[TR] Big Four - The Mule 7/14/2007

[Off_White]

Trip: Big Four - The Mule

 

Date: 7/14/2007

 

Trip Report:

The Mule is a 5 pitch route at the base of Big Four, just to the right of the Ice Caves. Late Saturday afternoon DJ Dirty Ernie and I wandered up to do this route, a perfect shady choice for a hot day. I'm going to be a little exhaustive in the description, since it's not posted elsewhere here and isn't in any guidebook. All belays are fixed. Expect well spaced bolts and moderate runouts on this ground up route.

 

route photo courtesy of Mark Hanna

 

Pitch 1 starts right of the huge corner, right on the stepped arete forming a smaller right arching corner. A bit of pine needle accumulation coupled with wet shoes from negotiating the (minimal) moat make the 5.10a crux an attention grabber. A mixture of five bolts and some gear lead up past an overlap to a belay in a depression. A tricam that's maybe a couple sizes larger than Mr. Red would handily protect the last step, a #2 Friend just didn't cut it in the pocket.

 

pitch 1 start

 

Pitch 2 heads more or less straight up, runout delicate face climbing with some pockets and such, passing 4 bolts, a couple TCU placements, and a fair sized overlap. The rock is a layered combination of conglomerate that has been sheared smooth by glacial action, sort of like a terrazzo floor, and a dense fine grained sandstone. A little bit of honest 5.9 gains a perfect square edged ledge, directly under the looming 20 foot roof.

 

 

 

Pitch 3 finds you moving the belay to the right, easily heading out the cedar tree covered ledge. almost cave like with the roof above. Everything changes as you emerge from under the roof and out onto spacious white ledges. Set up a gear belay near the base of the 20' long left facing dihedral. The pitch wanders up, following discontinuous cracks and bulges. There are a lot of options, just follow your nose seeking the cleanest rock and best protection opportunities. As you get on up the pitch, keep an eye on the stacked series of bushy right facing dihedrals. Towards the top of them is a relatively obvious cleaned up set of blocky steps, these lead to the next anchor. We missed this of course, and went up a good 220' to a big ledge and had to backtrack to the correct anchor. This pitch is 5.7 or 5.8 on good rock.

 

At this point the lateness of the day forced a retreat and we began rapping. The route description for the next two pitches comes courtesy of Mark Hanna:

 

Pitch Four-150'

Traverse 100' back left on third class ledges to find a steep start to the next slab section. Prominent and troublesome cedar tree corner can be overcome with a few monkey moves and a generous sense of humor. Step left at a small ledge to reach a blind hold on the slab. Several bolts and interesting face moves (5.7-8) lead up and toward the edge of the chasm. Belay at 2 bolt ledge.

 

Pitch Five- 155'

Ascend nice jam cracks (5.6-7) for nearly a full rope length. Dark slot is about 15 feet left. op out on a giant bench w/ 2 bolt belay.

 

Descent Notes: Third anchor was two 3/8 bolts connected with a fat swaged wire, a thin bit of perlon with a small link provided a back up to the Rapide link on the bottom hanger. Second anchor is a pair of 3/8 rap hangers, no problems. First anchor is one rap hanger and one regular 3/8 bolt. We removed the parachute cord backup from the upper bolt and substituted a piece of tied 1" tube. A good Samaritan would bring up an 18" chain/rapide set up to make this anchor more permanent.

 

This was a fun outing, and after maybe 15 feet of somewhat dirty climbing at the base (wet shoes were a bigger problem) the rock was all very clean and solid. More people should go do this route, it's a worthy destination. Yes, there are more possible lines here too.

 

Gear Notes:

Med rack, tiny tcus to 3", slings to reduce drag, 50 M ropes (2)(doubles useful)

 

Approach Notes:

Take the cush Ice Caves trail at Big Four. The washed out bridge has a plush log crossing right where the bridge used to be. Only a little more difficult than the approach to Index Lower Town Wall. A stick might aid your tennis shoe ascent of the snow cone at the base if the snow is hard.

