Knottygirl Posted March 14, 2007 Posted March 14, 2007 So why is it that falling out of the top results in injury? Is it because it steepens combined with pro pulling out or no pro? I remember getting in a Green Alien and a Blue Alien right before the pod. They nested in there pretty securely, so that they most likely would have held a fall, at that low fall factor. well my friend who fell just got pumped out...he's an "off the couch" climber and hadn't climbed in awhile....let alone climbed trad at that grade...so he fell and popped a piece and hit the ledge. I finished the climbed (yea me! only the 4th trad climb i had done..I also fell at the same place because I was fiddle fucking with my gear too long...because I only can place nuts...no cams)I guess the guy who broke his leg did so in the same place too. Quote
kevbone Posted March 14, 2007 Posted March 14, 2007 That is me at the belay; I am guiding a nice guy up it in 05. I don’t know....is that you? Quote
Billygoat Posted March 14, 2007 Posted March 14, 2007 Well...I guess I am a nice guy. wrong chalk bag tho. Quote
corvallisclimb Posted March 14, 2007 Posted March 14, 2007 from that same day one the monkey... one of the partys took some pictures of me on p2 of the east face with a really nice camera. Quote
billcoe Posted March 14, 2007 Posted March 14, 2007 I think I saw you up there, are you named Porter or Iain? Quote
corvallisclimb Posted March 14, 2007 Posted March 14, 2007 My name is Tyler, Porter is Olyclimber, and Ian was my partner on the east face that day he posts as 111. Where you down there when we where yelling a bunch? Quote
billcoe Posted March 14, 2007 Posted March 14, 2007 We did a bunch of routes Sat and were in the area. We talked some to you guys as a couple of the routes we did (First Kiss and also West Face variation to Bohn Street on Monkey) were in your area. Did I hear you say C2 for East Face? Nice pics BTW, thanks for sharing. Quote
corvallisclimb Posted March 14, 2007 Posted March 14, 2007 Was that you when I yelled down how was first kiss or something like that? The east face is C2 more or less some people might say C2+ I dont know tho. There are couple of cruxy places, where I am in the picture I think is one of the harder parts I kept blowing nuts and aliens when I was testing em, but finally got a TCU to stick so I could make the move. Its pretty darn steep and eats little nuts. Great route if your solid on clean aid. Bring lots of nuts, and a large hook is nice. Last pitch has all old bolts but I plan on doing something about that soon, we did replace the anchor atop P2 a month ago. Quote
billcoe Posted March 14, 2007 Posted March 14, 2007 Was that you when I yelled down how was first kiss or something like that? Yup, that was us. Quote
111 Posted March 14, 2007 Posted March 14, 2007 Whaddaya know, I met the famous Oly and didnt even know it. I was Corvallisclimb's partner. Quote
111 Posted March 14, 2007 Posted March 14, 2007 Oh, and cheers to the huge "woohooo!" shoutfest that evening on the front side. It was hilarious. The hikers in front of us were freaking out at all the yelling in the canyon. Quote
corvallisclimb Posted March 15, 2007 Posted March 15, 2007 Was that you when I yelled down how was first kiss or something like that? Yup, that was us. Well nice to meet you then! Sounds like cc.com had smith on lock down last weekend. Quote
kevbone Posted March 15, 2007 Posted March 15, 2007 Olyclimber just got outed....whats up Porter? Quote
billcoe Posted March 15, 2007 Posted March 15, 2007 My name is Tyler, Porter is Olyclimber, and Ian was my partner on the east face that day he posts as 111. Where you down there when we where yelling a bunch? Well Tyler, nice to meet you too, you guys were rocking. ____________________________________________________________ Ohhhh Kevbone, was someone (Porter Hammer) outed? Later: Bill Quote
jfs1978 Posted March 15, 2007 Posted March 15, 2007 Oh, and cheers to the huge "woohooo!" shoutfest that evening on the front side. It was hilarious. The hikers in front of us were freaking out at all the yelling in the canyon. lol - ah...faces to names. all me and my partner could tell was that some dude named Ian wasn't getting the message to "FIX THE F***ING ROPE". I think all the hikers were getting it though. several times. had us cracking up. nice work on the climb though btw. Quote
corvallisclimb Posted March 15, 2007 Posted March 15, 2007 Oh, and cheers to the huge "woohooo!" shoutfest that evening on the front side. It was hilarious. The hikers in front of us were freaking out at all the yelling in the canyon. lol - ah...faces to names. all me and my partner could tell was that some dude named Ian wasn't getting the message to "FIX THE F***ING ROPE". I think all the hikers were getting it though. several times. had us cracking up. nice work on the climb though btw. Heh, Ian steped up to do his first real aid climb with me, and graciously offerd to lead the last bolt ladder pitch. Due to my poor communication I hadn't properly informed him on exactly what to do apoun reaching an aid belay. So a bit of yelling took place to try and relay the propper message. Some of the pitches on the monkey, last pitch of east face, 3rd pitch of west face often have poor communication. Sorry to all who heard me yell the f word! Props to Ian for stepping up and letting me use his alpine aiders and he used slings for the climb, when I forgot my regular aiders. Quote
jfs1978 Posted March 15, 2007 Posted March 15, 2007 heh - no worries on our end. those echo chambers have a way of amplifying your shouts to everyone except your belayer. Quote
corvallisclimb Posted March 15, 2007 Posted March 15, 2007 heh - no worries on our end. those echo chambers have a way of amplifying your shouts to everyone except your belayer. Ya a lot of the times Ill carry radios aid climbing to avoid that sort of crap. Part of the problem was he traversed all the way over to the anchor on the west face, so then once he untied and moved he was able to hear me better. Quote
111 Posted March 16, 2007 Posted March 16, 2007 Yea, I knew thats what you are supposed to usually do but something you said before I began led me to believe you were goin gto just aid the bolts and then free the rest. Whatever. I got it now. Quote
111 Posted March 16, 2007 Posted March 16, 2007 I dont really want to start a new thread, so I'll ask here. Whats going on with Oly? I saw the thread on the climbing forum. Quote
billcoe Posted March 16, 2007 Posted March 16, 2007 Sounds like you guys must have worn him out. Either that or maybe he also got Strep B from all the crap we all flung at him online. He did mention that he had that Bursitius/swollen elbow. Maybe we all just need to play nicer? Quote
corvallisclimb Posted March 16, 2007 Posted March 16, 2007 Sounds like you guys must have worn him out. I think they mabey got worn out putting up that wicked new FA over astrix pass Quote
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