NEW Smith Rock Guidebook!!!

[EWolfe]

Should be coming out soon...

 

Another Thesenga stupid move in a classic area, IMO.

Although Alan has become the "artisan sportclimbing grandfather", and we're all waiting for the "masterpiece"...

Discuss.

[billcoe]

Should be coming out soon...

 

Another Thesenga stupid move in a classic area, IMO.

Although Alan has become the "artisan sportclimbing grandfather", and we're all waiting for the "masterpiece"...

Discuss.

 

 

Explain?

[Peter_Puget]

when I paint my masterpiece

[larrythellama]

looks good to me.

[G-spotter]

280 crowded routes at Smith. With best Bivis marked on Super Slab descent for Gary.

 

When is the SuperTaco guide coming out with the beta on which finger goes in which drill hole?

[billcoe]

Thanks for the link. What a bunch of shit.

 

Check out the gear list for the East Face of Monkee.

 

I quote: "For Gear, bring loads of jumbo fist-sized cams, big bros, #11 hexes.......oh, and maybe a couple of RP's."

 

Attempt at being "humorous" ??

 

How would you like to buy and haul all that huge crap over from Europe or Oz and find out that the biggest piece on the entire route is a single 3/4" and you are about 12 RPS short of even getting on the first pitch if you backclean?

 

HA HA HA NOT

 

What an asshole.

I hope that the Watts book comes out soon and these dudes lose money.

[G-spotter]

Bill, who the fuck would buy hexes and tube chocks in Europe anyway?

[billcoe]

Bill, who the fuck would buy hexes and tube chocks in Europe anyway?

 

If somebody told me to bring Big bros and big cams to do a route, I'd be buying them for sure before traveling 3000 miles to a strange locale. Thats the high ticket stuff too. Like 60 a piece or so x 10 pieces = $600 us, or $4,000 Canadian.

 

Thats a long way too, 3000 miles is like ...........hmmmmmmmmmmm 5 million Kilometers or so, (calculated for our friends to the north), pretty far.

 

(course I already have the tube chocks and big hexes)

[TimL]

Bill, who the fuck would buy hexes and tube chocks in Europe anyway?

 

I might

[archenemy]

Bill, who the fuck would buy hexes and tube chocks in Europe anyway?

 

If somebody told me to bring Big bros and big cams to do a route, I'd be buying them for sure before traveling 3000 miles to a strange locale. Thats the high ticket stuff too. Like 60 a piece or so x 10 pieces = $600 us, or $4,000 Canadian.

 

Thats a long way too, 3000 miles is like ...........hmmmmmmmmmmm 5 million Kilometers or so, (calculated for our friends to the north), pretty far.

 

(course I already have the tube chocks and big hexes)

[dan_forester]

yeah, Bill...I thought it was a pretty dumb joke too. Not that I'll be ever climbing the east face of the monkey, but that kind of thing does seem out of place in a guidebook.

[EWolfe]

I understand the frustration with the delays to Alan's Guide, but it is not like there isn't a guidebook and supplement existing.

Alan has worked really hard to make his next edition a real masterpiece by redoing all of his excellent line drawings. People just keep putting up routes.

 

I agree that guidebook gear requirement listings is NO PLACE for humor, just as Joshua Tree is no place for pyromanaical Climbing editors.

[matt_m]

Anyone climbing 13d will be experienced enough to read the "grievously thin" description and know about this famous route. The sarcasm is pretty thick there. People just don't like Thesenga (I'm not a fan nor am I a hater)

Humor about a route that is unreachable for most (because of its thin-ness is amusing to some) To each their own.... Now if his humor causes confusion throughout the book - I'll be peeved too

 

Get over the Supertopo - it's here to stay. Yes it can get a lot of gumbies on stuff they shouldn't and causes cues on some stuff but it's useful and liked by others as well. I've got limited time and don't want to waste it - Less adventurous? Perhaps, but part of the fun is pulling out a nice printed supertopo, watching to "hard party" roll their eyes when they walk up and ask deaming questions only to never see them again until they show up several hours behind in the parking lot. Last time I offered them a beer - They drank their words that day.

