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layton

first ascent First Ascent-"Back of Beyond Buttress"

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"Back of Beyond Buttress" -North Face/Buttress of Unnamed Peak. First Ascent Sept 14th, 2002. Jordan Peters and Mike Layton. III+ (or D+) 10b. 9p. Apporox 1500' (maybe less). Approach time 1.5 hours. Climbing time 5-9 hours? Descent time 30-40 min. Suggested Rack (not our rack though):small set medium nuts, camsn to 3" plus double or tripples on the hand size cams(red alien to yellow camalot), one 50-60m rope.

 

Tired after a long day at WA pass, I drove to Abbotsford to meet "Jordop" for the 1st time. We were planning on doing the route Dru was hidding in the chehalis range. We saw it and turned it down, and drove to another place to look at another mtn. It looked neat, but far and not so steep.

 

We had one more option that was feasible so we drove into Kookipi creek to look at the mountain Dru was teasing Jordop with. It looked ok, but we turned that one down too. Kookipi creek is a "new" area that just recently opened due to logging. I can't tell you how to get there yet, becuase I don't know myself. Jordop will surely provide us w/driving direction. It is 3 hours from Vancouver, however on a 2wd road out of Boston Bar. My only problem was a flat tire from the previous drive, and I barely got it inflated w/a can of old tire sealant.

 

Anyway, we turned the mtn down after turning our heads to the left. We both nearly shit ourselves. ACross the valley lay an unnamed, unclimbed, and beautiful granite peak! Granite flanks came down on all sides as it swept around a cirque headwall into another higher summit. It's unglaciated north side has a razor ridge coming down (looks like a Mohawk) to an unbelievably steep perfectly clean blank granite headwall slab. I'm talking super clean, and super blank looking.

 

We quickly packed for a 2-day adventure and headed straight down from across the mountain for 300 feet to the river, and straight up open timer w/a couple dense sections (w/wild raspberries and blueberries!) for an hour to a bivy sport. A nice little stream ran along the base of the talus at a high meadow, where we ditched our packs and grabbed our ropes and gear. I need to mention that this is GRIZZLEY bear country and you MUST be careful!

 

Blinded by the magnificance of this north buttress, I kept my head down (to keep the puke in) and charged up the talus to the base of a 4-500" near vertical apron of perfect, flawless granite. When I looked up, my heart sank. It was almost blank. Almost. On the very left hand of the wall were 4 thin crack that ran parallel up the entirety of the face. They seemed to peter out just as one started up again, but there looked to be a few scary blank sections. We started up!

 

Jordan took the first pitch. The first part was a fist size perfect splitter of lengandary beauty. Then awesome moves over a small roof to a PERFECT handcrack. I cheered him on as he struggled and sweated up this imposing crack. Off belay! Shit, I guess I had to do the next pitch. I followed up and couldn't believe this crack. Perfect! Amazing! I was laughing while climbing. Damn nice lead!

My turn. The crack continued straight out of the belay but looked like it ended. The crack to the left looked like it started thin and continued higher where the belay crack ended. Okay, so I travered over 15' w/no pro nearly shitting my self to the crack and it bottomed out and turned into a seam, so I travered back to the belay already pumped and scared. I was excited to continue up the original crack becuase it look like something right out of a 4 star squamish pitch. It was! It was soooo sweeet and fuckin' hard. It petered out and I did a traverse left to another crack and belay Jordan over. He seemed equally impressed and was pretty pumped (especially after one section).

 

He lead up another perfect perfect hand crack that lead straight up until he too ran out of gear (why I belayed there). My turn again, another perfect crack, to a traverse right to another crack that got kinda weird at the very end, right unde a huge undercling block. Luckily it was only 10 or 20' of not perfect, but pretty good rock to the top of what were are calling the "Endurance Slab" since I wanted to name the climb the Endurance Buttreess, but that seemed a bit much for the whole climb. Anyway it was 4 pitches of absolutely amazing 10b climbing on every pitch. It could be done in 3 pitches, but you'd need a lot more pieces and have to be really good. The exposure is unbelievable, I was petrified on my hanging belays, and while leading. IT's just straight down 400 or more feet! Gulp!

 

We topped out on the Endurance Slab and were now on the main ridge crest. I looked like it was gonna be easy going on low fifth to the summit, but we thought wrong! It turned out to be challenging and tons of fun. Lots of little 10-40' cruxes. Jordop will post a topo and I suggest you follow our line. We did a lot of scoping around and this should be the best way to go.

