Forbidden West Ridge conditions?

[slamole]

Any body know the condition of the couloir going up to the west ridge on Forbidden? How late does it generally stay in good shape? Thanks for any insight!

[chucK]

Here's a reasonably current trip report with some great pictures

[jshamster]

To all interested parties that won't/can't go look for themselves.

I spent yesterday in the Torment/Boston basins basically just solo rambling. Did half of ridge between Torment/Forbidden, and a bunch of exploring.

 

Then current conditions are great. There is still a good amount of snow everywhere, making access up the Unnamed Glacier very easy. The approach couloir to W. Ridge Forbidden is getting some holes in it, but should be fine early in the morning. Little bit of snow on W. Ridge, but easily bypassed.

I didn't climb the first half of Torment/Forbidden travers, but looking back at the snowfields the look STEEP! The hot weather will hopefully kick of one more good slide back there.

 

Have fun out there.

Jimbo

[Zoran]

Few guys from Vancouver and Squamish are right now on the ridge.

They left yesterday afternoon and plan is to return tonight. I'll post some details for you ASAP.

Z

[fenderfour]

W. ridge of Forbidden is in good shape. A few moats have opened up in the couloir, but nothing insurmountable.

 

There were a lot of people up there this morning.

 

Go do it and have fun.

[Weekend_Climberz]

Go get it man.

 

Looks to be in it's prime right now. Might be a tad warm during the day.

[Juan]

About 10 of us climbed W. Ridge of Forbidden on Sat. 6/24 and about 12-15 yesterday from what we could tell. The gully is fine -- some holes appearing as mentioned above, but nothing major.

 

J'Berg N.E. Rib is in great shape from what I could see. The gash below the arete has plenty of snow which will allow people to rap in and climb it instead of doing the harder 5.8 ("5.3") rock variation to the left.

 

Cheers to all,

 

John Sharp

[Weekend_Climberz]

About 10 of us climbed W. Ridge of Forbidden on Sat. 6/24

 

Cheers to all,

 

John Sharp

 

We saw your name on the list of registrants Friday night. Did you have to park at the gate or was it open before you got there?

[Juan]

Hey:

 

I had to park at the gate after talking to the road cleaner guy Friday mid-morning. They weren't ready for cars at that point. By the time my wife arrived and bumbled around, the gate was open, so she parked at the TH. Were you on the route?

 

John

[Weekend_Climberz]

We did N. Face Buckner on Saturday via Sharkfin Col. We bivied on top and descended Sunday via Horseshoe Basin, Sahale Arm, and then Cascade Pass. Man it was hot yesterday, and the 32 switchbacks on Cascade Pass trail are mind numming.

[philfort]

How's the snow holding up on Buckner's N face? Gnarly schrunds and icy runnels, or smooth corn?

[Off_White]

Hey, you sound like a skier. Watch out for ropes.

[Weekend_Climberz]

How's the snow holding up on Buckner's N face? Gnarly schrunds and icy runnels, or smooth corn?

 

It's melting quick, and on the climber's right there's a lot of deep chutes and a few good size glide cracks. It could still go with ski's as of yesterday though. I'll post a few pics tonight when I get them from the photo place.

[philfort]

Hey, you sound like a skier. Watch out for ropes.

 

I eat climber's ropes for breakfast.

[Off_White]

Curious about E Face ledge descent: any snow left on this? On the offhand chance that someone did the E Ridge Direct in rock shoes a few days hence, would they be happy descending this way without boots, axe, or crampons?

 

I assume we're still snowy/gushy enough that one would want boots for travel in the upper bits of Boston Basin... It's still too early for tennie season up there isn't it?

[fenderfour]

There is still a lot of snow on the E Ridge direct approach. I'm pretty sure the ledges on the NE side were pretty clear. I looked down at them from the summit before we went back to our bivies at the W. ridge notch.

 

There were a LOT of people up there last weekend. About half went down the E. Ledges.

[JERRY_SANCHEZ]

I did the West Ridge yesterday and the snow is melting fast. The moat in the couloir has collapsed but it is not that big of an issue to get around it. The only concern is the stuff (rock/snow) that falls down in the couloir. We had a big chuck of snow crashing down on us. There is still fair amount of snow in the couloir but it will not last that long. I would say in 3 weeks or less depending on how long this hot weather trend will last.

 

I would say to do the route now. The west ridge rock is in perfect conditons. Be weary on some of the rappel anchors with slings. The rock moved when we try to rappel off of it.

 

The east ridge looks good and probably better to descend then going down that couloir in the hot afternoon. There is still fair amount snow on the east ridge approach.

[goatboy]

Climbed it on July 1 and found the schrund crossing to be "interesting."

 

For me, it was nice to have two tools to surmount this section. The biggest concern was knocking big ice blocks down onto my belayer, which I managed to avoid.

 

[Gary_Yngve]

East ledges are completely snow-free.

 

Forbidden was surprisingly empty this weekend. I think only four parties total on the E/W ridges.

 

Triumph, on the other hand, was full permit-wise. Go figure.

[colt45]

Climbed the W Ridge today (7/8/06). The couloir is straightforward; 40-50 degree snow with a 10' icy step (aka the bergschrund) 2/3 of the way up, which is easily bypassed on the left via a couple of class 4 moves on juggy, solid rock. There is even a fixed rappel anchor here which can be used to protect this section. We exited to the right above the step, and scrambled (class 3/4) to the ridgecrest. Gear for couloir=axe+crampons; brought a picket but didn't use it. My guess is that the couloir will be "in" for a couple more weeks or so.

[IceScrewed]

While I hate to be contrary, in a year like this the couloir is really 'in' in October...