Jump to content

bouldering woes


Recommended Posts

we will see if V15 is to be confirmed... [Wink][big Grin]


Yeah, throwin it down when it counts is awesome...i do that every night in my dreams...Oh well...


RG, I'm trying to get back in shape...I think Redmond will be the ticket under the new management...it rulez as of late...we'll see, though...tough w/ two kidz, but i've got some motivation since the wife is out running marathons right now...Didn't she realize that your supposed to take it ez when you just had a kid? [Wink]


Iain...Chain is ALWAYS under siege by a ton of people...and a sandbag is a deception-->by that definition, I wasn't sandbagging myself...I have no illusions about how bad i suck [big Grin]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 35
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

"Note that I'm basing my comments purely on bouldering at PDX rock gym, where there are V1's I can't deal with and V3's I dispatched in a few tries. Ratings seem way less consistent than yds stuff. Whatever."


The Doctor constantly hears people at the gym saying that they get walloped by problems at one grade, yet cruise problems rated harder. Something to keep in mind is that those problems might get bouldered on once before being rated (or in the case of some routesetters, not climbed at all; they just eyeball the holds and the moves and slap a rating on the tape), so it's good not to take the grades at face value. If it feels way harder than V1, then hey, it probably is!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

DFA calls bullshit on that!


Some photos taken from the other side of that problem (posted at www.hellawaysickassboulderism.com) reveal the fluffy little bastard is milking a choice wing scum on a large, flat jug. Cordless revoked his sponsorship after that one, and all the mags are like "psh, whatever, motherducker; you're damaged goods." So remember that while it looks impressive, it's not all it's quacked up to be.


[ 08-29-2002, 02:52 PM: Message edited by: Dr Flash Amazing ]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What "it?"


V15 - Dreamtime, Switzerland - FA Nicole 2001; repeats, Zangerl 2001, Graham 2002

Vive L'Evolution "Hard V15" - Zangerl 2002 - unrepeated

Black Eagle sitstart - V15 - Nicole 2002; unrepeated.


The last 2 just got put up in the last few weeks so I can see how y'all unaware types might not have heard yet.


Here is a hint surf www.8a.nu for latest Sport and Bouldering sends. Also contains some trad info like that Alex Huber just free soloed a 15 pitch 12b/c in the Dolomites

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...