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nerdom

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Everything posted by nerdom

  1. But be forewarned that it's a LONG approach, as Rainier trade routes go. Also, forego Camp Shurman for the Emmons Flats.
  2. I'll second the camping on the summit sweetness! Stayed a night up there after doing the Fuhrer Finger 2 summers ago. Awesome (overused word, but totally appropriate in this case) experience. Descended the DC w/o too much difficulty re: RMI hordes.
  3. Fantastic TR and pics. After three years in a row out to the PNW to climb alpine, it's been two years since I've been back. Reports like this make me realize how much I want to go back. Next year . . . (heading back to the Tetons this summer for the third year in a row; hmmm, I'm seeing a pattern here . . .)
  4. From Friday's Seattle PI: One Mt. Rainier climber dies, one rescued THE ASSOCIATED PRESS Jon Cahill, who died in a climbing accident on Mt. Rainier in Washington state Thursday, June 3, 2004, is shown in this undated photo provided by the Auburn, Wash., Fire Dept., where he was a fire captain and an acting battalion chief. Cahill, a father of four, had died by the time a rescue party reached him and his climbing partner, who were stranded at 11,300 feet. Cahill's death came a little more than two weeks after a climber was fatally injured in a fall from the same ridge about 1,000feet higher. (AP Photo/Courtesy Auburn Fire Dept.) MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK, Wash. -- A firefighter who fell 200 feet during a recreational climb on Mount Rainier died before frantic rescuers could reach him. Jon Cahill, 40, a fire captain and father of four, fell to his death Thursday, about two weeks after another person perished on the same route, one of the mountain's most dangerous. Cahill's climbing partner, Mark H. Anderson, 33, was rescued by helicopter and flown to a hospital for treatment of a hand injury. He was in satisfactory condition late Thursday. Cahill fell on Liberty Ridge, about 11,300 feet up the 14,410-foot peak. Rescue climbers and an Oregon National Guard helicopter rushed to reach him, but by the time the helicopter arrived, he was dead, said Mount Rainier National Park spokesman Barry Fraissinet. Cahill and Anderson, also both trained as emergency medical technicians, had planned to reach the summit by midmorning Thursday. It was not immediately known what caused Cahill's fall. Kimberly McDonald, a spokeswoman for the Auburn Fire Department, said Cahill had climbed Rainier 25 times. He was married with four children and had been with the department since 1989. "He was like a family member to all of us," she said. Mount Rainier head ranger Jill Hawk said Cahill had climbed the Liberty Ridge route on Rainier's north side more than a half dozen times. "Our hearts go out to their families," she said. "It's truly a tragic situation." On May 15 on the same ridge, Peter Cooley tumbled down a steep, icy slope and hit his head on a rock spur. His climbing partner, Scott Richards, maneuvered the two of them to a tiny flat spot, but the Maine men were stranded for two days as temperatures dipped below freezing in whiteout conditions. Cooley, 39, was picked up by a National Guard helicopter May 17 from the 12,300-foot level but died on the way to a hospital. Accompanied by two rangers, Richards hiked down to a glacier the following day and was picked up by a helicopter. Cahill's death during a summit ascent of Mount Rainier was the 91st since 1887, when records were first kept.
  5. Petzl Shunt works well, and is cheap ($40). No chest harness required. Weight the bottom of the rope with your pack/gear/water bottle. Not to be used on overhanging routes, though.
  6. I heard about the successful "rescue" of these guys this morning on, of all places, the Weather Channel!! Good to hear they're safe and sound.
  7. I had heard somewhere that Lou once guided Robert Kennedy up Rainier and became friends with him, and that JFK granted the exclusive concession. Apocryphal, I know, but it's what someone had related to me. Actually, this link provides some support for this story: RFK, Jr.
  8. Damn, guys, best thread I've seen in this forum, ever. Great stuff. Always for me the question arises "do I have what it takes?" Answering that question in the affirmative by the doing of the deed is the most satisfying feeling imaginable. Rock on, gentlemen, rock on . . .
