AlpineMonkey Posted August 30, 2006 Share Posted August 30, 2006 Climb: Orange Tower-Orange Wall (New leavenworth routes) Date of Climb: 7/16/2006 Trip Report: Pete Doorish and I spent a couple days up in the Knitting Needles climbing various rocks. Finally talked about the rattings and we have some disagreement, but thats ok. The yellow and red routes are supper fun, great quality routes. The rock is very clean, lichen free, and perfect cracks. "Rock as good as Prusik," one might say...The other two routes are good, but not as asthetic. Pete stayed up there a few days after me and soloed some more towers, but this is what we climbed together. He thinks the yellow one is a 5.10+ and the red is an 11+. I say there both just solid sustained 10a and 11a. I lead the pitches so I'm sticking with my rattings. All of them were done free and clean with no falls or pulling on gear. We did place one bolt on the yellow route near the top. Wall is between 450 and 500 feet high. Gear Notes: Double set of cams to #3, 1-4 friends. Approach Notes: a long and steep pain in the ass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted August 30, 2006 Share Posted August 30, 2006 Nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted August 30, 2006 Share Posted August 30, 2006 Name dropper! Good work dude! I know you have been looking forward to this trip all summer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted August 30, 2006 Share Posted August 30, 2006 Its good to know the rumor of Pete Doorish's demise was greatly exaggerated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineMonkey Posted August 30, 2006 Author Share Posted August 30, 2006 Thinking about naming the yellow route Clockwork Orange, after a 1962 novel "A Clockwork Orange" by Anthony Burgess, later made into a movie. I don't really have any ideas for the others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted August 30, 2006 Share Posted August 30, 2006 How many pitches? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suckbm Posted August 30, 2006 Share Posted August 30, 2006 DirtyHarry picture says 3 pitches. I think clockwork orange is a way hard bouldering problem at red rocks. Wouldnt want to name a route after a bouldering problem that was named after the movie which was named after the book. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted August 30, 2006 Share Posted August 30, 2006 Thinking about naming the yellow route Clockwork Orange, after a 1962 novel "A Clockwork Orange" by Anthony Burgess, later made into a movie. I don't really have any ideas for the others. How about: 1.Stairway to Heaven 2.Bridal Veil Falls 3.Lunch Ledge 4.The Cockscomb 5.Horsetail Falls 6.Orange is the New Black for 2006 colors this year I'd go with Stairway to Heaven though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted August 30, 2006 Share Posted August 30, 2006 DirtyHarry picture says 3 pitches. I think clockwork orange is a way hard bouldering problem at red rocks. Wouldnt want to name a route after a bouldering problem that was named after the movie which was named after the book. Wut up Eric man, There's a route in Kootenai Canyon, Montana, called Rockwork Orange, but that's a pretty gay name. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted August 30, 2006 Share Posted August 30, 2006 Why not call it Scary Orange Alien Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hemp22 Posted August 30, 2006 Share Posted August 30, 2006 Excellent climbs. consider naming a route "Redneck Mimosa", after a delicious libation that's made from mixing PBR & Orange Juice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted August 30, 2006 Share Posted August 30, 2006 nice work. Onsite FA alpine .11+ (or even .11a) is pretty impressive. Where exactly is this place? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineMonkey Posted August 30, 2006 Author Share Posted August 30, 2006 Its up Ingalls Creek, Stuart Range kind of. My partner had rapelled down from the top about three months prior to see if the line would go. He told me that he tried to self belay the pitch and would do a move, hang, do a move, hang, the whole way up. He told me it looked like hard 11 or 12. I gave it a onsight try and thought it more like 11-. So I had his word that there was a crack for pro the whole way, but that was it. He had to jug the entire pitch while following. Ive never had so much fun on a pitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwrts Posted September 1, 2006 Share Posted September 1, 2006 WTF does "kind of" mean? I thought it was in the knitting needles, which makes it Stuart Range, mos def. Another fine job btw. Gawd I Hate my Job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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