Leavenworth Suggestions

[Jason_Formo]

Hi, I searched the forums but couldn't find any suggestions on climbs in Leavenworth. I am looking for 5.8-5.9 introductory (trad/sport) climbs maybe some easy .10's if the ratings are like exit 38.

 

We are heading up this weekend for a couple days climbing and some camping, so any suggestions/tips on camping would be appreciated as well.

 

Thanks!

 

Jason

[jhamaker]

Standard or soft YDS ratings at 11worht. Definately not as soft as the Far Side.

 

Real rock, real belays, real descents, real flora, real ticks.

 

I'm guessing you want single pitch?

 

For a warm day of both sport and regular climbing in your range, try Pearly Gates.

 

Icicle Buttress has some easy longer rts (4pitches).

 

Knock yourself out.

[pope]

I think you'd enjoy the regular route on Careno Crag. Take your time to protect the crux first pitch. This climb is one of the warmer "long" routes.

 

The older, classic routes on Castle in the 5.7--5.9 range are spectacular but probably more like 5.8--5.10 when compared to Exit 38. At Castle I recommend Catapult to Logger's Ledge, followed by a climb of Jello Tower (S. Face or Damnation), then run to the summit on Midway Direct. A thrilling but challenging 5.8 is Canary (this catches sun earlier than other interesting 5.8 climbs on Castle such as Saints and Angel).

 

If damp weather forces you to the Pinnacles, check out Vertigo and Empire State.

[MCash]

Exit 38 5.8/5.9 feels about 11worth 5.7/5.8. I'd recommend these:

 

1. R&D on Icicle Buttress

2. Groundhog Day on Tumwater Buttress

3. Saber and Midway on Castle Rock

[mattp]

I’d second the recommendation of Castle Rock “moderates.” They are just about all good, but Midway and Canary are my favorites. (Midway was the first “modern” crag climb in Washington and in my opinion a Leavenworth “MUST DO” even more than the renowned Outer Space. However, with the exception of David Whitelaw’s “Weekend Rock,” the guidebooks do not show it right. Check out my topo at my recommended climbs. If you add the challenges of the South Face of Jello Tower for the first pitch, and “Midway Direct” for the finish, expect to find it pretty stout AND exciting for a 5.8 climb – this definitely aint Kansas-I-mean-Exit-38- both in terms of rating and ambiance.) Be careful if some old guy with grey hair tells you that Damnation is only 5.8.

 

For Icicle Creek, I like the “Regular Route” at Careno too, and there are a cluster of climbs in the 5.10 range nearby that are pretty good. However, I’d also look at the Pearly Gates, Peekaboo Tower (nearby "straight street" is good), and I’d have to say that Condomorpamine Addiction, along with some of the climbs on the way up there is not altogether a bad choice (some on this site will cry foul here, because CA is very heavily bolted but I think it is still a good climb). I have not climbed all the routes there, but I would favor these over the more traditional crags, Icicle Buttress and Givler's Dome (Givler's Crack is a fantastic easy crack climb, though).

 

If you head up to Snow Creek Wall, I’d seriously consider Orbit instead of Outer Space. It is at least as good (many think better) and slightly less crowded.

 

[Drederek]

I would heartily second Peekaboo Tower and the Duty dome as well. Keen Acres is a great place to get warmed up. Don't hike up to CA till you've done the 3 excellent routes up the middle of bathtub dome. The crags closer to the roads can get crowded (like clamshell or alphabet) but are worth checking out. Clems holler, retardant rock and the special spot all have some gems.

[smithisheaven]

Head 2 trundle dome. Has 4 or 5 nice climbs combo gear and bolts. Careno is good as well. Lots more in the Trundle dome area, underhill, sam hill, ski track cracks, dont forget arete, we skid and woof woof roof.

[genepires]

nobody mentioned the 8 mile rock area? maybe too obvious

 

givlers crack

 

 

if the 10's are too hard, you can still do several great moderates on careno crag by traversing along ledges at the belays.

[Telemack]

Alphabet Rock has Dogleg 8+ and Meatgrinder 10a.

 

-Several routes on R side of Icicle Buttress. On the far R side are Bumper Belay 10a and I Didn't Exhale 10c that I bolted 2 years ago and are not in guides. Start L, finish R for 5.8; anchors below Love Donut.

Edited April 28, 2007 by Telemack