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Posted
What's it like up there? Are there places to dirtbag it? Is it possible to find a place late on a Friday night? I'm thinking of heading up there this weekend.

Remember that you will be competing with many other dirtbags who will be crossing the border for the 4th of July. Bring fireworks.

Posted
you can camp out on the spit (off of dirt roads behind the Save On Grocery store) for free, and you wake up to an amazing view. just over 5 minutes from the chief parking lot.

 

There are limited sites on the spit. Most all of them will be taken by the time you get there. You will end up sleeping in a puddle and wake up with at least a dozen slugs crawling over you. Also bears swim across the river at night and attacked someone there last year. The Spit Sux.

 

If you want to dirtbag it, drive past the Hydro Project on the Mamquam road. At least 10 km.

Posted

The last time I eyeballed the spit for camping there was just too much evidence of rowdy hooligans and vandalism for me and my then gf to feel safe camping there. Seemed the further out on the spit one went the worse it got. We did camp one night closer in on the spit. It seemed to get a LOT of traffic til about 3am...kids looking for a party or friends.

 

then, of course, there's this: Squamish Thread

Posted

We drove up some 4WD dirt road that paralleled a popular kayak river. There were a number of nice spots along the road and in the morning there were ruby throated hummingbirds everywhere! Getting to the crags takes a little longer but it's a nice quiet camping spot.

Posted (edited)

Now any suggestions for routes in the 5.8 - 5.9 range? Sport or trad is fine. I have the 2001 edition of McLane's guide, but it's a lot to look through.

Edited by jfreeburg
Posted

Had a great weekend up there. Friday night we camped off the road to the landfill (unknowingly) on a mountain bike trail (knowingly). In the middle of the night, we were woken up by a large object coming down the trail (I was thinking/hoping a mad late-night mountain biker or maybe just a deer). In the morning, 2 different groups of runners came by and said they were glad to see we weren't attacked by bears, being that we were just across the street from the landfill.

 

Moral of the story: don't camp off the road to the landfill. It's free, but it's bear country.

 

PS. We camped at the base of Chief Saturday night.

Posted
Moral of the story: don't camp off the road to the landfill. It's free, but it's bear country.

All of Whistler is bear country! Most summers, there's usually 50 or so living around the village and on the two mountains.

Posted

I didn't see any bears on Diedre. How'd you know I climbed there? It's not like anyone else goes there. We made it to the start of the climb around 7am on Sunday and had only 2 groups ahead of us (we passed another on the trail up since as they got off track). By the time we topped out, there was a group at every belay station as well as some waiting at the bottom. It pays to get up early if you don't want to be sandwiched in between groups.

 

Saturday we climbed at the Smoke Bluffs. Only after deciding on Burger and Fries did we see the note about it being one of the most popular slabs in Canada. But there's so many routes up there, we never had to wait to climb. We also did a 5.9 (Old Age) next to the Zombie Roof. It's a great mix of slab, crack, and chimney at the top.

 

So we were just one of the many this weekend, but an absolutely great time had by all. Don't miss the yam fries at the Howe Sound Brewpup- almost better than the climbing.

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