scottgg Posted October 26, 2006 Share Posted October 26, 2006 Anyone done this route, or have any beta to share? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbb Posted October 26, 2006 Share Posted October 26, 2006 loren and jens did it a long time ago: http://www.cascadeclimber.com/east_face.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pms Posted October 26, 2006 Share Posted October 26, 2006 dry-tool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbb Posted October 26, 2006 Share Posted October 26, 2006 did you guys find any climbable ice on that thing beyond the first slab? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pms Posted October 27, 2006 Share Posted October 27, 2006 ice climbing on der toof are you kidding me. perhaps you have heard of the mighty electric chair? no ice there either only snice. seriously though the 1st pitch is classic mixed. fun looking at Loren's TR. when is someone going to venture onto the wickedness a little right of the original east face route? a larger meaner Rap Wall perhaps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottgg Posted October 27, 2006 Author Share Posted October 27, 2006 Hey Jim and Dave How about a topo? Maybe we'll consider this climb as a recon for a winter attempt! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ade Posted October 27, 2006 Share Posted October 27, 2006 Been on my list for ages. Jim's winter ascent got a small write up in Beckey I believe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottgg Posted October 29, 2006 Author Share Posted October 29, 2006 My brother and I checked it out on Saturday, but found the slab covered in snow and the first pitch running with water. Looks like a really cool route, cant wait to do it. Currently, there is snow from about 4500' and up, south face was dry though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RocNoggin Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 I have done the route in summer, but I couldnt tell you a thing about it in winter. it was scarry good fun when we did it! rockfall cutting the rope, partner getting sick, taking the wrong variation, long runouts on crappy pro...good times! LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottgg Posted December 6, 2006 Author Share Posted December 6, 2006 Checked out the East Face again this past Sunday, we climbed 4 fun pitches before bailing. I know lots of folks have this gem on their list, and I can't wait to get back, maybe after winter's official start....  First Pitch  Marko rockin the challenging 2nd pitch  Looking down from our high point Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted December 6, 2006 Share Posted December 6, 2006 Very nice :tup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbb Posted December 6, 2006 Share Posted December 6, 2006 nice man, looks spicy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RocNoggin Posted December 20, 2006 Share Posted December 20, 2006 wow, sure looks different in winter from summer! (duh) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimbingPanther Posted December 20, 2006 Share Posted December 20, 2006 I'm pretty sure there is a winter TR somewhere though I'm not taking the time to look. I seem to remember reading it either before or right after I and my partner tried it last winter. We found very thin, nuisance ice and weren't confident enough to do it without bomber pro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted December 23, 2006 Share Posted December 23, 2006 About 10 years ago, some dude told me about climbing it free in winter. He rated it (M5). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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