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Posted (edited)

me thinks i better go kick the mailman's ass now...the only indication they are mine is that they are all uniformly tiny little guys (and gal)...they are below the 5 percentile...

Edited by RuMR
Posted
So RU.....what is your vote for the worst climb?

 

i dunno...i've pretty much liked every climb i've done...sure, i've been frustrated, but i don't hold that against the routes...

Posted

I had a bad time on The Peanut on the Charlie Brown Apron up the Yosemite Falls Trail. Reading the unusual rock for holds after a summer on the white granite was tough, the bolts were far apart, and every damned one was a 1/4 spinner that was halfway out of the rock. The belay bolts were just as bad too, and the hangers packed with rotten faded tat. I have no idea if anyone has upgraded the hardware since that long ago day, rumor has it that it's not even in guidebooks anymore, something to do with the proximity to the trail.

 

tom higgins photo:

the_peanut,_yosemite.jpg

 

 

Posted

I climbed the chimney behind the pillar that later got pushed over at Vantage. That was pretty much teh worst climb ever. I think I may have killed someone's dog throwing down large sharp holds from high on the route.

 

A lot of the climbs that I have done that had loose rock or whatever I ended up really enjoying having climbed even if I didn't enjoy climbing them too much at the time I was doing it. Adventure is fun - but it's not really what I want on a one pitch crag climb.

 

There are some climbs that are pretty bad climbs if you are roped up and trundling on a partner, that can be much more enjoyable solo.

 

 

Posted

Loose rock is killer if you're in a trundle approved zone.

 

 

This one time, at bandcamp, we rapelled this little fire on Redoubt (or maybe Bear?), anyway we hit this little 20'x50' flat knob atop what appeared to be about 1000' (according to topo map) of vertical relief below it. No trails in teh drainage below (according to topo map). Too steep to fight fire, we trundled until there was no more movable stones and we had 3 broken shovels.

 

Freefalls of like 500' and then mountain shaking explosions.

Posted
Loose rock is killer if you're in a trundle approved zone.

 

 

This one time, at bandcamp, we rapelled this little fire on Redoubt (or maybe Bear?), anyway we hit this little 20'x50' flat knob atop what appeared to be about 1000' (according to topo map) of vertical relief below it. No trails in teh drainage below (according to topo map). Too steep to fight fire, we trundled until there was no more movable stones and we had 3 broken shovels.

 

Freefalls of like 500' and then mountain shaking explosions.

 

Trunding is very cool....I agree.....I have trundled a shit ton of rock and a couple of boulder the size of small cars.....that was cool.

Posted
I climbed the chimney behind the pillar that later got pushed over at Vantage. That was pretty much teh worst climb ever. I think I may have killed someone's dog throwing down large sharp holds from high on the route.

 

A lot of the climbs that I have done that had loose rock or whatever I ended up really enjoying having climbed even if I didn't enjoy climbing them too much at the time I was doing it. Adventure is fun - but it's not really what I want on a one pitch crag climb.

 

There are some climbs that are pretty bad climbs if you are roped up and trundling on a partner, that can be much more enjoyable solo.

 

 

 

 

Yeah, I've had fun on "bad climbs".

 

I was on the Brothers a couple years ago when a water-mellon sized rock came within three feet of smashing my face and killing two of my buddies. The whole rest of the day we were jittered as hell, but in the end we were so stoked to be alive that it turned out to be one of my most memorable experiences. And there wasn't even anything technical about it - just scrambling.

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