freeclimb9 Posted March 5, 2002 Posted March 5, 2002 I'm contemplating a do-everything shoe for summer alpine scramble climbs. If I could use a shoe for walking and climbing, that would keep my pack small and light. La Sportiva fits my feet well; does the Mega Dru work okay as a walking shoe? Do the 5.10 shoes like the Guide Almighty, Calfornian, or Mountian Master climb well? How about offerings from other manufacturers like Scarpa, Boreal, Garmont, others? Quote
erik Posted March 5, 2002 Posted March 5, 2002 i've tried the lot and as far as they go all work fairly well..... the best climbers/runners were the mtn masters though with wearing them out every couple months i have given up, since i am not game on stealing from rei by returning something that i have worn out...guide all might has a real soft sole... the garmont clib pretty well, but are too stiff to really hike in, though i noticed that have a new entry into the everything shoe market now and it looks a little more sporty..... the sportiva shoes all suck for walking in....cept for their hiking approach shoes...... havent really ttied anything else, but if you save them only for climbing, the mtn master should be your shoe of choice.. Quote
Rodchester Posted March 5, 2002 Posted March 5, 2002 I have a pair of the 5.10 Mountain Masters and I love them. They hike well and climb well too. I have made them last by ONLY using them for alpine climbs. If you use most any shoe that climbs well for other purposes, I think they will wear out quickly. Any lightweight shoe (non-boot), used as a true climbing and approach shoe, will wear out quicker than most boots. So I say the 5.10 Mountain Master. Quote
Matt Posted March 5, 2002 Posted March 5, 2002 I have the 5.10 Mountain Masters too. They are great for soloing up the Northern Slabs at Index, hiking the Granite Sidewalk on Blueberry Hill, trail running at Smith Rocks when your finger tips are too shredded to climb, and even walking the dog in the rain. I've had mine for two years and do everything in them. Very comfy and durable. Don't wear them in your mother's kitchen or you'll leave little black marks all over the floor and don't think you look cool in them because they are ugly. If some cute little chica is talking to you when you're wearing your Mtn Masters then you know you've got something goin' on 'cause it ain't those dorky shoes that's making her smile and flip her hair in that way-- well you know the way. [ 03-05-2002: Message edited by: Matt ] Quote
willstrickland Posted March 5, 2002 Posted March 5, 2002 I've got some Kaukulator Drus, same shoe as the Mega Dru aside from cosmetics. You definitely do not want to walk long distances or do hikes in these. I use them for long alpine rock stuff where there's lots of easy climbing and nothing over 5.8 or so. They climb well and feel alot better on dirty ledges, patches of snow, and just standing around than regular rock shoes. I've got a pair of Garmont sticky weekends, they edge ok, but otherwise don't climb well, and the heel section is kinda narrow/high making them not that hot for hiking. I got mine for $30 though with the intention of standing in aiders in them most of the time. I've seen too many pairs of sportiva Boulders falling apart to bother with them.I tried out some Kayland Spiders, and they seem to be the bomb. Not a super comfortable shoe to hike in due to the thin sole, but comfy enough, and they'll climb better than anything marketed as an approach shoe. Mtn Masters are really comfy for my feet, but I've got too damn many pairs of shoes to justify shelling out for them. If you're looking for one shoe to hike-in and scramble up to 4th class I'd take the Mtn Master. If you intend to hike-in and climb pitches up to 5.8, I'd take the Kayland. SKip the Garmonts, skip the Sportiva Hypers, skip the Drus, give the Boulders a look(lots of people seem to love them). I've heard great things about the 5.10 Guide almighty as well, but have never been able to find a pair around, they're high tops, which might be cool for hiking, and supposedly climb very well. Quote
Dru Posted March 5, 2002 Posted March 5, 2002 Mtn Master is real good for, say, the East Ridge of Rexford, w. ridge of Prusik or climbs of that nature. Personally i would take rock shoes on Slesse NE buttress but some better climbers do the whole thing in mtn masters. La Sportiva Hyper is a nice heavier shoe (more support)- i wouldn't want to carry a heavy pack doing an approach hike with only my mtn masters on. i got a foot injury once hiking into the cathedral lakes area with an 80-lb pack and just a pair of hitecs for footwear. Mtn Master does wear out sole real quick if you walk around downtown, run, dance in clubs, etc. in them so as has been said just take them climbing. Also if you go by the Five.Ten factory in Redlands, CA you can get cosmetic seconds for cheap every friday. Quote
Dru Posted March 5, 2002 Posted March 5, 2002 quote: Originally posted by freeclimb9: La Sportiva fits my feet well; does the Mega Dru work okay as a walking shoe? I never seen them or tried them on but with a name like that I want a pair NOW!!! Quote
freeclimb9 Posted March 5, 2002 Author Posted March 5, 2002 quote: Originally posted by willstrickland: I tried out some Kayland Spiders, and they seem to be the bomb. From where are the Kayland Spiders sold? Their website, www.kayland.com, isn't helpful in finding dealers. Quote
Bronco Posted March 5, 2002 Posted March 5, 2002 here is my new approach boots. They kick ass!! Actually I am using some NB trail runners which work fine for up to 4th class. Hell - those danners would work fine for 4th class crap! here is the link http://www.hoffmanboots.com/popup/danner_rain_forest_specs.htm [ 03-05-2002: Message edited by: Bronco ] Quote
Matt_Anderson Posted March 5, 2002 Posted March 5, 2002 My experience with 5.10 is that they make shoes that stick well and climb well, but fall apart when someone gives them a harsh glare. They also, as a general rule, give the crappiest support for your instep of just about anything I've ever felt. That said, if you don't have arch support issues and don't mind shelling out a bunch of money every time they come apart, the rubber is great and they're nice to climb in. Matt Quote
freeclimb9 Posted March 6, 2002 Author Posted March 6, 2002 Thanks for all the comments. Now for the great adventure of shopping! Quote
IceIceBaby Posted March 6, 2002 Posted March 6, 2002 Im using the guide almighty in here (the Shawanagunks) for anythings from approach to 5.9 and its great but don’t expect much on the durability issue you will probably go through two pairs a season [ 03-06-2002: Message edited by: IceIceBaby ] Quote
texplorer Posted March 6, 2002 Posted March 6, 2002 I have la sportiva boulders. They are now adorned with duck tape to match my entire wardrobe of outdoor gear. Don't buy them unless you can afford a new pair every 4 months Quote
Charlie Posted March 6, 2002 Posted March 6, 2002 One more for the mountain masters. I'm on my 2nd pair in 2 years and probably ready fo another- They are the most comfortable hiking shoe I've ever worn- I took them on many alpine climbs last summer- I even have a pair of crampons that fit them. Quote
Rafael_H Posted March 7, 2002 Posted March 7, 2002 quote: Originally posted by freeclimb9: From where are the Kayland Spiders sold? Their website, www.kayland.com, isn't helpful in finding dealers. Check out the Feathered Friends in Seattle or call them. They carried the shoe last year, I didn't pay attention to their current display. Quote
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