G-spotter Posted April 16, 2007 Posted April 16, 2007 even steven is mid 11 and i have very small fingers...not long enough...although comparable to sentry box seem fair? even steven is 10c Quote
RuMR Posted April 16, 2007 Posted April 16, 2007 (edited) I'm talking about even steven at index, you tool... Edited April 16, 2007 by RuMR Quote
AlpineK Posted April 16, 2007 Posted April 16, 2007 x38 5.7 = 4th class...dad belaying that way was ok... STFU dude I'm going to be happy to get out there. I need a little boost in ratings too. Quote
Peter_Puget Posted April 16, 2007 Author Posted April 16, 2007 (edited) How does it compare to Saccherer? or Mid Term? Seems no harder than Reeds p1 to me. Outer Limts p1 is way harder. Edited April 16, 2007 by Peter_Puget Quote
RuMR Posted April 16, 2007 Posted April 16, 2007 you'll be able to take a wheelchair up and down it... Quote
G-spotter Posted April 16, 2007 Posted April 16, 2007 I'm talking about even steven at index, you tool... We're talking about at the Pet (which was wet on Saturday BTW) not some crummy Index climb with the same name Quote
AlpineK Posted April 16, 2007 Posted April 16, 2007 you'll be able to take a wheelchair up and down it... Cool Quote
David Trippett Posted April 16, 2007 Posted April 16, 2007 Sounds good, not that far off then... but you'd know better than me. I think that's a pretty honestly graded list of routes compared with just about anywhere.... I've not climbed too much at Index....but those Squish grades are pretty close....within error anyway....if anything Index is a bit undergraded....even compared with the Valley and Josh....anyway.... Index rocks btw... Even Steven is Squish 10d, its at Pet Wall....are you thinking of Yorkshire Gripper? We're you hungover or was Caboose overhung? Quote
RuMR Posted April 16, 2007 Posted April 16, 2007 dru...you are a tool...anyway, the pet one feels right for the grade...actually, most of those pet wall routes feel spot on... Quote
Sherri Posted April 16, 2007 Posted April 16, 2007 you'll be able to take a wheelchair up and down it... But watch out for the guy using the okay-sign belay technique. skull Quote
G-spotter Posted April 16, 2007 Posted April 16, 2007 Even Steven is Squish 10d, its at Pet Wall.... It's ben 10c in every guide but McLane's latest and it isn't 10d now in reality, just in his odd grading system. Quote
David Trippett Posted April 16, 2007 Posted April 16, 2007 (edited) agreed, its better as a 10c, fits the crag better that way....but it got upgaded from consensus....just like pleasant pheasant got downgraded....either way its a great route some others to check out... all the 5.11s at Gobsmacking Wall Heat Wave & Friends Gone Surfin' Ron Zalko Workout Promised Land Theres an exit 38 here too!...its called Chekamus Edited April 16, 2007 by avitripp Quote
David Trippett Posted April 16, 2007 Posted April 16, 2007 Trivia: do you know what the 10a(5.8) crack below Sentry Box is called as a seperate lead? ....Tool Box:tup: Quote
G-spotter Posted April 16, 2007 Posted April 16, 2007 How can there by a consensus grade for Elastic Man without a consensus height and a consensus ape index? 11a if you can make the reach and 11c++ if you can't Quote
David Trippett Posted April 16, 2007 Posted April 16, 2007 whoops my bad I'm thinking of Plasant Pheasant! Quote
G-spotter Posted April 16, 2007 Posted April 16, 2007 PP was 11a on gear, 10d on bolts could be more accurate because you don't have to hang on as long to frig the nuts in. Quote
RuMR Posted April 17, 2007 Posted April 17, 2007 agreed, its better as a 10c, fits the crag better that way....but it got upgaded from consensus....just like pleasant pheasant got downgraded....either way its a great route some others to check out... all the 5.11s at Gobsmacking Wall Heat Wave & Friends Gone Surfin' Ron Zalko Workout Promised Land Theres an exit 38 here too!...its called Chekamus hey...how is that ron zalk workout?? the guide kinda made it sound like it didn't get climbed much??? Quote
RuMR Posted April 17, 2007 Posted April 17, 2007 How does it compare to Saccherer? or Mid Term? Seems no harder than Reeds p1 to me. Outer Limts p1 is way harder. yeah, you have a point...stone groove at 10b was quite a bit harder, and sacher is a lot harder...same with midterm too... outer limits is harder too... Quote
EWolfe Posted April 17, 2007 Posted April 17, 2007 I had this epic siegefest on a massive summit (2005 & 2006 taxes). Got up early Saturday morning, climbed (data entry) all morning long, got dehydrated (bored), had to stop and boil snow (case of coronas, 4 limes, bag of chips). Refreshed, I trudged (more data entry) upwards. Got off route (missing receipts) and had to bivy (passed out). Sunday, woke to blue sky's (fucking alarm clock) and proceeded to break camp (corona at 6am). A long day of sketchy rock (lying), frozen mud (making shit up)and constant rockfall (beer shits) led me to the summit cornice (out of beer). Undaunted, I trudged (staggered) on but as my headlamp (420) was dying, I turned back in defeat (filed extension, again). Failing sucks but at least I tried (that sucked even worse). Nice TR! Pics? Quote
drater Posted April 18, 2007 Posted April 18, 2007 Pics? Thankfully, no. Barely remember it to be honest. Quote
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