Simul-Climb rope length

[Rainier_Wolfscastle]

I am just curious what length rope other climbers are using for simul-climbing. I was considering using a 30m line on long easy lines that have a walk off. I did a 1500 ft long 5.6 in the Winds last year with a 50m rope, and wanted to trim the weight since it is a 16 mile walk to get there. Obviously, you can't rap as far if you had to retreat, but once I was a third of the way up the route, I wouldn't have enough gear to retreat on a 50m rope anyway. Any thoughts? My wife was also complaining about the distance between us on the 50m rope. She wanted to be within complaining distance at all times. Maybe I will stick with the 50m.

[willstrickland]

Since I don't have any short ropes, and by the time I cut them up I wouldn't lead on them, I just use whatever I have. Shorten the length for the simul-sections with any number of methods...Kiwi coil, etc. I don't feel like it matters much except from a communication and rope drag standpoint.

You will likely have to carry a slightly larger rack to keep a sufficient number of pieces between you on a shorter rope, so the weight tradeoff might not be a big deal...especially if you're talking 50m 10.5 compared to 30m 10.5, I'd guess you save 3lbs of rope weight.

[erik]

this sounz generic....but it all depends....i got a ropes at lotsa lengths.......felxabilty is the key......

also consider possible rappels either on route or on descent.....

though i am inclinded to sport a 50m most times in the mtns....give you more rap anochors...and when that is case remember to bring your buddies rope...

[Rodchester]

Wolfie:

What route were you on in the Winds?

[specialed]

Get a 50m 8mm double it up and use it as a twin rope. Its light, your wife will be close enough to complain and you can rap 25m.

[goatboy]

Here's my preferred method:

Take a 50 (or even 60!) meter skinny rope (like a 8.5 or so) and double it.

Have the leader tie into both ends.

Have the follower clip into a figure-eight on a bight using two locking biners.

This way, the leader can alternate clips on the double rope system and minimize rope drag.

Also, it kees the two climbers close enough to communicate, and not too far apart for rope drag.

This system works really well -- we used it last summer on Sharkfin Tower, N Ridge of Stuart, Prussik Peak W Ridge, and a route in Red Rocks (Frogland) just last week.

Anyone else use this system?

[hasbeen]

I do. It works great, I think.

[sayjay]

okay, maybe i'm a total knucklehead, because no one else seems to be thinking along these lines. so i'll throw it out there and y'all can tell me if i'm just being a dork.

i'll preface this by saying that i only have 55m ropes and won't be cutting any of them up...so when i have simulclimbed i've set up like i would with two people on a rope on a glacier -- fold rope into 3rds, so one person is at 1/3 and the other at 2/3 of the way along the rope and each person carries 1/3 of the rope with them. my rationale is that if one person falls and gets hurt you have some rope to work with in a rescue.

though i have to say i like the idea of doubling the rope for alternate clipping/drag-reduction...

oh, and i also think a full rope length is good to have w/ you for raps. having only 30' of rope to rap w/ could suck, depending on where you are.

[specialed]

The advantage to using one skinny rope doubled as opposed to the "glacier" approach is that its quick and easy which is usually the goal when simul-climbing. Coiling up slack and measuring rope takes too much time, even if you get a little bit of added safety.

[freeclimb9]

If you want a shorter rope, some manufacturers will sell off short pieces at great prices. If you just want to climb closer together, you can always coil part of the ends (or just one end), and tie in short.

If I'm simul-climbing on harder terrain, I prefer more rope between my partner and myself to minimize the weight I'd feel if my partner fell. This strategy also gives the leader a little more stretch to reach a stance when the second isn't moving as fast. I've done this with ropes of 50, 55 and 60 meters, single and double.

[rayborbon]

I have used 30 M 9 mil. Worked great!

[Rainier_Wolfscastle]

Thanks for the replies. The original idea behind the 30m is to save weight on long approach. Doubled rope is a good technique to keep second climber close, but defeats the original purpose of saving weight. Rapping is not really an option on this route once you are 1/3 the way up anyway, since the route is 1500 feet long and there is no fixed gear. Someone asked what the route was. It's the North Arete on Ellingwood Peak. It's on e of the NA 50 classics. Fun route.