[TR] Mount Stuart- NE Face 8/6/2006

[AlpineMonkey]

Climb: Mount Stuart-NE Face

 

Date of Climb: 8/6/2006

 

Trip Report:

 

Travis Hammond and I worked a line up the rarely climbed NE Face of Mount Stuart. This being my third attempt, once last winter and then again two weeks ago when my partner forgot to bring pants.

 

Mosquitoes were mildly bad, weather was perfect. Saw lots of climbers on the N. Ridge and took some pretty rad pictures of N. Ridge climbers. If that was you up there, drop me a message and I’ll get you some pics.

 

The climbing was mostly moderate with some tough pitches. A few baseball size rocks came ripping by very fast and close on several occasions, falling from high on the face. Large snow patches are still present higher up, but we were able to avoid them. Other then a few route finding f-ups on my part, all went well.

 

Our route was possibly a new upper variation to the face, right of the Beckey NE Face of False Summit route. 11 hours from camp to summit, estimated Grade IV, 5.10. I had lots of fun.

 

 

Gear Notes:

Crampons and tool for glacier

 

Approach Notes:

Ingalls Lake - fast and easy

[JayB]

Nice. Impressive. Post some of those pics when you get a chance.

[scottgg]

Did you go over the northridge notch from goats pass, or around the toe of the north ridge and up the icecliff proper?

[John Frieh]

two weeks ago when my partner forgot to bring pants

 

 

So who is the dumbass?

 

Oh... wait... nevermind...

 

Good work monkey! Don't forget you have to climb the NW Spur and any new routes that someone might put up oh... say this year to have all the routes on the north side!

 

When you gonna tick a direct start to the ICA? A plum waiting to be picked!

[olyclimber]

Good jorb on this climbing stuff! I'm almost done with my class, then lets go climb Argonaut dammit.

[DirtyHarry]

pics or Scurlock photo showing route would be cool.

[AlpineMonkey]

Anyone know if that upper part was anything new? Never saw a single sign of anyone being anywhere on the face. I can't tell if thats the Beckey NE of False or what. I assume he was more to the left on the face, we sort of worked up dihedrals along the edge of the snow. Anyways, it was a good interesting climb for us.

[AlpineMonkey]

Some pictures, my camera can't handel the bright light.

 

 

The route, blue approach, red ascent:

 

Travis low on the face:

 

Snow slab on mid face traverse:

 

A nice dihedral pitch.

 

Upper snow slabs:

[goatboy]

Please post a few of the "rad images" of the North Ridge if you don't mind doing so. Thanks.

[pms]

That looks like fun stuff Monkey. Like DH says there is some some nice looking rock on that face. Eve Dearborne and I climbed the Mahre route I think it is, finishing with the Gendarme in late season in about 83 I think.

 

I hadn't seen your tr from Feb. That looks really nice. I think I recognize some of the terrain in your pics. I think you were very close to the summit. I think I bivied just above your high point with Cotter and Pilling one time. There might be some steep unclimbed terrain on the lower part of that face. Might even be some cracks there. cheers