G-spotter Posted November 30, 2006 Posted November 30, 2006 Trip: Hope - Frost Heave (WI2+ R) - F.A Date: Today Trip Report: So I drove out to Hope today to meet my friend Justin Brown. Justin has done rock and alpine climbing but never water ice. He showed up with a pair of old straight-shafted Grivels with tied webbing leashes. "Ok, let's climb something easy. Warm up, first route of the season, yup!" So pretty much everything in Hope is in and fat right now except for Rickets. JLTR is quite big. Moustrap is solid. But we headed over to the gas pipeline crag on the north side where there is this big low-angle flow set up that I had only seen formed once before. On close examination the big flow does not really touch down, it vanishes into some turf about a pitch up. But a subsidiary flow on the left ran up to more or less the same height so we thought maybe we could climb that and traverse over. JB at the bottom This thing had a short steep start (WI2+) and then a long slabby section with some turf and scary thin ice (WI2R). I had a couple of 10 and 13cm screws mostly in and one tied off 16cm halfway in . At the top there was a comical mantle onto a huge moss blob and then a traverse left to a belay tree (40m). Justin finishing the pitch into the bushes. Getting across to the rest of the ice looked kind of sketchy with some snow-covered prickle bushes and bare slabby granite to contend with, also Justin had just bent the tip of his Grivel at 45 degrees So we decided to call it a day. Descent was a walkoff to climbers left down a ramp. Fun fun Hope might not be in by this weekend because of this warm front coming in but it should still be in tomorrow if you need an ice fix cxlose to Bellingham or Vancouver. Like I said, pretty much everything is in and climbable at Hope*. Bridal Falls area is still forming, only Never a Bridge and the Fox/Webb looked climbable. Bridal Falls itself was running in the middle, Decent Divorce was not touching down on the middle pillar, and White Wedding had 2 or 3 icicles waiting to touchdown. Easy Intro was in but really chandeliered. There was some unclimbed stuff in and fat by the Diviner and Hunter Creek looked fat and sassy except Medusa looked a bit thin at the bottom (maybe harder than 4 right now?) Seabird is in. Tailwind is in. * Hells Lake Falls is forming, looked too thin to lead but could be toproped? Gear Notes: Stubbies Warthogs for turf if you have them Strong rated picks (I can never remember if B or T are the thicker ones) Approach Notes: Drive Highway 7 east from Hope and park at the gas pipeline. Walk back on the gated road on the north side of the slough about 200m to the obvious roadside ice. Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted November 30, 2006 Posted November 30, 2006 :tup: Can't wait for all the ice TR's coming... Quote
climbnsparky Posted November 30, 2006 Posted November 30, 2006 sorry dumb question........ where is hope?? Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted November 30, 2006 Posted November 30, 2006 Next to dispair and loathing. Also, known to be just east of Chilliwack, BC. Quote
G-spotter Posted November 30, 2006 Author Posted November 30, 2006 Hope is the last thing to come out of Pandora's Box. Quote
Dechristo Posted November 30, 2006 Posted November 30, 2006 also Justin had just bent the tip of his Grivel at 45 degrees better bent than broken Quote
TrogdortheBurninator Posted November 30, 2006 Posted November 30, 2006 Nice! Looks like a fun way to start the season. Quote
G-spotter Posted November 30, 2006 Author Posted November 30, 2006 also Justin had just bent the tip of his Grivel at 45 degrees better bent than broken You can file a break but what do you do with a bend but throw out the pick Quote
climbnsparky Posted November 30, 2006 Posted November 30, 2006 well it looks like im going ot have to make it up there. i just got my new tools and it dosent look like the cold is going to stick around long enough to freeze the gorge. Quote
G-spotter Posted November 30, 2006 Author Posted November 30, 2006 It is supposed to go up from the current -10C in Hope today, to +7C on Friday. Further up the Fraser Canyon towards Lytton, or going to Lillooet, or Pemberton, should stay cold through the weekend. Quote
Dechristo Posted November 30, 2006 Posted November 30, 2006 bend da bitch back. yeah, it fatigues the metal, but that's better than a broken pick in da middle of a pitch. [namedrop]Anker told me he wants his picks to bend, not break, for this reason presumably.[/namedrop] Quote
G-spotter Posted November 30, 2006 Author Posted November 30, 2006 How do you bend it back in the middle of the pitch - pound on it with the hammer? Sounds sketchy to me. I'd rather have a good Charlet pick that doesn't bend OR break. Quote
G-spotter Posted November 30, 2006 Author Posted November 30, 2006 Maybe I'm just not hitting stuff hard enough with them Quote
G-spotter Posted November 30, 2006 Author Posted November 30, 2006 Yeah and Adrian has www.westcoastice.com up and running again. In addition to me there were conditions reports submitted today from Squamish, Whistler, Pemberton and Pan Dome. Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted December 1, 2006 Posted December 1, 2006 WI2+ R, missed that first go round...that's some funny shizzle Quote
syudla Posted December 1, 2006 Posted December 1, 2006 also Justin had just bent the tip of his Grivel at 45 degrees better bent than broken or dropped... Quote
Dechristo Posted December 1, 2006 Posted December 1, 2006 I didn't drop the fucker, the adze hung-up on the rock during rappel and pulled out of the holster. It fucking committed suicide! Quote
powderhound Posted December 1, 2006 Posted December 1, 2006 R?????? Are you serious, only wanks add R to thier letter grade in ice. I have never seen an R rating for ice even in the winter dance guide on some nasty WI7+ alex routes, that I know he didn't get ANY gear in for a long ways. Get real man and stop the recockulous hype. Quote
syudla Posted December 1, 2006 Posted December 1, 2006 I didn't drop the fucker, the adze hung-up on the rock during rappel and pulled out of the holster. It fucking committed suicide! Better off dead? Quote
G-spotter Posted December 1, 2006 Author Posted December 1, 2006 R?????? Are you serious, only wanks add R to thier letter grade in ice. I have never seen an R rating for ice even in the winter dance guide on some nasty WI7+ alex routes, that I know he didn't get ANY gear in for a long ways. Get real man and stop the recockulous hype. Quote
Dechristo Posted December 1, 2006 Posted December 1, 2006 I didn't drop the fucker, the adze hung-up on the rock during rappel and pulled out of the holster. It fucking committed suicide! Better off dead? i think it was despondent over its bent and flacid pick Quote
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