erik Posted March 27, 2003 Share Posted March 27, 2003 FREEKLIMB! BUT THE DISCUSSION IS JUST AS IMPORTANT! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 27, 2003 Share Posted March 27, 2003 my cordelette is full strength Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted March 27, 2003 Share Posted March 27, 2003 freak said: dude I havent use cordalette since it failed in a toprope situation, got cut over a not so sharp egde, basicaly it wore through after we had been toproping a really steep erratic basalt boulder with lots of little edges and stuff. nic I would never use a cordellette for a top rope anchor. While it is very strong, it is not very abrasion resistant. I always use 1" tubular webbing for top rope anchors. With top ropes at the crags, you don't care about weight anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted March 28, 2003 Share Posted March 28, 2003 Dru said: i just saw some anonymous person reading this thread... thought i would update it how many people have died from spectra cordellete breaking in the last year and a half? I did! Um. I got better! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beck Posted March 31, 2003 Share Posted March 31, 2003 About a month ago a million Mounties intermediate course takers were coming into the shop, Demanding a specific type of tech cord for cordalettes. They bought out the entire town, we called to check at REI and FF and they had experienced the same rush of mounties demanding said cordalette material. seems they had been given a handout stating this tech cord was the ONLY appropriate material for a cordalette. And that using one inch tubular was unacceptable. I feel sorry for all these people. Getting misinformed by the group they joined. Now, for the rest of their climbing career they will be using a less than perfect material for cordalettes, that needs to be retired more quickly, and also doesn't take knots well, and stiff to work with. The mounties have all sorts of this misinformation floating around in their various courses. The problem is it's taken as dogma. One instructor (not with the mounties) has his people coming in all the time, spouting off about "the only way to do things" and trying to get us to mount their ski bindings wrong, because the teacher said so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted March 31, 2003 Share Posted March 31, 2003 nothing wrong with cordalettes for the nth time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Attitude Posted March 31, 2003 Share Posted March 31, 2003 Beck said: About a month ago a million Mounties intermediate course takers were coming into the shop, Demanding a specific type of tech cord for cordalettes. They bought out the entire town, we called to check at REI and FF and they had experienced the same rush of mounties demanding said cordalette material. seems they had been given a handout stating this tech cord was the ONLY appropriate material for a cordalette. And that using one inch tubular was unacceptable. Oh gosh. This sounds like bullshit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geek_the_Greek Posted March 31, 2003 Share Posted March 31, 2003 This needs to be restated: how many people have died from spectra cordellete breaking in the last year and a half? Since 1999 (the year I bought ANAM for the first time), I don't think there have been any accidents caused by cordelettes failing. It just doesn't seem to be an issue. I guess I'm happy my cordelette is made of the Spectra/kevlar blend, the material that generally fared the best in the tests....not that I was really worried. I think I'm more worried about catching the factor 2 fall that might actually stress my gear to somewhere remotely close to the failure point (not getting hit by the falling climber, thereby rendering the belay useless, or getting strangled by the rope as it goes over my head, or ripping out the (heavily stressed) top pieces and cratering - if I'm the climber). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 Please drink a beer today to the memory of all the poor victims of broken cordelettes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 ohmygosh you're still using them? your luck will run out some day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtom Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 Please drink a beer today to the memory of all the poor victims of broken cordelettes And people who's rope failed because they marked the middle with a sharpie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
selkirk Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 More misinformation..... The mounties don't require any specific type of material for cordolettes, but do provide some info and numbers that they picked up somewhere regarding the performance of various materials (7mm perlon, 5.5 mm spectra, and 5.0 mm maxim tech chord). All the information really boils down to is the Perlon is the weakest at a straight pull, but is a more abrasion resistant, doesn't weaken under knots as much as the others, and doesn't weaken after repeated flexing as much. The Tech chord is initially the strongest but weakens more than the perlon after knotting, and is the weakens the most after repeated flexing, while the spectra is somewhere in the middle.... after that it's everyone's personal decision. It seems like most people choose the spectra.... i've actually gone to a webolette anyway, seems much less bulky and more than sufficiently strong. cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtnNomad Posted August 27, 2004 Share Posted August 27, 2004 The cordelete is one of the most versetile piecies of equipment I own. There are many climbing related uses for a cordelete whether you are using a 7mm or tech cord. Such as: Anchor constuction, Prussiks (self rescue, glacier travel, raising system...),Passing a knot on rappel or in a raising or lowering system, Improvised harness, Escaping the belay, Load transfer or backup, Daisy chain, Etriers short handline... Other things I have used my cordelete for are: Rutschblock cord, Teaching usefull or obscure knots, Rescue sled, Food hang, Clothesline, Forgotten skins. Obiviously after certain applications it would be retired or put to other uses like Tieing crap fom IKEA to the roof of the vehicle, Dog leash, Macramay (sp?), BDSM play and it is probably just enough rope to hang yourself with. Cordeletes Rock!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.