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Posted

Trip: Vantage - Feathers - Various

 

Date: 4/14/2007

 

Trip Report:

So, I know this isn't the most original posting, but it might help people get through the week a little better. A crew from the Tacompton area headed East to Vantage for some drier weather and to get back on rock after a winter of plastic holds. Two days of solid weather, good climbing, and getting back into the mind set of leading ensued. There are loads of places to climb at Vantage, but we concentrated on the Feathers for the simple reason that they were closest to our beer stash.

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The conditions at Vantage are extreme, so Wayne made sure our Everest quality Wenzel was anchored right. Later on in the day (during a beer break), we watched a tent lift off in a gust and settle thirty feet away in some sage. Being nice, we returned the tent to its original position and staked it out. The gear inside must have been a mess and we realized that the owners, who left while we were climbing, must have thought someone rifled their stuff. So, if you're reading this, such was not the case.

 

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Here is Sonny attacking a 10b next to Don Coyote as a warm up.

 

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After getting in a few leads, including an awesome 5.9 and the far end of the Feathers, it was time for some beer back at the cars, the whole reason we went to the Feathers instead of the King Pins. There were some climbers drinking Steel Reserve as well. Steel Reserve? What, is PBR too expensive?

 

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After relaxing on a 5.7, Tom's head was sufficiently clear to try the 5.10a to the left of Don Coyote, his first attempt at leading a 10.

 

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The route is pretty much straight up.

 

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Tom cranked pretty hard, but couldn't pull the move to the chains due to Popeye arms. Considering it was his first lead at the grade, he rocked. Sonny set out to lead it and retrieve some gear. The was getting low on the horizon, making for some interesting lighting.

 

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Sonny getting ready to make the last move to the chains.

 

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Yeah, the Feathers have some scenic quality.

 

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The climbing ended and we returned to the cars for some dinner and beers in the increasing windy (and cold) campground.

 

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We managed to stay up late enough to see the sun go down and the stars come out, but not by much.

 

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In the morning, and by morning I mean when the sun actually got to us and brought some warmth back to us (i.e 9 am), we hit the rock again. There was a party climbing what we wanted to, so we stopped and watched the Steel Reserve drinker as he led a 5.4.

 

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We waited for them to finish, then followed them over to a 5.7 and watched Steel Reserve guy lead a 5.7.

 

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I had watched this dude back clip every single bolt the day before, but his friends must have finally straightened him out over night as he managed to avoid doing it on this 5.7.

 

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This moron had also Z-clipped his PAS the day before, but had figured out over night that letting it hang low wasn't the wisest of plans and had it slung tight in the morning.

 

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He hung out a foot away from the chains for about 5 minutes before finally stepping up on the huge platform below them. Maybe he was enjoying the view or something.

 

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Come to think of it, that red shirt looks a lot like my red shirt. The moron also seems to be wearing a helmet that looks just like mine and even has my name written across it. Must have stolen it in the night or something like that.

 

After a few more climbs we packed it up and headed back to Tacrackton, hopefully with all the winter rust polished off.

 

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Posted

Love Vantage in the spring and fall. It's gotta be one of the Northwest's saving graces (besides great beer and coffee).

Thanks for the great pics and witty commentary.

Skitchmo

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
Sonny climbs at Vantage sans helmet?? He got a deathwish or sumpin'??

 

No shit! Let's set ourselves up for brain trauma and sweat to death in a wool hat at the same time!

 

And who the fuck is this guy? It's like looking at a taller, better looking twin?

v4-7.jpg

 

  • 7 months later...
Posted
Oh, wow.

 

I thought I was the only one with 211 at the crags.

 

It works every time. And, it is even cheaper than the beast. What's not to love?

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