layton Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 Bailed on both this weekend, might go back, might not? There was a homemade bail bolt 1/3 of the way up the W.Face Wall of the West ridge of Stuart with "1997" stamped on it. We bailed there too. Extremely steep hard climbing to that point, even steeper and harder above. May require lots of cleaning or aid/bolts. Who tried that route? Also, the center of the S.Face of Big Kangaroo has a mindblowinly steep line up the center of it (looks like almost 100% aid or 5.12-5.14 crack) marred only by massive chimneys at the top, and about a 50 foot section of blankness 100' off the deck to get in the line. There was a bolt with some white tat on it before the crack starts. Doesn't look like that person/party went higher than that since I'd expect at least a few more bolts. Who attempted that line? I'll post pics after a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 Does cleaning make steep and hard low-angle and easy? Find any Neutrinos up there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted June 29, 2006 Author Share Posted June 29, 2006 NW Face of W ridge on stuart, route in direct center. S.Face Center on Big Kangaroo. Crack goes up and under l side of big roof. Blank below crack (not shown in photo). Warning: the col requires a rapell of a pin, and re-climbing it is eXtra sketchy right now (5.9 hyperchoss, double moat, death block top-out, hand-jamming in ice) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 mmmmmmmmm...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 farmer tan! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordop Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 So both lines were 5.10d X then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 Great photos, I always thought that thing on Stuart looked PDH. Thanks for the TR. It would appear you've worked through your fear of trad? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted June 29, 2006 Author Share Posted June 29, 2006 yeah, we just scrathed the surface up to our high point. Anyone know who's been on those two routes (kanga, and stu) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 I was looking at that wall last summer on our way to the NW face. In fact, I think I told you about it. Thief! Oh well, its still yet to be completed ... Where is the line you climbed in relation to the line in Beckey's CAG, circa 1970(?)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted June 29, 2006 Author Share Posted June 29, 2006 just right of center, immediately right of the huge yellow roof. The 1968 route goes up more of the ridge on the left side of the face. The wall is more like 900 feet tall in the center, instead of beckeys 600' est. We started up a splitter hand/fist crack almost immediately below the tree which headed up and left through an overhang/squeeze, did a handrail and up. It's the most obvious line up the middle of the wall, besides the chundle corner dead center Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 Thats a long way to hike for a four pitch route! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted June 29, 2006 Author Share Posted June 29, 2006 I didn't steal it. I just wanted to climb it before you did so I could write up a little instruction manual to help you. Anyway, if you did tell me, so did Mark. So it's his fault. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 Mike - Why dont you move this to the Alpine Lakes forum so people looking for Stuart TRs will have an easier time finding it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 Kangaroo is in North Cascades PP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 National Park, not Provincial Park. Fucking monarchists, geez. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 Peter Puget is a monarchist? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 Ya but 95% of the post is Stuart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted June 30, 2006 Author Share Posted June 30, 2006 I don't know how to move it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 Yike, I forgot you don't have the same option I do. If you want it moved you'll have to ask one of the mods for this forum for assistance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted June 30, 2006 Author Share Posted June 30, 2006 If I don't move it will I get a ticket? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 You'll be towed! I just get frustrated when looking for things and they are in the wrong forum! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted June 30, 2006 Author Share Posted June 30, 2006 well you know where to look now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 what are you guys talking about? Don't make me move this to spray! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattStan Posted July 1, 2006 Share Posted July 1, 2006 Two guys from the Cle Elum area did a route up the center of the face on Stuart in the mid-1990s (can't remember specifically if it was 1997), with a bolt here and there from what I understand. I believe they did top out on the wall, but without freeing their line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted July 1, 2006 Author Share Posted July 1, 2006 That may have been it, although the place where the bolt we saw was totally completly unecessary. There were multiple bomber cracks to build an anchor and a good stance. Why someone would hand drill a bolt there and waste so much time is beyond me. What also makes me think that this route is uncompleted is exactly 150' below that bolt is a tree with webbing on it. Why would they leave the webbign on the tree? Above the bolt was a dirty and bottoming crack that said "bail here lest you suffer" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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