Bugaboos info request

[Bigtree]

I'm looking for some advice on the pros/cons of heading to the bugs in July vs. August this year.

 

The very rough plan at this stage is a hut-based week-long trip with West Pigeon Spire and possibly Bugaboo spire on the "must do" list. The feedback I've had to-date from some folks is that glacier travel in mid-August can be tough and that July is better. Problem is that mid/late August is all that really works for me.

 

Thoughts?

 

 

[fheimerd]

Maybe you could learn how to travel on glaciers...

 

I went end of july beginning of august and it wasn't an issue but I'm sure late august would be looking much different. Probably just more of a pain in the ass to get to climbs...ie boots, crampoons and ice ax would be a necesity. In july you can get away with tennies, crampoons and trecking poles.

 

 

[brian_m]

Maybe you could learn how to travel on glaciers...

 

Relax a bit. The poor guy was just asking a question. No need to be a dick.

 

[counterfeitfake]

I went in early August and the 'schrund in the B-S col was starting to get a little gnarly. It would be nicer to go up that col if it was totally snow-covered. But, I have some friends who went weeks after me and they managed just fine. So, I say go when you can go.

[TeleRoss]

It's never really that bad...the most important thing is the weather....

The B/S col was really dry and crappy late last summer when we were there, lots of loose rocks and dirt, and some hard ice, but with crampons and axe it's no trouble, even with just tennies.

earlier in the season you could get by without the crampons.

but again, weather should be your prime consideration

cheers

 

Edited March 13, 2007 by TeleRoss

[Bigtree]

Thanks guys. That's what I was after. Just concerned about spending an inordinate amount of time meandering our way to our climbing objectives.

[G-spotter]

If you know what you're doing the Bugs are not a problem, but there's plenty of parties that end up having 20 hour epics on the West Ridge of Pigeon, say... don't forget to do some other alpine rock routes BEFORE you go there.

[bonathanjarrett]

What is the earliest that folks head into the Bugaboos to climb? I seems like mid to late July is prime, but is the middle to end of June too early? When does the road in from 95/Brisco open up? I would imagine that the weather might be more unstable then? It seems like day time temps aren't bad from what I have been able to gather. Any thoughts, reactions, or insights on mid June climbin' in the Bugaboos would be appreciated.

[lambda]

I've been up in late June, late July, and early September. June was fine with good and easy snow to the top of the col (and everywhere). The September trip had lots of stormy weather and snow. I guess it could (typically) be rather unstable in June, but it was rather uncrowded relative to July.

[genepires]

weather and crowds should be a larger factor in your timing. The glacier travel to the routes you mentioned are very easy, except for the short haul up to the col. Much of the time in august, there is a deep trench dug in by the hordes up the col. (would still want some light AL poons and axe) But I wouldn't say it was so gnarly, even in august.

 

August can be crowded because historically the weather is better. The routes you mentioned (w ridge pigeon and kain face?) can accomodate lots of people. Crowds may be less of a issue. I wouldn't want a late start though. Plenty of people emergency open bivy or do dark rappels down the col.

 

I have been snowed on in july and hut bound for 3 days. But it was fairly empty so if you want a wild expereince, go in july.

Edited April 8, 2007 by genepires

[TimL]

Last mid to late july the glacier travel was easy. I've also been in the Bugs in early August and glacier travel wasn't a problem then either. Its not really something I would worry about. The only thing is the B/S schrund. We used tennis shoes, light ice axe and light poons. Seemed to me that you would have to want to fall into a crevase.

 

Worry about the weather. Get a very early start, especially for West Ridge of Pidgeon cause its farther away. Beware of afternoon storms. We got caught in one and they are really exciting. Not sure how many alpine routes you've done but the best way to climb Pidgeon is in two pitches. One from the col to the pitch below the summit, which is like 5.0. Then the pitch to the summit, which is like 5.4. Beware of parties belaying the entire route.

[BackCountryPunk]

Also, think about staying up in the campsite. You'll be closer to the routes, and its a really nice site as well (the view out the outhouse window is amazing....)

[Bigtree]

Thanks BackCountryPunk. I've heard others give similar advice, but my 2 mates were keen to do a trip based out of the Kain hut so we've booked 4 nights starting Aug. 19.

 

My only "must climbs" will be the West Ridge of Pidgeon Spire and the Kain Route on Bug Spire - all else will be cream.

[genepires]

w ridge of pigeon is a good route for a "so-so" weather day. Those socked in but not crappin rain days.

[mattp]

w ridge of pigeon is a good route for a "so-so" weather day. Those socked in but not crappin rain days.

 

True, you can do the climb in poor visibility and drip, but it is an even better climb on a stellar sunshine day. The West Ridge is one of my favorite climbs ever. Seriously.

 

There are lots more challenging or "interesting" climbs out there, and really it is perhaps but a side trip on a Bugaboo outing but the West Ridge of Pidgeon Spire is just plain fantastic. Bring a camera.