Weekend_Climberz Posted December 4, 2006 Posted December 4, 2006 Trip: Quincy Wildlife Area - Atkins Diet WI3(+?) Date: 12/2/2006 Trip Report: Sooo..... After a long weekend spent tooling area in the "Great White North" (Eh?), I knew the cold snap would bring good will something in the eastern flatlands. After finding a clue (normally I'm clueless), I decided to see what there was to find. Out came the my favorite book. First I had to wipe the previous years worth of drool from it's pages, at least I hope it was drool. What's this I read, "rumors of ice", "unclimbed lines", "rarley formed". Hmmmm..... What to think about that? Weather: Check Partner: Check F&W Permit: Check Boots, book, and brains: Oops! forgot those! After two false starts, I made haste to our meeting point. It only took two and half hours to drive out to George and park at the little "Public Fishing and Public Hunting" sign that marked the Quincy Wildlife area. Of course, it took almost an hour of schwacking around the wrong side of the lake to figure out there was a trail on the other side. Our reward, 50-60 ft of califlowered and chandeliered plasticness. Down the coulee, there were several long lines near the end of the mesa. Hmm.....not in the book? Have to think about that for later... Here's a photo of me leading... Here's a photo of me being a chicken shit and backing off... Here's a photo of CBS showing me how it's done... Here's a photo of me flipping CBS off.... Gear Notes: Ice gear, hot brew, brain bucket, and common sense. Next time I'll remember to bring a camera, too. Approach Notes: In the WA Ice Guide it says go cross country on the left side of H-Lake. Instead, continue along the road and follow the obvious track along the top of the mesa. Drop down through a stream on you left and work your way around and below the barbed wire fence. Quote
Chad_A Posted December 4, 2006 Posted December 4, 2006 Oh, very cool. All I see is red x's though for your pics. Is it just my PC? Quote
catbirdseat Posted December 4, 2006 Posted December 4, 2006 His girlfriend had both of his cameras and my camera is broken. He was kicking himself for not having one. He should have taken his crampons off while he was doing that, because he tore his Goretex bibs. Quote
AlpineMonkey Posted December 4, 2006 Posted December 4, 2006 (edited) I spent all day on the 2nd in the Quincy area and didn't see you guys I don't think. Was that you guys climbing that little one pitch wall east of ancient lake? And we yelled up to you? If so, that flow is not atkins I dont think??? Its just an unamned drip. We spent all day walking in that area and did see about a dosen major flows trying to come in. It was warm that day and lots of shit was coming down. Edited December 4, 2006 by AlpineMonkey Quote
catbirdseat Posted December 4, 2006 Posted December 4, 2006 We spoke to two climber briefly as they were on their way out. That must have been you. We are fairly inexperienced at water ice so our little flow, whatever it was, was just right for us. Quote
AlpineMonkey Posted December 4, 2006 Posted December 4, 2006 Yeah, that was us. Catbird I run into you everywhere (I'm Craig Gyselinck). We were very suprised to see you two climbing there as we thought Quincy dosen't get much action. The potential climbs there area amazing, however. 12 very serious, big flows are trying real hard to come in further east of there. That was not the Atkins diet though. I soloed the route that you guys were on and we lead a little stiffer one to the left of it earyler that morning. Then went and scoped out all the other flows. We thought that perhaps we were the first ones to ever climb that flow that you guys were on, as its not in the book, and were exteremly surprised to see you guys on it when we came back for our packs. Good stuff. Quote
catbirdseat Posted December 4, 2006 Posted December 4, 2006 Yes, we saw your pick holes but no screw holes so we knew you soloed it. I guess that various flows come in each year depending on the vagaries of weather and water flow. Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted December 4, 2006 Author Posted December 4, 2006 Very interesting... All the lines down the coulee looked pretty sweet. We are fairly inexperienced at water ice Speak for yourself dude, I've got 5 days of ice in so far this season. That's like twice as much as you can expect in WA in any given year Quote
catbirdseat Posted December 4, 2006 Posted December 4, 2006 I guess I am a bit more modest than you WC. I'd say that 50 days would be "fairly experienced", not 5. Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted December 4, 2006 Author Posted December 4, 2006 50 days?? I'm not sure there's been ice that many days in 10 years around here. Doesn't matter any way, I am so suck Quote