  9. Americans don't have accents.
  10. gerg and bug -- sweet TR's!!! I love reading shit like this! I'm off to the Tetons tomorrow to attempt the Grand Traverse. Hopefully I'll have equally cool stories to tell . . .
  11. damn, gotta figure this UBB shit out . . . [ 08-02-2002, 06:40 AM: Message edited by: nerdom ]
  12. lucky bastard. I am always envious, being an east coaster, when I read the great TR's and see cool pics like yours! My once a year trip out your way just doesn't cut it! Be out there next week to do the Fuhrer Finger and N. Ridge of Baker!
  13. Anybody else been up the N. Ridge lately? I'll be there next week (Rainier 8-10; Baker 11-13). Just trying to get up-to-date info on the route condition.
  14. What 4 peaks have you done? Which routes? Did you summit? How long will you be in town?
  15. No shame in using guide for frist time on Rainier. RMI has bad rap because they're cattle herders. Many really don't give a shit if you make it our not; many are burned out from climbing it day in and day out and dealing with all sort of people (read: idiots). I've heard horror stories from folks about their guides. The mountain is already in late season shape -- really broken up -- so September will really be pushing it this year. As for being is shape, this mountain is capable of killing you -- you want to be in the best shape possible. All that cardio is good, but the approach is the hardest part: spend adequate time schlepping a 55-65 pound pack up 2500 or more vertical feet. Take gingko. Have fun, it's a spectacular mountain -- I can't wait to try Liberty Ridge next year!
  16. Just did the Emmons-Winthrop on July 20th. It's broken up but in good shape. Russell Cliff did not look good. Rock was falling all over that thing while we were there.
  17. Chop every bolt on every route capable of being climbed clean. Leave the bolting to the choss piles. my $.02
  18. Heading out your way tomorrow to do Liberty Crack on Monday, Rainier (Emmons) Wed.-Fri., and weather and energy permitting, Adams on Sat. (probably South Spur). Been waiting for this week for 6 months now!!! WOOHOO!
  19. I heard recently about the deaths of 4 firefighters in the N. Cascades (sad), and heard that one of the larger fires was in this national forest. Checking a topo map I found, it looks like Liberty Bell Mountain borders Okanogan County. Does anybody know if these fires are impacting access to Liberty Bell in any way? Excuse my ignorance of the local geography! (I'm scheduled to give Liberty Crack a go this coming week).
  20. Dred: Which route did you do? I'm scheduled to do Liberty Crack on Monday. Do you know what condition it's in? How about the snow patch at the base, is there anything there this year?
  21. Ouch! Not nearly as gruesome as losing fingers, but here goes: Okay, my buddies Jay and Kevin and I are out mountain biking in the gnarliest downpour you've ever seen. Jay hits this rock/log ramp, gets air, and comes down funny. I was standing to the side, slightly above, (I had wiped out just before the ramp and just cleared out of the way), and watched his left leg get trapped under his top tube when his foot wouldn't release from his pedal. It looked just like Joe Thiesman's leg when LT made that infamous MNF hit. In fact, I shouted, "Holy shit, he pulled a Theisman!" (not the most appropriate statement under the circumstances). Kevin rushed out of the woods (some 4-5 miles of tough singletrack) to get medical attention, while I laid there on the ground with Jay, his ankle pointing in a completely unatural direction. For nearly three hours, he laid there in a puddle of mud and rainwater, getting poured on, without muttering so much as a single complaint about the pain. Funnily, the first thing he said when it happened was, "My wife's going to kill me." Turns out, his ankle was simultaneously broken and dislocated. It took a metal plate and several long metal screws to put it back together again, and 6 weeks of not working (his wife did want to kill him), but I'm happy to report that he's back in the saddle.
  22. If any of you Pac Nor'westers ever make it to the East Coast to climb at the Gunks -- in the fall -- drop by the Gilded Otter Brewery in Downtown New Paltz and have Rachel mix you up a "Stumpkin": one part seasonal Pumpkin Ale, one part (award-winning) Stonehouse Stout, all brewed on the premises. Absolutely sublime!
  23. If Donna Cock-Block is as hot and fickle as you guys say she is, where can I get a piece of this action?!
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