Jump to content

The Mysterious East


Dru

Recommended Posts

PineyK and I went in to the Old Settler on the weekend. We hiked in on Saturday, smoked a bowl, napped, then climbed the W Buttress of the S. Peak (3rd classed - 1 hr up). Back to camp for dinner. Rained a bit on our bivi sax overnight.

 

Sunday we got up in the morning to clouds. Hiked up to the S ridge anyways and wandered over to the unclimbed East side. Picked a line on this side of South Peak before clouds came in. Climbed it - 3 pitches 5.7, 3 pitches of scrambling, then 3 more pitches of 5.7 and some involuntary soloing in hiking boots. This is a really clean and solid route. The rock is a bit different from the west side - it is bluer in colour, steeper and there are more pockets.

 

After this we hiked out then went to the Old Settler pub in Harrison Hotsprings and tried manfully to get free beer for climbing the pubs' namesake but no luck. [big Drink][big Drink][laf]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 10
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

quote:

Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

I like how the rating changes every time I hear aboot this route
[big Grin]

it is rated, and has always been rated, "4th class" which as everyone knows, is a highly scientific grade and commonly applied to obvious gullies and descent routes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I reassert my view that the West Buttress of the South Peak may just be the best alpine rock climb in the world, even if it is easy. I can't understand why it doesn't see line ups every weekend, altho I'm kinda glad it doesn't.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The hike in took an indeterminate time, in a haze of smoky timelessness. The road requires a key or a couple of stacked Z-tons to break open the lock.The descent involves going downhill. Look it up in your copy of Alpine Select.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...