[mattp]

On one occasion, a hiker at the Ice Caves became very upset about climbers being on that route. He felt that their presence there placed the hikers in danger due to the possibility that the climbers might dislodge rocks from the route.

 

If looking for something in the shade, check out the Tower One Route. If you bash your way through the ferns and crawl up some steep moss to find the start of it, the first five pitches make an excellent climb.

 

thread

[chucK]

Hey nice beta/TR there OFF!

 

This summer would probably be a good time to knock that one off, being as the bridge is out. When the basin is filled with the usual massive amounts of sight-seers, some climbers up above might cause some unwanted commotion.

 

I was there with family and friends playing around on the snow one crowded summer weekend. At one point this ranger came out and ordered everybody off of the snow. He was telling us it was an avalanche zone. People slow to comply were threatened with citations. I would bet a couple of climbers heading right up above the masses would really cause consternation with Mr. Ranger.

 

Our trip was before the caves opened up, but I'll bet once those babies appear, the rangers really have their hands full keeping people out of the those. At that point the rangers would probably be even more unappreciative of climbers setting a "poor example".

 

If you had the time, you could add the first 5 or so high-quality pitches of the Tower 1 route to your day, though that might be a bit wet at present.

 

 

[Off_White]

Even with the bridge out we saw a good 30 people up there, but experienced no hand wringing, rangers or otherwise. I hadn't heard yet that the Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest had banned rock climbing and walking on snow.

 

Maybe one should add Richard Noggin to your gear for this route, leave him to be your PR manager at the base.

[mattp]

In the case off The Mule, Off, I don't think it is a matter of legality. Of course there is no ban on rock climbing or walking on snow. However, that doesn't mean that we should always "exercise our rights."

 

As it is so close to such a tourist destination, it is easy to see how your mere presence on The Mule might cause consternation and, all things considered, it would probably be a good thing if that route did not become popular. Maybe the rangers or the picnic-ers have no right to get upset (though maybe they actually do), but either way it is predictable that they might. There may be no law against top-roping at the Washington Pass overlook, either, but the rangers do not want you to do this.

[spicoli11]

Isn't this coming from the guy who was hanging his ropes over the fremont bridge? Nice TR and thanks for the info!!

[mattp]

That's kind of my point, Spicoli. I bet there is no specific law banning hanging a rope off a bridge, either. But that doesn't mean it is a good idea. I'm not down on that route - in fact I bet it is pretty good - but I think it would likely be problematic if it were to become popular.

[rob]

wtf is the problem? Are you saying nobody should climb that route because it might upset a hiker? Or are you saying that nobody should TR it so it doesn't become popular? What are you saying?

 

Damn the man. Nice TR, sounds like fun!

 

Edited July 18, 2007 by robmcdan

[hanman]

I would like to say that only once did I get some harrassing by one overly vocal fellow. Many folks told me on the way out on several occasions that they enjoyed watching our progress through the day. That being said, weekdays are the best up there. I do think the Tower is a better route all things considered.

 

MH

[mattp]

Do as you wish, everybody. In my opinion it is a good idea to keep a low profile around other user groups and I believe that this one could become a hot-button with the Forest Service.

 

Obviously, many tourists will enjoy seeing climbers on the route; others will not. Some may fear their kids will try to follow, and others may fear rockfall. The ranger who is trying to keep folks off the snowfield certainly won't be happy to see you head up there - whether he has a right to disallow it or not.

 

All I'm saying is that, given a choice between a climb that is immediately adjacent to and in full view of a picnic area and one that is not - I'd give preference to climbing the one that is not (other things being equal). Hanman's suggestion that weekdays or other "off hours" might be preferable is sound - in my opinion.

[tvashtarkatena]

Intwesting TR. I had now idea anything this groovy was to be found in that area. Still, it's gonna be hard to climb there....

 

Must

 

Not

 

Trundle