sparverius Posted January 29, 2007 Share Posted January 29, 2007 Trip: Mt. Hood - Sandy Glacier Headwall Date: 1/28/2007 Trip Report: Matt, Jeff, and I decided to take advantage of the gorgeous weather this past weekend and climb the Sandy Glacier Headwall. We skinned up from T-line Saturday afternoon in outrageous winds. Apparently, there were gusts of 60 mph at the top of Palmer lift that evening. Skinning on the ice was arduous, but I stubbornly left the skis on until I was halfway across the traverse to Illumination saddle. We reached the saddle with enough twilight to scout out our crossing for Yocum Ridge. We opted for the lower crossing, since we couldn't see a feasible upper route in the fading daylight and none of us had crossed the ridge before. Sweatinoutliquor and his girlfriend joined us at the saddle as we were crawling into our bivy sacks. The climb was his idea, but he had to bow out due to relationship obligations. So he and his lady friend dozed in their bomb shelter while the three of us roped up and started the descent to the Reid Glacier in the early morning moonlight. We had to deal with some steeper slopes getting up, and then down from Yocum Ridge, but we were soon on the Sandy Glacier. The straightforward traverse put us at the base of the headwall by 5:30, and I thought that we would be on the summit by sunrise. It was a gross under-estimation. The lower half of the headwall was a mix of windslab and firm snow, and quickly brought us to the crux of the climb, a short (10 ft), steep (70 degrees) ice chimney that was a mix of ice, rime, and rock. Jeff, a native New-Englander, had no problem leading the pitch, and made Matt and my cursing and grunting seem silly. The remainder of the headwall was consistent ice, a combination of old alpine ice and some refreeze. There were rare pockets of windslab, and we soon viewed these as oasises. Equipped with one ice-screw, we had no choice but to solo this section. The going was slow and nerve-wracking for Matt and I, who have limited experience on ice. After what seemed like an eternity of front-pointing we topped out on Cathedral Ridge at 11, with amazing views of the Washington volcanoes and Yocum Ridge. We were thoroughly thrashed from the ice and slowy made our way up to the summit ridge and were on the summit by noon. The winds had subsided, and we lounged on the summit. We descended the south side in balmy condtions taking advantage of the stairs on West Crater rim and quickly plunge-stepped to skiers right of castle rock back to the saddle. The icy ski traverse to the top of Palmer from the saddle was terrifying, but the turns down the groomers were sweet and well-earned. Over-all the climb went well, although taking much longer than expected. It was nice to finally visit that side of mountain. Camp at the saddle Descending onto the Sandy Glacier from Yocum Ridge Enjoyable climbing on the headwall The exciting ice-chimney Matt traversing the last of the ice. Yocum Ridge in background. Cathedral Ridge and Mount Adams Jeff exiting the headwall Summit Ridge Gear Notes: 5 pickets (one or two too many), one ice-screw (would have liked a handful for the upper headwall), two-tools, pop-tarts Approach Notes: skin up the cat track alongside the groomers then traverse over to Illumination Saddle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 29, 2007 Share Posted January 29, 2007 Wow, how cool. you guys are burly with all your snow travels. I just climb rock. Im a wimp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted January 29, 2007 Share Posted January 29, 2007 Nice TR. :tup: I need to make a trip down to my southerly brethren. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparverius Posted January 29, 2007 Author Share Posted January 29, 2007 By southerly do you mean Shasta and the sierras? You are welcome any time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweatinoutliquor Posted January 29, 2007 Share Posted January 29, 2007 Nice TR Jason. Photo of the gully looks sweet! You know, even if I had gone with you I still would have forgot to bring screws... Stupid I guess, but it never even crossed my mind! The photos were not what I would have expected at all! Crazy! Good job! Although it was hard to be up there with you guys but not "be up there with you guys" I think the weekend was a pretty good one for introducing the little lady to snow climbing. I'm pretty stoked actually... Even with all that wind she didn't complain once, even though she could barely stand up in the stronger gusts. to you too Mel! Hey, just a note to clarify... You didn't bring two tools did you (other than the guys you were with... okay, ha ha)? Just a mountain axe and second tool, right (just wanted to give you credit for climbing all that ice with your blunt mountain axe!). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweatinoutliquor Posted January 29, 2007 Share Posted January 29, 2007 You should send that picture to scarpa/black diamond! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matopis Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 Nice TR Jason. I used to claim that I never took pictures on climbs since my camera was too big and heavy. I later purchased a small digital camera that I could carry on mountain adventures. Although I carried this camera with me on the Sandy Headwall I was so terrified most of the climb that I couldn't muster the nerve to pull it out and snap some photos! matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriznitch Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 sweet climb. thanks for the pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 way to go Jason! see ya in the gym! Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad_A Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 Cool TR, Jason. Nice to have met you all up there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlag Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 Looks like his belay device on the snow below him? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortstow Posted February 4, 2007 Share Posted February 4, 2007 great pics, still way above my level though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fettster Posted February 5, 2007 Share Posted February 5, 2007 (edited) Looks and sounds pretty epic, nice work! Is Tline lodge really the only practical place to get to Yokum Ridge in the winter? Edited February 5, 2007 by fettster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matopis Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 I guess you could get to the Sandy from the Cooper Spur side of the mountain, but I don't think that is much of a gain? Starting from Timberline was nice since that enables you to down climb the south side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matopis Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 jlag - I think the belay device you are looking at is a lonely ice screw. Wish we had brought about a half dozen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.