matopis

Hang in there Jason! Hopefully Mt Rescue refilled your flask before leaving you up there.

ok Jason, I'm taking 10 days off next summer no matter what! Let's set a date now for some Hot North Cascade Action! MAtt

Steph, Any way to look at all of those pictures from your website in a slide-show format? I'm Jealous I missed the trip. Jason strategically planned this so I couldn't go.

nice TR! How was that summit pinnacle? Did you place any gear? Did you rap down?

we did luthold's on sunday. the route was still reasonably solid. ice was coming down constantly, but no rocks! The snow was consolidated and we didn't find any ice. the crevasses were easy to negotiate. the 'shrund on reid's was open wall to wall - see the pic. above the hourglass, looking down on the sunshine we were shocked at the crowds coming up the south. we were alone on the luthold's though 3 others climbed it a few hours behind us. reid's glacier

ok, if you don't actually know the conditions feel free to speculate as well!

Good Job everyone! We left from the car on Friday at noon to climb Liberty Ridge. There was a Russian team of 4 and our team of 3. The temps were high and the snow was soft. We could see the footprints from the party that climbed the route in early May, but there was no boot track to ease the approach. We leap-frogged with the Russians all the way to the base of the ridge. The trail breaking was exhausting since we were the first ones out. The Russians climbed to Thumb Rock and turned around on Sunday due to very soft snow,rock-fall, and nasty looking lenticulars (which cleared!) Our party got off route and mislead a Portland team. We didn't have enough time budgeted to make a second shot at it - which is killing me since this trip report makes it sound like the conditions were great the next day!

Thanks for breaking trail guys! Also, that approach on a bike is no small feat!

Must be nice climbing in the sun. I prefer going up in the rain and then nearly bivying in the trees!

I agree with both of you guys.

Thanks G-spotter. I can already tell we are going to need some translators for these resumes. What's that funny European way of rating climbs all about?! Just kidding. Matt

Here's a late night thought. What if there was an area on the cascade climbers website where you could post your climbing resume. That way when you get lost on mount doom and we read about you in the newspaper, we can make bets as to whether or not you are going to make it out alive. You could include things like "I usually carry my MLU" or "I subscribe to the self-rescue quaterly". This could also help reduce some of the smack talk on the forum, since one could easily look up and determine that posers rule supreme in most forums. ok, there are disadvatages and clearly people will lie, but hey, whadaya tink? Matt BS

Wow, I'm planning a trip now for the North Cascades after seeing those pictures of mount terror! Great Job.

There have been a number of references to bad weather in this thread. Thanks to those that posted links to weather forcasts. I disagree a bit with people who state you shouldn't go into the mountains in bad weather. I have found that getting hammered by storms is some of the best training you can do! The vital skills that you learn while on the lower summits help shape you as a mountaineer. If you just wait for perfect weather to climb you won't know how to deal with the challenges that the mountain sends you unexpectadly. Instead of relying on backcountry skills we start relying on gadgets. I'm not saying we should be summiting regardless of weather, but I don't think we should chastise people for at least getting up there and seeing what the conditions are like. Maybe this party needed more winter travel practice in the lower Cascades?

sparverious - what mischief are you planing with your pole in the winter creek?