[TR] Johannesberg- CJ couloir & mixed to east ridge solo 8/1/2006

[Jens]

Climb: Johannesberg-CJ couloir & mixed to east ridge solo

 

Date of Climb: 8/1/2006

 

Trip Report:

J-berg is a mountain that stirs the passion for high places in me. Today I decided to get out for some peace and quiet and enjoy the voyage solo. I was contemplating the Northeast buttress but I wasn't in the mood to bushwack up the mountain. I left the car at 3am and began to breathe and get into a rythmn up the c-j couloir. The clouds were in thick. Eventually I reached a large section where the couloir had melted out for about 500 vertical feet. A short mixed section above a bottomless moat at about 5.8 led off the couloir to the right. Excitement factor was high as the rock was wet and loose and crampons were on. I reagined the couloir and climbed through a section of ice to reach the col. Freshly fallen snow was all around making Cascade peak look like a miniture Dru. The east ridge climb to the summit was enjoyable. Their was one other party's entry this year. Upon return to the col, the clouds were so heavily socked in that I could not see 20 yards ahead. I opted to return down the CJ and to the lot instead trying to feel my way to Doug's Direct. Ibailed on my plan to continue on to Cascade, triplets, and mixup due to visibility.

I'll try to post some pics tomorrow morning.

 

Gear Notes:

Simond axe

steel crampons

bugs were not bad at all.

 

Approach Notes:

One big Icefall came down the C-J couloir

(didn't hit me!)

[Alpinfox]

One big Icefall came down the C-J couloir

(didn't hit me!)

 

 

Glad you are still with us Jens.

[d65k]

Steve Trent and I were the other party to ascend Johannesberg on June 22. The CJ coulior was in great shape then. The descent via the gully between Mixup and Triplets is okay although rap anchors are not abundant. We down climbed most of the gully.

[Weekend_Climberz]

Reason 1689 that Jens is a badass.

 

Sorry we didn't connect for the bugs.

[scottgg]

Sweet Jens, so when are we getting out on the Torment-Forbiden Traverse?

[JoshK]

You seem to have an obsession with climbing under icefalls on j-berg, eh?

 

You have pictures of the fresh snow?

[Jens]

Yes, the pictures of the fresh snow are barely visible on my picture of Cascade peak in the gallery section.

[Lowell_Skoog]

Some years ago I soloed Cascade Peak via the C-J couloir. One of my very few mountain solos. I found a good route around the narrows in the couloir (where you found it melted out) on the climber's left. Leave the couloir to the left well below where it narrows and climb the rocky hump on that side. This gets you above the narrows (a bad section for rock and ice fall) with just class 3 climbing. I also descended the route that way.

 

I experienced some scary rockfall higher in the couloir, where there was some exposed ice. It can be a hazardous place.

[Trent]

Jens: Sitting here in Iraq dreaming of the Cascades. Please keep the reports coming; I something to take my mind off of the sandstorms.

[Jens]

Jens: Sitting here in Iraq dreaming of the Cascades. Please keep the reports coming; I something to take my mind off of the sandstorms.

I thought you said your box was going to be air conditioned!

[Blake]

Thanks for the TR, I thought i saw freshiez on Boston and Sahale on Monday.