Liberty ridge - gear question

[BlackSheep]

Ok, so I'm heading down for liberty ridge next week. I had been planning on bringing a mountain axe and an ice tool each, my thought was that if pure ice conditions were encountered then the leader could take both tools and the second would have to sketch along with two axes... or lower the tools down.

 

The most recent post on the route conditions blog mentions quite a bit of ice and not so much the deep early season snow, and I'm considering bringing both tools per person.

anyone have any thoughts on this? does everyone bring two tools on this route?

 

Thanks!

Edited May 24, 2007 by BlackSheep

[AOC]

Two tools is overkill IMO. The route is just not that steep. Take a moutaineering axe and one tool. The Black Pyramid barely approaches WI 2. While the bergshrund crossing above can involve steeper terrain, it's short. If necessary, the leader can climb with a borrowed tool and then lower both tools to the second.

[sirwoofalot]

Win, lose, or draw I wan to see your TR with pics.

[DPS]

I climbed it mid july 11 years ago and it was fairly icy in spots. I used a 65 cm axe and a 50 cm north wall hammer. The combo was just about perfect.

[ScaredSilly]

Ditto - Axe and a tool. I even schlep my ski poles up with me which was great for the other crap.

[dbconlin]

Me too, one tool, one axe, one ski pole (collapsible), was perfect, although later in the season. My partner had two tools and had no complaints, either. I don't think it really matters.

[Skatan]

Did LR last May with 1-venom and 1-cobra, 2 venoms would be lighter and would work out great for LR. We climbed from thumb unroped until the shrund then simul to top. It's a great route!

Edited May 25, 2007 by Skatan

[Lowlander]

Did Liberty Ridge last may with one axe and one tool. Climbed from 7200 to the base of the black pyramid unroped then simulclimbed to the top, down the emmons, and over st. elmo's. I would avoid the carry over. Good luck.

[Jens]

It will depend on your French technique familiarity.

I've seen a range from people bent over frontpointing with two ice tools and placing ice screws to skilled french techniqe and a walking axe. Defintely leave the aluminum crampons at home and bring steel ones though.

[BlackSheep]

thanks for all the input guys, it confirmed what I was thinking

we are working off the post wedding hangovers and heading up there today.

looks like it will be good bivy sack weather.

I'll post a TR next week

 

yep going with axe and tool.

cheers!

[Reinhart]

I was just up there and summitted via Liberty Ridge on Memorial Day. I used a 70 cm axe and a 50 cm tool. That worked well for me and I thought it was the perfect combination. Whoever leads the ice though will need two ice tools. Here's a picture of the ice.

[Ishmael]

I climbed it in July one year and had two tools which was nice. But then again, I suck at the French thing...... very cool climb.... should go back some day...

[Mountainstyle]

Out of curiosity, where did you approach from? I did Lib Ridge last July, put in at White River. I haven't been up to Rainier NP since all of the storms, looking to do a couple of routes near the end of June and trying to suss out some options. We are either looking to spend a week on Hood doing some North side routes, maybe Eliot Glacier Headwall or spend a week on Rainier, undecided on route(s) at this point. Depends on what is in. Any beta?