[TR] Wedge Mountain-FA

[AlpineMonkey]

Climb: Wedge Mountain-Buttress (Southeast Buttress) - FA

 

Date of Climb: 8/22/2006

 

Trip Report:

 

Grade II, 5.9

 

 

Countless variations could be made, but we made every effort to climb directly up the middle of the buttress. We didn’t always go the easiest way, nor the hardest but climbed the coolest, most aesthetic looking rocks we encountered.

 

 

And many short pitches later we tackled the final buttress headwall.

 

 

It was hear that we peered over the usual sights of the Enchantment Peaks and Lakes, content with what we had climbed. My roommates first mountain climb, and a first ascent at that.

 

Gear Notes:

Slings, few cams

 

Approach Notes:

Follow old logging rd

Edited August 30, 2006 by AlpineMonkey

[scottgg]

Nice! Where is Wedge Mountain and what kind of a rating did you give the route?

[AlpineMonkey]

Its right above Snow Lake in the Enchantments. I would rate it Grade II, 5.9. Though it could definately be easier or harder, depending on what cracks you followed. It looks like there could be some good winter climbing on the face. Yoder did a couple of winter and rock routes back in the 80's. We did that South facing couloir last winter which was fun too.

[dan_forester]

countdown to DirtyHarry and Dru downgrading it to Grade I, 5.5...go!

 

Just kidding - nice job; like that first picture!

[AlpineMonkey]

If they did, they would earn my respect and I would call them badass cascade hardmen and bow down to them forever.

 

[cappellini]

nice...i would bet however briody has climbed that butress..he and others around here have climbed numerous "unreported routes" up there...i myself have climbed up there near your dots...nevertheless, nice place hugh?

[DirtyHarry]

I was hoping you'd chime in on the veracity of the FA claim.

[cappellini]

hey kids have to dream you know..its just part of becoming jaded

[Off_White]

Isn't that part of the theory behind unreported routes, so others can have the FA experience too? Of course, that tends to fall apart when someone else bolts the snot out of your unreported FA, but it's less of an issue with a backcountry route than some nondescript Icicle quasi roadside bump.

 

Sounds like you guys had a good adventure.

[olyclimber]

you might want to rethink the name there craig. after all, how many people do you want climbing "craig's butt"?

[rat]

looks like a fun lark.

 

cappellini is full of shit, not to mention a foul mood. he was climbing on the face over to the right. though he does have a point.....gordon et.al. have done all sorts of undocumented "stupid pieces of dirt" in the area. but, of course, he is a "poser".

 

looks like you guys went in from hansel creek (maybe on bikes?). you may already know this, but the old "centennial trail" that starts at the end of the logging road on the mill creek/allen creek divide might be a quicker option if you head back there anytime soon.

[rat]

wtf, where did layton's entertaining diatribe go? sarcasm is truth. you moderators really know how to gut a trip report.

[bwrts]

Is this where the nasty ice occasionally forms during the winter?