[TR] Orange Tower- Orange Wall (New routes) 7/16/2006

[AlpineMonkey]

Climb: Orange Tower-Orange Wall (New leavenworth routes)

 

Date of Climb: 7/16/2006

 

Trip Report:

Pete Doorish and I spent a couple days up in the Knitting Needles climbing various rocks. Finally talked about the rattings and we have some disagreement, but thats ok. The yellow and red routes are supper fun, great quality routes. The rock is very clean, lichen free, and perfect cracks. "Rock as good as Prusik," one might say...The other two routes are good, but not as asthetic. Pete stayed up there a few days after me and soloed some more towers, but this is what we climbed together. He thinks the yellow one is a 5.10+ and the red is an 11+. I say there both just solid sustained 10a and 11a. I lead the pitches so I'm sticking with my rattings. All of them were done free and clean with no falls or pulling on gear. We did place one bolt on the yellow route near the top. Wall is between 450 and 500 feet high.

 

 

Gear Notes:

Double set of cams to #3, 1-4 friends.

 

Approach Notes:

a long and steep pain in the ass

[layton]

Nice!

[John Frieh]

Name dropper!

 

Good work dude! I know you have been looking forward to this trip all summer

[olyclimber]

Its good to know the rumor of Pete Doorish's demise was greatly exaggerated.

[AlpineMonkey]

Thinking about naming the yellow route Clockwork Orange, after a 1962 novel "A Clockwork Orange" by Anthony Burgess, later made into a movie. I don't really have any ideas for the others.

[DirtyHarry]

How many pitches?

[suckbm]

DirtyHarry picture says 3 pitches. I think clockwork orange is a way hard bouldering problem at red rocks. Wouldnt want to name a route after a bouldering problem that was named after the movie which was named after the book.

[layton]

Thinking about naming the yellow route Clockwork Orange, after a 1962 novel "A Clockwork Orange" by Anthony Burgess, later made into a movie. I don't really have any ideas for the others.

 

How about:

1.Stairway to Heaven

2.Bridal Veil Falls

3.Lunch Ledge

4.The Cockscomb

5.Horsetail Falls

6.Orange is the New Black for 2006 colors this year

 

I'd go with Stairway to Heaven though...

[DirtyHarry]

DirtyHarry picture says 3 pitches. I think clockwork orange is a way hard bouldering problem at red rocks. Wouldnt want to name a route after a bouldering problem that was named after the movie which was named after the book.

 

Wut up Eric man,

 

There's a route in Kootenai Canyon, Montana, called Rockwork Orange, but that's a pretty gay name.

[G-spotter]

Why not call it Scary Orange Alien

[hemp22]

Excellent climbs.

 

consider naming a route "Redneck Mimosa", after a delicious libation that's made from mixing PBR & Orange Juice.

[Blake]

nice work. Onsite FA alpine .11+ (or even .11a) is pretty impressive. Where exactly is this place?

[AlpineMonkey]

Its up Ingalls Creek, Stuart Range kind of.

 

My partner had rapelled down from the top about three months prior to see if the line would go. He told me that he tried to self belay the pitch and would do a move, hang, do a move, hang, the whole way up. He told me it looked like hard 11 or 12. I gave it a onsight try and thought it more like 11-. So I had his word that there was a crack for pro the whole way, but that was it. He had to jug the entire pitch while following. Ive never had so much fun on a pitch.

[bwrts]

WTF does "kind of" mean? I thought it was in the knitting needles, which makes it Stuart Range, mos def. Another fine job btw. Gawd I Hate my Job.