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olyclimber

Metolius Ultralight Offset TCUs

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I got mine last November and have been loving them ever since. :tup: :tup: They go great in the wavy cracks at Vantage, but I have yet to get back out to use them in the pin scars at Index :cry:

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I read through the review and didn't find any useful information that wasn't available elsewhere.

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What sort of information were you seeking Mr_Phil? And why do you go elsewhere?

 

I don't deny that much of the information there is available on the web if you want to look around, but I did try to add in information not found anywhere else. But if we can bring that type of information to CC.com, then why not? Heck, we can spread the love and have some of our PNW sprayers foundling new gear instead of some other website reviewing the gear in Colorado or California.

There is consolidated information there which is nice, but there is only so far you can go with a review when you aren't doing destructive testing (which would also entail being an engineer with the qualifications to do such testing) or going out and wearing out some gear to develop a strong, supportable opinion.

I tried to put together as much information on these TCUs as I could, and I'm definitely open to anything we can do to improve (i.e. other information you'd like to see that is within the realm of something we can actually do in a reasonable timeframe).

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I have never used, nor felt a need for this kind. I can recall though a couple of cases where I placed an Alien with just 2 cams engaged. But never recall those being life or death placements.

 

I know these cams are used but never seen anybody carrying them.

What if everybody lists the local FREE routes (e.g. Squamish, Index, Vantage) you find are far better, or even key to protect with offsets [rather than with regular cams]? Location and grade would be really nice.

BTW, I am not trying imply that one can always do without, that will always be subjective - just curious and have no extra $$$ (anymore :) ).

 

Thank you!

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I did a route yesterday at Vantage, 272 (5.8), and it would have taken the #2/3 perfectly. Unfortunately, I decided to leave my offsets in the car :(

 

Had to make do with a less than great #3 TCU, which would have held just fine none the less.

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"borrow a pair and try them for yourselves for a while"

 

Nice review. The closeup pics of the lobes were very good to see how these differ from the typical TCU, or even the Hybrid Aliens.

 

Thanks for putting it together.

 

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Yeah, Oly. It'll be cool to see how many people use the review system :tup: :tup:

 

I hate looking through all the crap out there and trying to remember where I saw it at. Kudos :rawk:

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That is cool that you guys are starting to put up full on gear reviews. I like the forum link feedback too.

 

What I would like to see is pictures (or written comparison) showing placements that could not be made with standard TCUs in particular or aliens/c3/zeros more generally. If these placements were further compared with offset aliens, that would be cool too.

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That is cool that you guys are starting to put up full on gear reviews. I like the forum link feedback too.

 

What I would like to see is pictures (or written comparison) showing placements that could not be made with standard TCUs in particular or aliens/c3/zeros more generally. If these placements were further compared with offset aliens, that would be cool too.

 

Basically we're telling you to get off your ass and go climbing more. Jeez, what are you thinking? :noway:

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Keep in mind these offset TCUs were designed for aid climbing, where you have a big rack with all sort of different pieces. The guy who really was instrumental in getting these to market was Ivo Ninov for use down at Yosemite. They are a specialty item that are designed for pin scars and other flaring or odd placements that aren't an ideal placement with standard symmetrical gear. There is definitely a market it for them, and up until these came available it was filled by the Alien offsets.

 

I'm sure you can think of plenty of places where this type of gear would be ideal over symmetrical gear, but both would most likely hold your fall. This is just another tool for improving your chances. If you're buying a second set in these smaller sizes, you might want to consider them.

 

There are some good ideas here...next time I get a chance with an ideal placement for these I'll take a shot showing an offset placed, and then another with a symmetrical cam placed. Also, if you see me out there at the crag and want to give them a go, just say hello (at least till I have to return them).

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A really easy answer - borrow some offsets and aid climb city park.

 

Sure, it will take your small nuts just fine, but you need the offset cams to get stability in pin scars.

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That is cool that you guys are starting to put up full on gear reviews. I like the forum link feedback too.

 

What I would like to see is pictures (or written comparison) showing placements that could not be made with standard TCUs in particular or aliens/c3/zeros more generally. If these placements were further compared with offset aliens, that would be cool too.

 

Basically we're telling you to get off your ass and go climbing more. Jeez, what are you thinking? :noway:

 

Not sure what you mean here.

 

I wasn't trying to negatively criticize your review Oly, just saying how I think your review could be a cut above the rest.

 

It'd also be cool to see more negative remarks in the reviews. For example, for even my girlishly skinny fingers, the new UL TCUs (non offset) are a really tight squeeze. Theyve also made the trigger bar narrower beyond the wires so you cant easily grip outside the U-stem. They still work for me, but I can imagine it would be tough for a fat fingered fellow.

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I don't have any problem with criticism, thats why I put this thread here.

 

Since these things are the same exact design, just different lobe sizes on each end, you're likely to have the same compliant regarding the trigger bar.

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Keep in mind these offset TCUs were designed for aid climbing, where you have a big rack with all sort of different pieces. The guy who really was instrumental in getting these to market was Ivo Ninov for use down at Yosemite. They are a specialty item that are designed for pin scars and other flaring or odd placements that aren't an ideal placement with standard symmetrical gear. There is definitely a market it for them, and up until these came available it was filled by the Alien offsets.

 

Oly, that's not entirely true, Ivo and Brooke were just as psyched about them for free climbing which is all I've used mine for to-date.

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True enough, I shouldn't be quoting someone third hand anyway :blush: I guess the point is that they will most likely end up on an aid rack, but that all depends on what you like to climb. Bottom line is its just another piece of protection (free or aid) on that is available, which isn't a bad thing.

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I agree. I have two sets of both Alien and Metolius Offsets. The quality of the Aliens (and the whole Alien fiasco) is what caused me to throw my [minor] voice in with Ivo's to try and get these into production which was far from a done deal. They really had to be sold over time internally within Metolius and even then had to take their place in the priority queue behind the regular Ultralights.

 

As I said, I've mainly free climbed on both the Aliens and Metolius Offsets, they are often superb when the going gets dicey. I definitely don't like the quality of the Aliens, but even they have their place on occasion. Sometimes there's just a surface V-gash and the only thing that will go in there solid is half an Alien (regular or offset) in anything else it's the Metolius all the way.

 

Now if we could get WC to resume making the bigger hybrids again or at least let folks special order them. The Super Cam takes up some of that slack though.

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I know that this is an old thread and therefore old news… but I got a set of the offset TCUs and took them up Green Dragon awhile ago and thought they were very handy and well worth the cost. I used them on every pitch and they made some placements very fast and secure. Great little cams...

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I know that this is an old thread and therefore old news… but I got a set of the offset TCUs and took them up Green Dragon awhile ago and thought they were very handy and well worth the cost. I used them on every pitch and they made some placements very fast and secure. Great little cams...

 

Totally concur. In fact, the biggest impediment to free climbing with them is getting over the mental block and just taking them, they do great and you'll find all kinds of placements, even on routes you've done many times with regular cams, once they are on the rack and you have them available!

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