tazman Posted December 5, 2006 Posted December 5, 2006 i live above those climbs, i have climbed that a couple of years ago although this is the best in 7 years. most of the ice never comes in enough to climb before it falls, due to its southern exposure. i was just down there today actually this evening. i believe that most of that stuff has been climbed in the past by locals when the weather used to be colder longer. most of the lines are fed by irrigation run off and each year they consistently try to form. Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted December 5, 2006 Author Posted December 5, 2006 most of the lines are fed by irrigation run off That would explain why I smelled a fishy odor. I was hoping it wasn't sewage runoff Quote
AlpineMonkey Posted December 5, 2006 Posted December 5, 2006 Somebody here should come up with a agreed upon name so it can be documented. I thought it was quality. Left side was WI4 and right side was WI3, I would guess 45 feet tall?. Quote
Jens Posted December 5, 2006 Posted December 5, 2006 50 days?? I'm not sure there's been ice that many days in 10 years around here. Doesn't matter any way, I am so suck We all suck on ice here in Wasington and Oregon but it sure is fun! I like "A Fish Called Wanda" Nice job guys! Quote
catbirdseat Posted December 5, 2006 Posted December 5, 2006 It was either "A Fish Called Wanda" or "My Pet 'alibut Eric". Customer: Hello, I would like to buy a fish license, please. Shopkeeper: A what? C: A license for my pet fish, Eric. S: How did you know my name was Eric? C: No no no, my fish's name is Eric, Eric the fish. He's an halibut. S: What? C: He is...an...halibut. S: You've got a pet halibut? C: Yes. I chose him out of thousands. I didn't like the others, they were all too flat. S: You must be a looney. Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted December 5, 2006 Author Posted December 5, 2006 Somebody here should come up with a agreed upon name so it can be documented. I thought it was quality. Left side was WI4 and right side was WI3, I would guess 45 feet tall?. How about "A Fish Named Wanda"? Does anyone know more of the history?? I bet when Bill Robins was climbing in the area he tagged it a few times in better conditions. Who else could have climbed this?? My vote is to give it a historically significant name based on the history. "A Fish Called Wanda" is kinda catchy though Quote
olyclimber Posted December 5, 2006 Posted December 5, 2006 i live above those climbs, i have climbed that a couple of years ago although this is the best in 7 years. most of the ice never comes in enough to climb before it falls, due to its southern exposure. i was just down there today actually this evening. i believe that most of that stuff has been climbed in the past by locals when the weather used to be colder longer. most of the lines are fed by irrigation run off and each year they consistently try to form. maybe this guy has already named his irrigation runoff climb. baa Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted December 5, 2006 Author Posted December 5, 2006 maybe this guy has already named his irrigation runoff climb. baa My point exactly... Quote
catbirdseat Posted December 5, 2006 Posted December 5, 2006 Ordinarily, I only climb waterfalls frozen from the purest mountain spring water. Occasionally, I lower my standards and climb frozen artesian water. But this time, I was really slumming it with Weekend_Climberz. Quote
G-spotter Posted December 5, 2006 Posted December 5, 2006 You might have a delightful career ahead of you climbing septic tank overflow, boiler flush, post-nasal drip and other frozen fluids. Quote
Jason_Martin Posted December 5, 2006 Posted December 5, 2006 Bill climbed everything back there at one point or another, but he had a tendancy to only give me beta for the Washington Ice book on things that he thought were significant. Jason Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted December 5, 2006 Author Posted December 5, 2006 We should just call it "Frozen Spray", then CBS could be the "King of Frozen Spray". Quote
AlpineMonkey Posted December 5, 2006 Posted December 5, 2006 (edited) Who gives a shit if it was climbed by Bill or anyone else for that matter. The point is, its a nice fun little wall which is not documented in the WA Ice book. The name dosent matter, it should just be documented so if there is a future publication it can be included. That way the book is more complete. Call it Ice Climb A because its the first one you get to. Location: Quincy Name: Ice Climb A FA: Unknown Difficulty: WI 3/4 Description: 65 or so feet high, top out and belay from top, short walk east to descend, acess from parking lot 1, located above (such and such) lake Edited December 5, 2006 by AlpineMonkey Quote
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