BlackSheep Posted May 24, 2007 Share Posted May 24, 2007 (edited) Ok, so I'm heading down for liberty ridge next week. I had been planning on bringing a mountain axe and an ice tool each, my thought was that if pure ice conditions were encountered then the leader could take both tools and the second would have to sketch along with two axes... or lower the tools down. The most recent post on the route conditions blog mentions quite a bit of ice and not so much the deep early season snow, and I'm considering bringing both tools per person. anyone have any thoughts on this? does everyone bring two tools on this route? Thanks! Edited May 24, 2007 by BlackSheep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AOC Posted May 24, 2007 Share Posted May 24, 2007 Two tools is overkill IMO. The route is just not that steep. Take a moutaineering axe and one tool. The Black Pyramid barely approaches WI 2. While the bergshrund crossing above can involve steeper terrain, it's short. If necessary, the leader can climb with a borrowed tool and then lower both tools to the second. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirwoofalot Posted May 24, 2007 Share Posted May 24, 2007 Win, lose, or draw I wan to see your TR with pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted May 24, 2007 Share Posted May 24, 2007 I climbed it mid july 11 years ago and it was fairly icy in spots. I used a 65 cm axe and a 50 cm north wall hammer. The combo was just about perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScaredSilly Posted May 24, 2007 Share Posted May 24, 2007 Ditto - Axe and a tool. I even schlep my ski poles up with me which was great for the other crap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbconlin Posted May 25, 2007 Share Posted May 25, 2007 Me too, one tool, one axe, one ski pole (collapsible), was perfect, although later in the season. My partner had two tools and had no complaints, either. I don't think it really matters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skatan Posted May 25, 2007 Share Posted May 25, 2007 (edited) Did LR last May with 1-venom and 1-cobra, 2 venoms would be lighter and would work out great for LR. We climbed from thumb unroped until the shrund then simul to top. It's a great route! Edited May 25, 2007 by Skatan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lowlander Posted May 26, 2007 Share Posted May 26, 2007 Did Liberty Ridge last may with one axe and one tool. Climbed from 7200 to the base of the black pyramid unroped then simulclimbed to the top, down the emmons, and over st. elmo's. I would avoid the carry over. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted May 28, 2007 Share Posted May 28, 2007 It will depend on your French technique familiarity. I've seen a range from people bent over frontpointing with two ice tools and placing ice screws to skilled french techniqe and a walking axe. Defintely leave the aluminum crampons at home and bring steel ones though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackSheep Posted May 28, 2007 Author Share Posted May 28, 2007 thanks for all the input guys, it confirmed what I was thinking we are working off the post wedding hangovers and heading up there today. looks like it will be good bivy sack weather. I'll post a TR next week yep going with axe and tool. cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reinhart Posted May 30, 2007 Share Posted May 30, 2007 I was just up there and summitted via Liberty Ridge on Memorial Day. I used a 70 cm axe and a 50 cm tool. That worked well for me and I thought it was the perfect combination. Whoever leads the ice though will need two ice tools. Here's a picture of the ice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ishmael Posted May 30, 2007 Share Posted May 30, 2007 I climbed it in July one year and had two tools which was nice. But then again, I suck at the French thing...... very cool climb.... should go back some day... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mountainstyle Posted May 31, 2007 Share Posted May 31, 2007 Out of curiosity, where did you approach from? I did Lib Ridge last July, put in at White River. I haven't been up to Rainier NP since all of the storms, looking to do a couple of routes near the end of June and trying to suss out some options. We are either looking to spend a week on Hood doing some North side routes, maybe Eliot Glacier Headwall or spend a week on Rainier, undecided on route(s) at this point. Depends on what is in. Any beta? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.