nerdom Posted June 11, 2001 Posted June 11, 2001 Anybody out there done Liberty Crack on Liberty Bell Mtn recently? Any info on the approach, conditions, etc.? Planning on being there mid-July. Any beta, past or present, would be helpful! Quote
ScottP Posted June 11, 2001 Posted June 11, 2001 It's been a few years, but... Take a selection of hooks for the crux third pitch. When we did it, there was a fixed copperhead, but it was small and not really that fixed. The sixth pitch: I suggest you don't belay right at the base of the pitch (it is a bit loose). There is an alternate stance up and to the right as you look at the pitch. We finished it after fixing to the top of the third. 3 hours to fix and 9 hours to jug and finish the next day. Quote
scott Posted June 11, 2001 Posted June 11, 2001 hb offset brassies for the second pitch- a couple of the smaller (but not smallest) sizes- and smaller (purple and blue) tcu for the second pitch. you only need one hook, a black diamond skyhook is it. and the pitch over the rotten block- stay in the corner and go over the little roof- don't go out left toward the old bolt anchor with (last i checked) red webbing on it. this was, i thought, the freeclimbing crux for me and was about 10- or 5.9 A0. the fourth pitch is kind of steep and hard for 10b. i guess you should bring an extra head and chisel and hammer in case someone pulled the fixed gear off the third pitch as a souvenier. it isn't A3. its 5.9 C2 and goes quicker than you would think looking up at it. [This message has been edited by scott (edited 06-11-2001).] Quote
specialed Posted June 11, 2001 Posted June 11, 2001 The approach is way heinous. Plan on spending atleast a full day on it. Expect technical ice and possible open crevasses. No seriously, its like 30 minutes from car to the base and way chill. Probably want an axe and boots though for the last part though. Park at a shitty turnoff by mosquito infested pond about 1/4 mile east of visitors center. Bring extra supply of blood to replenish what the mosquitos take out. Good strategy is to fix to top of pitch four on the first day, getting most of the aid out of the way. Then go light and fast on the second day. But most of the whole thing is freeable except for Lithuanian lip and the pitch afterwards. [This message has been edited by specialed (edited 06-11-2001).] Quote
Sargent_Rock Posted June 12, 2001 Posted June 12, 2001 I have climbed Liberty Crack 8 times over the last 15 years and could give you lots of beta. But you know, the first time I climbed it was the best (before I learned the many "tricks" that enabled last year's "speedy" ascent). With the on-sight ascent we took a long time, and despite fixed pitches, darkness covered the rock before we we're able to finished the last ropelength. This timing mandated rapels across moonlite quartz crystals, and a long, tortuous, thirsty decent to a 4AM "party" with "cold ones" at the Van. It would be my pleasure to give you all the beta you might need (including gear selection, belay stations considerations, best summer weather patterns, and safe lunar cycles), but I think you'll have more fun if you just go to the base, uncoil the rope and go for it. Quote
haireball Posted June 12, 2001 Posted June 12, 2001 I know the usual style is to fix a few pitches, sleep on the ground, and then finish in a single push, but I have very much enjoyed bivouacing in a small "cave" at the end of pitch 8 the two times I've done this route. The second time, it snowed about 6 inches, but the cave stayed dry. If you don't mind going a bit slower and hauling, it makes for a fabulous night! Room for two to sit with legs dangling over the edge (ledge is about the size of the back seat of a compact car), and very well sheltered. Quote
nerdom Posted June 12, 2001 Author Posted June 12, 2001 Dudes, thanks for all the info. I haven't been on it yet, but my partner got weathered off last year. I'm SO looking forward to it! Quote
Dru Posted June 12, 2001 Posted June 12, 2001 Since when is Liberty Crack in the "Southern Washington Cascades" anyways? Quote
nerdom Posted June 12, 2001 Author Posted June 12, 2001 Yeah, my bad. My geography sucks. So does this mean that I should disregard all the previous beta? Quote
zoroastr Posted June 14, 2004 Posted June 14, 2004 Spent a nice afternoon on the Becky Route yesterday, and after finishing the climb, we drove down the road a bit in order to gape, slack-jawed, at the Crack route. As a relative newb, I'm still trying to get my mind around the idea that people actually climb routes like this. One possible benefit of having succeeded on the "Crack:" if you ever find yourself on trial for murder, your CC trip report can be offered as conclusive evidence for insanity... Quote
layton Posted June 14, 2004 Posted June 14, 2004 Spent a nice afternoon on the Becky Route yesterday, and after finishing the climb, we drove down the road a bit in order to gape, slack-jawed, at the Crack route. As a relative newb, I'm still trying to get my mind around the idea that people actually climb routes like this. One possible benefit of having succeeded on the "Crack:" if you ever find yourself on trial for murder, your CC trip report can be offered as conclusive evidence for insanity... Naw dude, it's ain't so bad! Good point on the trial thingy. God help me if the prosecuting attorneys ever gotta hold of this site. Quote
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