Cobra_Commander Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 Not sure if you are on here, but whoever was climbing Winter Delight last weekend needs to chill out with the chalk. I'm usually pretty much a live and let live kinda guy but this was disgusting. I'm not sure I actually touched the rock. It was cool and windy all weekend. You didn't even need it. It makes the place look like crap. I'm starting to think bolts, even far-apart bolts attract this stupidity, as everything else is pretty clean. Also, watch for a sizeable wasp nest to climber's right on 1st pitch of dod's. There is also a grip of poison oak on the wall on blownout direct. If you throw your rope to rap off the anchor it will land in it, guaranteed. It is easily avoided climbing the route though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 a bolted route, lets do it. maybe some of this white power will help my send. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 Not sure if you are on here, but whoever was climbing Winter Delight last weekend needs to chill out with the chalk. I'm usually pretty much a live and let live kinda guy but this was disgusting. I'm not sure I actually touched the rock. It was cool and windy all weekend. You didn't even need it. It makes the place look like crap. I'm starting to think bolts, even far-apart bolts attract this stupidity, as everything else is pretty clean. Also, watch for a sizeable wasp nest to climber's right on 1st pitch of dod's. There is also a grip of poison oak on the wall on blownout direct. If you throw your rope to rap off the anchor it will land in it, guaranteed. It is easily avoided climbing the route though. Joesph? zat you? Gotta agree, who likes breathing others dust ? (Except I had sweat running off my forehead out there last weekend, hmmm, might be an indicator to get in shape. Maybe I won't be falling off these routes if I do that eh?) Uhhh, hold that thought Pink. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted August 1, 2007 Author Share Posted August 1, 2007 haha, yeah I'm not totally opposed to chalk like Joseph. I believe it has its place and I use plenty of it in places. Just not on a 5.10 juggy clip-up in cold weather. Bill, that last photo could easily represent the amount of chalk on that thing right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 haha, yeah I'm not totally opposed to chalk like Joseph. I believe it has its place and I use plenty of it in places. Just not on a 5.10 juggy clip-up in cold weather. Bill, that last photo could easily represent the amount of chalk on that thing right now. What are you calling a "5.10 juggy clip-up"? Clip up yes.....but juggy? I dont think so. That climb sucks, and has a retarded bolt job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted August 1, 2007 Author Share Posted August 1, 2007 The first moves off the ground have some character, but after that it is full on jugs (for beacon). I used to think the first bolt was poorly placed, but now I think it's perfectly placed. Just when you start thinking things aren't so cool and your belayer starts throwing packs over rocks, there's the first bolt, just within reach. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 Maybe I am a wimp......but when I lead that climb....I place 5 pieces of gear on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted August 1, 2007 Author Share Posted August 1, 2007 I don't consider that wimpy or otherwise. Everyone has to choose for themselves what's an acceptable risk. Certainly, I'd feel pretty dumb getting injured on a "sport climb". It's amusing to watch people try to stuff a camalot in that flaring jam at the start though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 I'm not totally opposed to chalk either - in the Valley, in the sun? Chalk. On Beacon in the sun on days over 85? Chalk. But hell, no one needs an ounce per pitch. In general on most days, and especially on cool days, Beacon needs no chalk. And when I do use chalk out there I use gray stuff that's available which works absolutely fine. And if you are leaving a rabbit trail of pure white, thick, full hand and fingerprints all over the place you are way, way over the top and kidding only yourself that you need anywhere remotely near that much. Folks might at least consider taking a day and climbing without the stuff or cutting way, way back on it and see how they do - you might just be surprised how well you do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 i use ky jelly...keeps things interesting and slick... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 It's amusing to watch people try to stuff a camalot in that flaring jam at the start though. Hahahaha.....I have done that! I blue Camelot fits reasonably well there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 i use ky jelly...keeps things interesting and slick... Didn't you work on City Park a few years back? _______________________________________________________________ I remember watching, with Joseph, some n00b Euro chick on the first pitch of SE corner. It was late in the day and we'd just got off something I think. She had probably dipped massive white 5 or 6 times as she worked out the first 3-4 moves...off the ground. JH didn't say a word to her, just let her climb in peace. Later, after she had finally made it up over the 5.5 crux much higher, and gotten stuck on the next crux pitch on the 5.7: when the yelling back and forth started between the leader who couldn't hear and the climber who couldn't make the moves, even with extra chalk, JH soloed over from snag ledge and pointed out the holds and moves. Such a gentleman. BTW, great catch Saturday Joseph, if I didn't say so earlier, thanks for both catching me, and not saying anything to me about chalk (course I have an eco ball and it's pretty minimal, but I was following a chalk trail). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 BTW, great catch Saturday Joseph, if I didn't say so earlier, thanks for both catching me What did you fall on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 (edited) I don't believe RuMR was involved with crack greasing, as I know most of the players. I might add that there is mutual respect between crack greasers and pig riggers. Edited August 1, 2007 by Feck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 BTW, great catch Saturday Joseph, if I didn't say so earlier, thanks for both catching me What did you fall on? I'm such a weak old pussy that I refuse to answer for fear of embarrassment from my peers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 Course, I'm not a peer of Pope, as he has said on the spray thread: so here it is ([font:Arial]shhhh......last move of blownout)[/font] Ohhh, I was sweatin...and chalkin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 Dont worry Bill.....your "peers" will not convict you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knottygirl Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 so it wasn't me, I swear!....but I wonder if you guys have any tips; I have extramly clamy hands....even in cold weather (in fact it may worse in cold weather). I have to use chalk other wise I totally greaze off the holds. Is there anything I can do? I seriously leave sweaty puddles on basalt or on gym holds...granite at least absorbs it. Oh and its not nerves cuz I am consistantly greazy on 5.6-5.12's! Grose! right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 My advice.....keep using chalk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
high_on_rock Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 I find the need for chalk a rare occaision, so have gotten in the habit of never having it with me. Smith is the only place that I feel I ever need it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
high_on_rock Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 Won't tell you how much your post turns me on; but if nothing else just using rock colored chalk at least leaves less of a trail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted August 1, 2007 Author Share Posted August 1, 2007 The fact that your hands can start sweating watching someone on a tough lead tells you that it is a mental game. Chalk's great as long as you are aware of using it, and know when it will actually help and when you're just using it as a delay tactic before committing to some moves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 I need chalk when ever I get scarred…..which is every climb…..remember, I am a wimp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 Not sure if you are on here, but whoever was climbing Winter Delight last weekend needs to chill out with the chalk. I'm usually pretty much a live and let live kinda guy but this was disgusting. I'm not sure I actually touched the rock. It was cool and windy all weekend. You didn't even need it. It makes the place look like crap. I'm starting to think bolts, even far-apart bolts attract this stupidity, as everything else is pretty clean. Also, watch for a sizeable wasp nest to climber's right on 1st pitch of dod's. There is also a grip of poison oak on the wall on blownout direct. If you throw your rope to rap off the anchor it will land in it, guaranteed. It is easily avoided climbing the route though. Joesph? zat you? Gotta agree, who likes breathing others dust ? (Except I had sweat running off my forehead out there last weekend, hmmm, might be an indicator to get in shape. Maybe I won't be falling off these routes if I do that eh?) Uhhh, hold that thought Pink. that shit just makes me horny and depressed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 that shit just makes me horny and depressed. Not me. In fact the opposite. Some of my very best, happiest moments was hanging out with some great Italian Fellas who were into importing on a very large scale. *Cough*, *cough*, uhhh, back when it was, well, if not legal, at least very socially acceptable. Damn, those was the good times. Definitely goodfellas. Supurb guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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