matt_warfield Posted October 25, 2006 Share Posted October 25, 2006 An LA Times' story mentions a harness failure, which seems improbable but consistent with the rappel device and carabiner still on the rope. We'll have to see. The article also discusses the near miss he and Piana had on the summit of El Cap when their anchor boulder dislodged and rolled off the face. Todd had a great climbing legacy and his work in the early climbing videos was impressive and entertaining. RIP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainmatt Posted October 26, 2006 Share Posted October 26, 2006 More info from ESPN of all places: http://sports.espn.go.com/sports/news/story?id=2638842 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted October 26, 2006 Share Posted October 26, 2006 This is a truely sad event. I too saw Todd at the old vertical club and his FFA of the Salathe and accompanying Climbing magazine article still provides me inspiration. I still have the article and will probably read it tonight, have a beer and a bit of a cry. RIP Todd, you will be missed. I am going to crack a beer and say a prayer, RIP Todd. peace to his family and may we all keep Todds enthusiasm in our hearts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted October 26, 2006 Share Posted October 26, 2006 An LA Times' story mentions a harness failure, which seems improbable but consistent with the rappel device and carabiner still on the rope. I've never liked belay loops, or for that matter, any single piece of equipment which upon failure could imply disaster. I've always used a home-made harness with 2" webbing combined with commercially manufactured leg loops. I replace the 2" swami every year, and I back it up with a 1" chalk bag strap. That still leaves a single locking 'biner and a single belay device...and a single rope. I suppose you can't eliminate every possible weak link in the chain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted October 26, 2006 Share Posted October 26, 2006 Belay loops are OFTEN (maybe always?) TWO loops sewn together to make what looks like one -- so there's some redundancy in there, although it looks like a single piece to fail... Perhaps this analysis-type talk should move to a separate thread, however? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon Posted October 26, 2006 Share Posted October 26, 2006 I saw Todd give a slide show at the Mountaineers, I think in '98. It was pretty damn inspiring, I actually still remember a lot of what he showed. I found myself getting out more after it. Regardless of what people think of his ethics he definately didn't waste his time on this planet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raindawg Posted October 26, 2006 Share Posted October 26, 2006 I saw Todd give a slide show at the Mountaineers, I think in '98. It was pretty damn inspiring, I actually still remember a lot of what he showed. I found myself getting out more after it. Regardless of what people think of his ethics he definitely didn't waste his time on this planet. Ditto. I didn't always agree with his style, but he definately LIVED THE LIFE! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericb Posted October 26, 2006 Share Posted October 26, 2006 (edited) Update....looks like it has been confirmed that it was his old worn belay loop that failed. http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?file=/c/a/2006/10/26/CLIMBER.TMP "It's really affecting the climbing community because harness failure is pretty unusual -- it is not supposed to happen," said Ken Yager, president and founder of Yosemite Climbing Association. "It's gotten people thinking about their old harnesses now. I know I'm going to go out and buy a new one." The part that broke, called the belay loop, is designed to be the strongest part of the climbing harness, but Hewett, 34, said Skinner's harness was old. "It was actually very worn," Hewett said. "I'd noted it a few days before, and he was aware it was something to be concerned about." Friends of Skinner said he had ordered several new harnesses but they hadn't yet arrived in the mail. On Monday's climb, Hewitt said the belay loop snapped while Skinner was hanging in midair underneath an overhanging ledge. "I knew exactly what had happened right when it happened," he said. "It was just disbelief. It was too surreal." Stunned and in shock after watching his friend fall, he checked his equipment. "I wanted to make sure that what had caused the accident wasn't going to happen to me," he said. "I then went down as quick as I could." Edited October 26, 2006 by ericb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted October 26, 2006 Share Posted October 26, 2006 Todd used to be the first one up in JT. He'd be doing laps on the ski tracks. Always a kick. RIP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gary_hehn Posted October 26, 2006 Share Posted October 26, 2006 Personally, I've never used a belay loop, but of course have been belayed from them. They've always made me a bit nervous for some reason, but I've always felt that my concerns were unfounded. This is like a worst nightmare come true! I know that others have felt the same and backed them up with another loop. I feel terrible hearing about this tragedy. Thoughts and prayers to all affected ... rest in peace Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith_Henson Posted October 29, 2006 Share Posted October 29, 2006 NPR story today: Todd Skinner, Free-Climbing Pioneer http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=6397277 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geek_the_Greek Posted October 30, 2006 Share Posted October 30, 2006 That's a nice NPR story (interview with Paul Piana). Thanks for posting the link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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