Bronco Posted February 20, 2001 Share Posted February 20, 2001 Does anybody have any recomendations on an ice tool for alpine climbs? Used to set pickets, ice screws or when axes are needed in both hands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted February 20, 2001 Share Posted February 20, 2001 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/ubb/Forum9/HTML/000022.html http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/ubb/Forum9/HTML/000019.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayborbon Posted February 20, 2001 Share Posted February 20, 2001 From a previous post by me look at these: Not one of the 2 mentioned but not to be overlooked if you are looking for a tool. My friend recently purchased Dmm Flys and really likes them (I am jealous). You can still bash the knuckles on steeper 4-5 ice. However the pick seems to be solid. The parts between the pick and hammer on top is ergonomic for alpining. The grip is great and rubberized only where you need it and they are extremely light. Not too specialized for Waterfalls is what I like.. Some tools I find do not perform as well on lower angle ice like Grivel Top Machine and Quarks and other radically bent shafts... However that might be what you want. The pick also releases easier than most if you overdrive it. The price cannot be matched for the value you get in my opinion. -Ray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeadam Posted February 21, 2001 Share Posted February 21, 2001 Grivel Rambo 2's seem to be a top performer for midrange ice (low angle to 80 degrees) and alpine. If you take them on grade4 or harder you will hate yourself for it. Grab the top machines for that chore. The House of Sky will fall with Tops and a Lite though despite what Borbon says. Enjoy your desk.... Mike http://alpinelite.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayborbon Posted February 21, 2001 Share Posted February 21, 2001 Braggart.. BTW I don't think I would use those as tools of choice on low angle stuff.. [This message has been edited by rayborbon (edited 02-20-2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriss Posted February 21, 2001 Share Posted February 21, 2001 Get a small, light 3rd tool kind of hammer. Use it as a backup for waterfall climbing and with your long mountain axe on easy alpine. I have a Camp Micro. It was a little too light, so I added a CM headweight to it. Has a short straight shaft (easy to get in and out of holster) and a fixed pick. Was really cheap when I bought it, about $25. chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJ Posted February 21, 2001 Share Posted February 21, 2001 A couple partners of mine carry third tools for this kind of work. Sometimes you will even see them advertised as "children's" ice tools. The only complaint is that they tend to be too short for much ice climbing and the head weight is too light for more than the occasional hammer use. Advantages are light weight, shorter length (won't poke you as much in a holster), and lower cost than carrying a true ice tool. If you get one I'd suggest using a very simple leash since the dedicated ice tool leashes tend to get in the way (tool swing is very short). I believe Grivel makes a pretty good tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
none_dup1 Posted February 21, 2001 Share Posted February 21, 2001 This is the kind of combo I wanted too, and I went with the Grivel Jorasses in 60 cm and Grivel Black Compact third tool (I think it's 43cm). If I ever do any real ice climbing, I'll use something heavier and longer than the third tool, but for easy alpine ice and plunging, this is a great set-up. Check out the Pro Mountain Sports web site. John Sharp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 21, 2001 Share Posted February 21, 2001 Get a pair of Pulsars. They kick ass for everything from low angle snow climbing (with the multishaft long shaft) to ice up to WI 4-5 and you can beat them to death on just about any type of ground without them breaking. The only disadvantage is they're a bit heavy for using as a primary non-technical mountaineering tool and a bit old school for hard ice given the new shaft designs out on the market. For hard ice, to hell with Tops, get Quarks. Quarks rule! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott Posted February 22, 2001 Share Posted February 22, 2001 does charlet sell a classic pick to fit on their tools? i don't think you can self arrest with a drop pick. do you use the adze? this is the only drawback i can see to the charlet multi-shaft tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted February 22, 2001 Author Share Posted February 22, 2001 I think the 3rd tool as suggested by Criss, AJ and Mr.Goodtime is what I had in mind. Pretty simple, CHEAP, just a hammer and a pick. The RamboQuarkFly seems like a little overkill and spendy to boot. On the other hand, they would look much cooler strapped to my pack! Thanks people! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 22, 2001 Share Posted February 22, 2001 Charlet sell a classic pick but I have never had any problems self arresting with the "Cascade" pick. The way I see it if you are on terrain where the ability to self arrest will depend on the type of pick you use you might as well rope up and place pro. And, I will NEVER again climb anything requiring two tools with a straight shaft mountaineering axe. Tried it, nuh uh. That's what I like about the multishaft Charlet, you can carry the extra shaft in your pack and switch em over at the base and top of the face. The main drawback is the weight. The other nice thing about the hammer multishaft is that you can take the pick and shaft off and it turns into a small, light rock hammer for long alpine climbs where you might have to place one or two pins but don't want to slam 'em in with a handy rock. Leave the pick on and you wont have to cut your way across the snow to the base of the rock with your nut tool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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