Mt. Jefferson / Jefferson Park Glacier

[Know_Fear]

Trip report: climbed Jeff Park Glacier on June 2nd. The road was

blocked 3/4 miles from the trailhead (F.S. is reporting 3 miles). The

summer trail was covered with snow and difficult to find/follow. I

don't recommend it! Try the winter approach.

 

Despite hot temps the Glacier is in excellent shape. We took a direct

line left of center, and further right than most. The largest berg is

bridged by a giant chock. We proceeded directly to the ridge from

there using pickets and Alians. Easier/more difficult lines are possible.

 

The "knife edge ridge" and the summit are covered with rime. We

watched two other parties bypass the KER by staying in the gully

behind the Mohler. One party tried, but backed off of the KER. I'd

like to know if they summited... We down climbed the upper section

of the glacier then traversed east to the more popular ascent route.

 

Details - the gully behind the Mohler had some thin ice/mixed. I

placed one screw above the berg, but it wasn't necessary. I used

a second tool, but we took a more difficult line - one ice axe is

sufficient if you're confident on steep hard snow. Scout Lake to

the top of the ice fall was six hours.

[ruddersbox]

I am gonna take tele skis and hustle up the N Milk Creek Gully and most likely ski down the same way from where I came. I just have some nice boots I wanted everyone to see how good I look in them. Thanks

[ruddersbox]

Does this mean that skis are essencial to a happy round trip?

[iain]

I climbed this route just a little earlier last year and I regretted not taking skis, used the winter approach. I climbed it again not too much later than this and it was fairly melted out, used the trail! Your mileage will vary. If there is still snow on the road, I would approach from the sharp bend in the ww road to the left (which is what I think he means by the winter approach). Be careful not to cliff out around the waterfalls. I've found the best descent to be down the ridge from Smith Rock, following the edge of the Russell G. to the PCT (this requires a carryover if you camped). Do NOT exit following the Whitewater Creek drainage, an epic-maker extraordinaire.

 

-Iain

[sherpajeff]

Know Fear, when you say you, ""traversed east to the more popular ascent route" you mean you traversed to the north ridge, right?

 

Sherpa Jeff

[lisa]

Is that 3 or, 4 miles? Or, 3/4 of a mile?

[Crackman]

I'm the guy that tried the KER and backed down. We followed the other team's alternate route up the gulley. This required one short (~40ft) vertical pitch to regain the ridge. We did finally summit around 2pm. The pinnacle still was in great shape. Would have loved to have a second tool though.

[mguilfoyle]

I was in the party ahead of you that backed off the ridge and took the gully. Definitely bring pickets if you plan to climb the summit pinnacle. Like crackman said, a second tool would have been nice too. You will need the pickets for anchors. Still lots of snow up there! No rock protection needed. (you can't see much rock yet)

Crackman, did you guys decend the North Ridge?

[sbrook]

Crackman and I descended the same route we climbed. As it was our first time up there, it was difficult to figure out where the alternatives were and with the time getting late, we went with what we knew. The down climbing was definitly interesting!

 

Thank goodness for the the 2 cans of Red Bull back at camp to give us the energy for the slog out of there.

 

SB

[texplorer]

Nice job crackman, steve, and Matt. Haven't seen you guys in awhile but great to hear you guys are still pimpin it in the backcountry. I tried the route last year as well in the early season. My parnter, Zenolith, and I were turned back by the same rime ice on the ridge and really high winds. The conditions can change quickly however up there. Just a few weeks after our attempt I saw pics of the ridge completely free of ice. Hopefully I'll be going back to send this fine route later this year.

Carpe Diem

[S_Carter]

I was up there early June 2 after ascending the North Milk Creek and saw two groups come over the Jeff Park glacier. Glad to know someone summited. I didn't do the pinnacle myself as I was soloing. I should have waited awhile and maybe I could have hitched a ride. Milk Creek Gully has a lot of avalanche debris in it now but still is a good ski descent. There are a couple of waterfalls that come out of nowhere at around 7000' though.