Cpt.Caveman Posted April 29, 2002 Posted April 29, 2002 Veggie, friend Bruce, and I climbed the Northeast arete of Wedge yesterday in pristine weather. We could see hundreds of peaks. Wonder if that one way north was Mt Waddington? The trail was much postholing and miserable going in and walking out I like alpine huts. We snagged the hut saturday night and woke up early Sunday and climbed with intentions of climbing the North Face. However the snow was mushy and wallowing so we opted for the Northeast Arete a fine short route with good exposure on the ridge. Dru I took my summit shot of me wearing my Detroit jersey punk We descended south side and around to the col between Parkhurt ? and Wedge. Got invited to climb Matier in a few weeks. Might go do that next but not sure. Those peaks are very accesible and nice. Quote
vegetablebelay Posted April 29, 2002 Posted April 29, 2002 It's true - there was a Federov sighting on top of Wedge. He was pissing down on all of B.C. Sunday morning. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted April 29, 2002 Author Posted April 29, 2002 Word up E. Veggie and I drank a fifth of whiskey in the Uber Alpine Hut the night before. Quote
Dru Posted April 29, 2002 Posted April 29, 2002 Canucks Lost Ray owes me beer Was going to solo a route in Cheam Range but decided to bail around 2pm on Saturday after looking at scary cornices. Went to Squamish & did some routes in evening. Next day Fern and I did Echelon. sketchelon is the longst route on the Chief. it must be about 22 pitches from bottom of apron to top of Echelon. of the top 15 pitches once you cross the gully about 5 pitches or so are good rock and the other 10 are tree climbing and thrashing and the odd slab. Kris Wild is scrubbing the thing (orig. climbed 1960's) but looks like he needs to work for about 3 more years and get a backhoe up there. Oh yeah I fell out of mud groove onto an old TCU and it held, then i lowered on it and it blew out its cam stop pins and umbrellad and pulled. and i fell 5 feet onto my next piece that held. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted April 29, 2002 Author Posted April 29, 2002 Nice to hear stories like gear failing heheh There were conrices up there but if you went in early enough you might be safe.. On the North Face route if it comes into shape you could certainly bypass it on the left. Heres to Sketch-along and dirt climbing. It's good alpine training Quote
specialed Posted April 29, 2002 Posted April 29, 2002 I hangdogged this weekend And I wasnt even at Smith Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted April 29, 2002 Author Posted April 29, 2002 Here's Fedorov on Wedge's summit Dru Quote
Dru Posted April 29, 2002 Posted April 29, 2002 Hey you should post that pic on www.bivouac.com. Quote
Charlie Posted April 29, 2002 Posted April 29, 2002 Capt- only a fifth?- ahhh, a fifth each! Specialed- I saw you hangdoggin' I was on the beginner's route to the right. Nice work on "the astroman of washington state"! Too bad Larry Inthebutt was waiting to greet us in the parking lot. Quote
mikeadam Posted April 29, 2002 Posted April 29, 2002 http://www.canoe.ca/Slam010321/mlb_jays3-sun.html Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted April 29, 2002 Author Posted April 29, 2002 Ouch Must drink away the pain. I bummed some KGB from gals at the trailhead hehehee Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted April 29, 2002 Author Posted April 29, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Bronco: DONT YOU HAVE SOME LARGER PICTURES???? Working on it Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted April 30, 2002 Author Posted April 30, 2002 It was a bummer Beckey was so ill and could not make it to the top. Here is another chestbeater shot of the upper route that Bruce took. Quote
jordop Posted April 30, 2002 Posted April 30, 2002 Hey, who's the clown that recommended that pic on bivy.com? You guys got in the way of some good McBride Range scenery in the background! Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted April 30, 2002 Author Posted April 30, 2002 Ah but jordop, It is all about the rivalry in that photo hehe American stands on highest summit near Whistler with American team jersey kicking local teams the day before. hehehe I took about 40+ photos in 2 days up there. I have not even developed yet.... I imagine they will be good as well. Quote
Chongo Posted April 30, 2002 Posted April 30, 2002 Musta been some detroit fan. "Motor City Madness, has left the countryside..." Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted April 30, 2002 Author Posted April 30, 2002 quote: Originally posted by jordop: Cavey: you should see what I do on top of American summits. Hint: it involves beavers. Wynona's Big Brown Beaver ??? Quote
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