Kevin_Matlock Posted February 14, 2007 Share Posted February 14, 2007 The other night at the evil empire I was all set to pickup a 30M Beal Rando for glacier/not-so-technical routes. Instead I found a 30M Edelweiss Discover for only $10 more; both are 30M 8mm twin ropes. The Edelweiss is rated for 14 falls at 9kn, the Beal only 5 at 4.2kn. Yeah, the Edelweiss is a little heavier, and it has a 7.6% elongation (versus 10% for the Beal), but this seems like a lopsided match-up. Is the Edelweiss Discover that much better than the Rando for only $10 more? Sure hope so since that's the one I bought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted February 14, 2007 Share Posted February 14, 2007 Isn't the kN rating how much force the rope exerts on the anchor? Which is why the Beal has greater elongation? Since you shouldn't plan on falling on either of these ropes, I think it's academic. I probably would have gone with the cheaper and lighter one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted February 14, 2007 Share Posted February 14, 2007 Beals are stretchier and lighter than Edelwies's, but not as durable or as "strong". But, as CFF said, you aren't supposed to fall when you ice climb so for the most part a Beal is a better choice for snow and ice stuff, IMO. I had a pair of Edelweiss doubles that lasted for fucking ever, though. Probably the better choice for rock climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin_Matlock Posted February 14, 2007 Author Share Posted February 14, 2007 Isn't the kN rating how much force the rope exerts on the anchor? Which is why the Beal has greater elongation? Now isn't that a good god damn question!?!? Didn't think of it that way, figured it was it's max impact strength as with biners/pro. I aint taking this fucker up to do any top roping, that's fer sure.... pretty much just a 'peice of mind' on steep slopes as a backup for self arrests. Any verticle, high fall potential and this thing is staying at home! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted February 14, 2007 Share Posted February 14, 2007 Didn't think of it that way, figured it was it's max impact strength as with biners/pro. This page seems to have some good info. "Maximum impact force is the maximum load transmitted to the climber during a fall. The UIAA specifies a maximum impact force of 2540 pounds for single ropes and 1760 pounds for double ropes." That translates to 11.5 kN for singles and 8 kN for doubles. Which kind of disagrees with the rating of the Edelweiss... not sure what to make of that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlympicMtnBoy Posted February 14, 2007 Share Posted February 14, 2007 I just want 30 meters of a Beal Joker, then I don't have to worry about all that. It's not realy that much heavier either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordop Posted February 14, 2007 Share Posted February 14, 2007 The Edelweiss is rated for 14 falls at 9kn, the Beal only 5 at 4.2kn. Yeah, the Edelweiss is a little heavier, and it has a 7.6% elongation (versus 10% for the Beal), but this seems like a lopsided match-up. This is because Beal actually tested the Rando rope on one strand given that it was designed only to be used as such --Eldelweiss used two stands. I was looking at the Beal deal the other day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin_Matlock Posted February 14, 2007 Author Share Posted February 14, 2007 WHAT? Sounds like deceptive advertising to me. Buyer beware I guess. Shoulda done more homework. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogerJ Posted February 14, 2007 Share Posted February 14, 2007 Mammut makes a Phoenix (1/2 rope) in 30mx8mm. I'd recommend it over either one. -r Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maxtrax Posted February 15, 2007 Share Posted February 15, 2007 Mammut makes a Phoenix (1/2 rope) in 30mx8mm. I'd recommend it over either one. -r I came here to post exactly this. I rock climbed on 60m Phoenixes this summer and absolutely loved them. I prefer them over my buddy's Ice Lines I'm climbing on this winter. There's one 30m Phoenix in stock over at Marmot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriss Posted February 15, 2007 Share Posted February 15, 2007 The Edelweiss is rated for 14 falls at 9kn, the Beal only 5 at 4.2kn. Yeah, the Edelweiss is a little heavier, and it has a 7.6% elongation (versus 10% for the Beal), but this seems like a lopsided match-up. This is because Beal actually tested the Rando rope on one strand given that it was designed only to be used as such --Eldelweiss used two stands. I was looking at the Beal deal the other day. I read somewhere that there was a new clasification and test for ropes used like this. I remember the new testing to be something like 80kg and a <1FF. The Edelweiss looks to reporting the twin test results and the Beal the new testing. Compare them using their twin ratings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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