dmuja Posted April 14, 2007 Posted April 14, 2007 Couldn't find the start of "R & D"! I know this sounds dorky, but we were approaching from up canyon on 8 Mile Buttress and traversing back toward town. My partner that day had approached previously from that direction and thought it would SURELY be obvious, it wasn't. We got pretty high up (nearly snow level) and could not find the start. So, is the start of R & D on the climbers left side of Icicle Buttress facing up canyon OR is it on the face of the Buttress facing the road? How high (how far from the road) is the start of the route? Thanks for any info on this. Quote
rbwen Posted April 14, 2007 Posted April 14, 2007 It starts on the left side of the buttress (not on the face) about 100 yards up the small canyon. Look for the slabby two-pitch 5.7 called Cocaine Connection that starts in a small roof/corner and then go uphill another 50 yards to the left. rbwen Quote
kurthicks Posted April 14, 2007 Posted April 14, 2007 it starts in a somewhat obvious broken corner that has many variations. anywho, start at the base somewhere and climb whatever looks like fun ultimately trending towards the obvious chimney up high on the buttress. Quote
Bug Posted April 14, 2007 Posted April 14, 2007 You start at the base of the left facing low angle corner. There is a bush right next to the corner and a small sandy ledge just above a few blocks on the approach. There is a big ponerosa 20 yards to the left and about the same level. Go up through the chimney in the roof 90 ft up. Then into the second roof another 100 ft up but turn left into the squeeze chimney just as you get under the roof. Quote
Dr_Flush_Amazing Posted April 15, 2007 Posted April 15, 2007 Just look for these guys and try to get in line ahead of them. Quote
ScottP Posted April 15, 2007 Posted April 15, 2007 (edited) Nobody out there has a picture of Icicle Buttress, left side? Never mind, here is a pic of somone on the route. The base isn't exactly shown, but get to the bottom of what you can see and your are pretty much there. Edited April 15, 2007 by ScottP Quote
rbwen Posted April 15, 2007 Posted April 15, 2007 The climber on the slab on the right in light blue is on Cocaine Connection. The climber in the middle of the photo is closer to the start of R & D. http://www.briankenison.com/picture/289 Quote
Crillz Posted June 19, 2007 Posted June 19, 2007 Is the guy in that picture wearing boxing gloves? Quote
dmuja Posted June 19, 2007 Author Posted June 19, 2007 well... you know... we fight for our leads at each belay Quote
Crillz Posted June 19, 2007 Posted June 19, 2007 Looks like he lost at the right time - the best pitch(s) are coming up! Quote
Crillz Posted June 19, 2007 Posted June 19, 2007 Do you think if "Hand Jammies" were called something else, they wouldn't get ragged on as much? Perhaps a thread for another time. Quote
goatboy Posted June 20, 2007 Posted June 20, 2007 Shakespeare reminds us that a hand jammy, by any other name, would still be just as dumb... Quote
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