bigwallben Posted September 3, 2006 Posted September 3, 2006 For anyone you was nailed by clods of dirt, sticker bushes and other botanical debris at the Lower Wall during the last couple of weeks...sorry. We have cleaned up some old classics. Pitches cleaned are 3rd, 4th, 5th pitches of tpmv, Cheeseburgers on trial, Stiff Kittens (pin replaced), Journey to pitar, and the Full and complete Japenese Gardens. Let's see some traffic up there! Ben Quote
Wallstein Posted September 4, 2006 Posted September 4, 2006 Whatcha replace the pin for on Stiff Kitten? Grey tcus and black aliens and rps seemed to work. The pin should make it a little bit more chill though. Its to bad nobody does that one. i cleaned it 3 years ago and I don't know if it had been climbed since. Way to put some time in up there ben! I'll be back for 2 days next week. I hope i can make it out there. mikey Quote
jshamster Posted September 4, 2006 Posted September 4, 2006 Is that why one of the hangers and chains on Japanese Gardens short is missing? If not, anyone else know why? Quote
narrowarrow Posted September 5, 2006 Posted September 5, 2006 Nice work. How is the last pitch of JG's? Quote
bigwallben Posted September 5, 2006 Author Posted September 5, 2006 Is that why one of the hangers and chains on Japanese Gardens short is missing? If not, anyone else know why? I don't know anything about missing gear on the flake anchor. But, since Sagittarius has four anchors to choose from...then perhaps you should make a mini-short Japanese anchor...and then one above the 11.b crux...just in case someone can climb 11.b, but not the 11.c crux. Ben Quote
RuMR Posted September 5, 2006 Posted September 5, 2006 calling Kevbone! your services are required... Quote
bigwallben Posted September 6, 2006 Author Posted September 6, 2006 Whatcha replace the pin for on Stiff Kitten? Grey tcus and black aliens and rps seemed to work. The pin should make it a little bit more chill though. Its to bad nobody does that one. i cleaned it 3 years ago and I don't know if it had been climbed since. Way to put some time in up there ben! I'll be back for 2 days next week. I hope i can make it out there. mikey Mike, This is the first pin I have ever placed. You might want to bounce test it ... Ben Quote
Blake Posted September 6, 2006 Posted September 6, 2006 got some dirt and sand dropped on us on godzilla saturday afternoon, but nothing too big. hope the clean new routes get some use! Quote
Blake Posted September 6, 2006 Posted September 6, 2006 got some dirt and sand dropped on us on godzilla sunday afternoon, but nothing too big. hope the clean new routes get some use! Quote
soulreaper Posted September 6, 2006 Posted September 6, 2006 If any more anchors get placed on that wall they are going to start reproducing. This may have already happened on Sagittarius. Also: Unless I'm mistaken, the Japanese Gardens "short" anchor was not always there; it was originally, I believe, a single bolt protecting the traverse on the TMPV 11+ linkup variation. That aside, stealing hardware is still irresponsible. Quote
bigwallben Posted September 6, 2006 Author Posted September 6, 2006 soulreaper, you are right. the single bolt was for tmpv. hopefully, the missing hardware was allocated to a worthy cause. speaking of reproducing anchors...check out the area up above the tunnel at the country! There are like five or six anchors within a very small area...just below that crack that someone bolted (angoro grotto i believe). i feel very tempted to start 'stealing' B Quote
backcountrydog Posted September 6, 2006 Posted September 6, 2006 ben the only extra anchor in the area you are talking about above the tunnel is at the base of angoro grotto. this is so that (imo) if you are doing the full tunnel vision or cunning stunt and want to do angoro grotto, you can move up to that next anchor without tying up either of the previous climbs anchors and/or rope drag (which isnt all that bad, but who cares anyway). all the rest of the anchors are at the top of climbs... and we were talking about this at my house shortly before the person who bolted that area showed up...so why not talk about it then, say something directly to him? you've been crying about anchors all summer long, and seeing how you've never put up a new route, placed a bolt, or replaced an anchor, maybe you oughta chill out a little. cleaning a couple routes doesnt make you experienced at developing. and i call bullshit on you not knowing anything about the jg anchor... chris Quote
bigwallben Posted September 7, 2006 Author Posted September 7, 2006 Ouch Chris, can't we get along neighbor? Really though...I don't know anything about that missing gear. That said, I am sure your more experienced self can get to the top of the first pitch of Japenese Gardens. Tell CC I said hello. Ben Quote
backcountrydog Posted September 7, 2006 Posted September 7, 2006 of course we can get along...if you dont 'clean' anymore anchors. the 5.9 jg anchor didnt bum my trip out. im of the 'clip it or dont' mentality. im still in e.wash so the cc greets will have to wait. lish is dead btw for all those that knew Quote
soulreaper Posted September 10, 2006 Posted September 10, 2006 I'll be the first to assert that Ben didn't "clean" (a.k.a., STEAL) any hardware. I don't see why this needs to turn into yet another frivolous (online) argument. That hardware could have been stolen by literally anyone with a rope and a pair of vice grips. We all know the cliff has tons of anchors; the best things we can do are to maintain existing hardware properly and to avoid placing unnecessary hardware in the future. As far as stealing goes, we all know it's bullshit and that it shouldn't happen. Theft necessitates the placement of (more expensive) cold shuts that are semi-permanent and difficult to remove/replace. Even if we're not putting up new routes (most of the wall has been "routed" already) we still are aware of both the implications and the maintenance concerns of fixed anchors. Most of the development at this point is "retro" cleaning and rebolting anyway. I think the recent action at Index has been awesome and I don't think I had to be around in the early 90's to validate my opinion (I had other responsibilities like elementary school). I wish we could all partake in this without all the petty squabbling because it's just more fun that way. Quote
eric8 Posted September 11, 2006 Posted September 11, 2006 do any of you know if Klaus von Bulow is resonnably clean? Guidebook seems to make mention of this as being an alternative to sloe children. Quote
soulreaper Posted September 11, 2006 Posted September 11, 2006 As far as I know, Klaus Van Bulow is climbably clean at this point. There may be some dirt at the bottom and I may be wrong, but I remember it looking so. Yet another (similar) alternative pitch is the 3rd pitch of Japanese Gardens, which is one of the routes that has recently been scrubbed. It is just left of Klaus and is an 11a flared fingercrack with a roof. Quote
bigwallben Posted September 12, 2006 Author Posted September 12, 2006 I concur, Klaus is definitely clean and climbable. Quote
eric8 Posted September 12, 2006 Posted September 12, 2006 awesome! thanks guys have to hit those two up this fall than. Quote
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