 

Jordan's fist pitch on the ridge was an super-awesome 5.7 groove jam to a 5.9 corner on totally solid granite (n.ridge of stuart solid). My pitch was some fun moves to a 20-30 foot 10b corner that was soooo hard! No feet for every other move. It may be harder if it was any longer. I continued pulling a fun and easy roof block (I almost tunneled under it!). The next pitches got easier and easier on super solid rock. Near the top the rock was still very solid, but loose rock was on some ledges. The 2nd to last pitch sported a wide, vertical crack easily avioded on the left. We thought it sporting to do it anyways, and I totally flailed up it. 10c/d, but contrived and not part of the route. It took us 9 pitches to get to the unclimbed summit.

 

We made a cairn and enjoyed to view of unclimbed peaks and walls an few hours drive from Vancouver. And as if we didn't have all the luck that day, the desent only took 30 minutes to the bivy site. Walk down from the summit towards the car, make a right into a grove of trees, and walk down a low angle talus gully. You'll see it going up. Very easy and no routefinding. We packed up our useless packs full of food and camping gear and got back to the car. The hike out is very quick, and the slog uphill at the end is much easier than say, the one at the Wine Spires at WA pass.

 

What a fantastic route, day, and a partner! This route has the makings of a classic, and it's easily done car to car (or house to house) from Vancouver or Bellingham.

I'm sure Jordop will post our topo and photos once we get them developed and you'll understand that I'm not overexaggerating just b/c we were the ones who did it that this route really is this good.

 

One more thing. Should we write to the CAJ and how, and same goes for McLane if he updates his guide? Can we name the peak? If not, is it unethical to give it an un-official name?

 

[ 09-15-2002, 03:40 PM: Message edited by: michael_layton ]

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Rack for this route should include: pie plates and muffin mix for the berries, at least two packs smokes, stronger the better, 12 beer minimum, lots of shit tickets for pitches 1-4 [Wink] and about fifteen #1 camalots [big Grin]

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That route is choss. The peak is called Choss Buttress and Jordan has no idea what route I was trying in the Chehalis. [Roll Eyes][Roll Eyes][Roll Eyes][Roll Eyes]

 

No actually, I'm sure KM will be interested in your route (kml@elaho.ca) . The CAJ will be too. But dont bother naming it, or rather, name it anything you want and the Standing Committee on Geographic Names will end up vetoing your choice in favor of 1) a politician, 2) a dead guy or 3) an Indian word meaning "stupid white man thinks this is a traditional name"

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jordan - i notice the pictures are not linking from the peak 6800 peak page on www.bivouac.com

 

i bet you just used name "peak 6800" for the photo essay. try changing it to "peak 6800 (kookipi creek)" ? it might work.

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I see you hung on gear don't forget to change those ratings to 5.10b A0 [Razz]

 

seriously perhaps in honor of the cracks systems ending you should rename it from BoB buttress to Jordan Peters Out. [laf]

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quote:

Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

A-0 a good rating to me. Rock looks good.

I once went climbing in the mountains with this guy whose name I will withhold. He claimed that it was OK to hangdog on gear in the alpine on a first ascent and not report it as long as the second could do the moves without dogging you could claim it as a free ascent. [Roll Eyes]

 

I told him he should take up checkers if he wanted easy glory

[laf] I report all French Free moves as an anti-chestbeating service to the community.

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Actually, it was the other way around, we pulled gear seconding with the pack. A0 if you count the fact that we had to have the short pitches cause we were dead and out of gear [big Grin]

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according to scott cosgrove, all belays not at no-hands-rest stances are A0 [Roll Eyes]

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quote:

Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

Sounds like the route needs a belay bolt
[Confused]

 

Who cares. Sounds good.

And, they did not fly in!!!! [laf]

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quote:

Originally posted by Dru:

quote:

Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

Sounds like the route needs a belay bolt
[Confused]

 

Who cares. Sounds good.

And, they did not fly in!!!!
[laf]
They must be xtra badass [big Drink]

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quote:

Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

quote:

Originally posted by Dru:

quote:

Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

Sounds like the route needs a belay bolt
[Confused]

 

Who cares. Sounds good.

And, they did not fly in!!!!
[laf]
They must be xtra badass
[big Drink]
Yeah with the karma they gained from being ethical there they can now fly beer and weed in to Tantalus [Roll Eyes] for a quick jaunt up the West Face 1968 route.

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