[EWolfe]

Anyone climbing 13d will be experienced enough to read the "grievously thin" description and know about this famous route. The sarcasm is pretty thick there. People just don't like Thesenga (I'm not a fan nor am I a hater)

Humor about a route that is unreachable for most

 

FYI, it's a great clean aid route - not so unreachable.

[LUCKY]

Ah!! JT what an search rock climbing .com I would not buy a book from him or subscribe to a mag with him on the staff.

[billcoe]

Anyone climbing 13d will be experienced enough to read the "grievously thin" description and know about this famous route. The sarcasm is pretty thick there. People just don't like Thesenga (I'm not a fan nor am I a hater)

 

Matt, I wind up having to just shut the F* up on all this stuff in the end anyway when somebody gets rude and tells me to just shut the F* up, so I probably should do it now, but here goes then I'm done.

 

2 issues, this book will be for people coming for a week or 2 of special vacation from say, Switzerland, or some equally strange place who only want to bang out the best climbs. You think they will figure out these insider nuances, but hey, they're Swiss for Gods sake. Won't happen for some folks.

 

As far as this 1 description goes, he talks about the crux 13C tips, but then discussed 12D at the start and 5.10 to finish, no talk of what you are looking at with that. There could be 200 feet of 4" wide crack. When Watts first did it, he described the crux as very technical jamming. I could see Euros buying in to Teresngas description and bringin wide gear. Maybe not. But it seem rude as hell to assume everyone will just catch the little joke and not get F*in the ass IMO.

 

I don't have a problem with JT generally, and I suspect he's a great guy in person: but I will say that in this instance, it seems like an attempt at an outsider to cash in on the internationalism of the place for a quick buck, and it will serve to concentrate people on the better routes, thus screwing over the locals. (Not that any dudes from Der Schweitz are complaining. )

 

 

I probably come off as quite the whinner there!

 

Sigh: C'est la Vie!

[larrythellama]

i tend to bring a pretty good selection of gear when going climbing in general. for the most part i tend to scope the route before racking up to see if anything other then what i would bring on like 99% of all climbs i do will be needed. though sometimes those nuiances escape me. tragic.

[matt_m]

Anyone climbing 13d will be experienced enough to read the "grievously thin" description and know about this famous route. The sarcasm is pretty thick there. People just don't like Thesenga (I'm not a fan nor am I a hater)

 

 

 

Matt, I wind up having to just shut the F* up on all this stuff in the end anyway when somebody gets rude and tells me to just shut the F* up, so I probably should do it now, but here goes then I'm done.

 

2 issues, this book will be for people coming for a week or 2 of special vacation from say, Switzerland, or some equally strange place who only want to bang out the best climbs. You think they will figure out these insider nuances, but hey, they're Swiss for Gods sake. Won't happen for some folks.

 

As far as this 1 description goes, he talks about the crux 13C tips, but then discussed 12D at the start and 5.10 to finish, no talk of what you are looking at with that. There could be 200 feet of 4" wide crack. When Watts first did it, he described the crux as very technical jamming. I could see Euros buying in to Teresngas description and bringin wide gear. Maybe not. But it seem rude as hell to assume everyone will just catch the little joke and not get F*in the ass IMO.

 

I don't have a problem with JT generally, and I suspect he's a great guy in person: but I will say that in this instance, it seems like an attempt at an outsider to cash in on the internationalism of the place for a quick buck, and it will serve to concentrate people on the better routes, thus screwing over the locals. (Not that any dudes from Der Schweitz are complaining. )

 

 

I probably come off as quite the whinner there!

 

Sigh: C'est la Vie!

 

Not telling anyone to shut up - just voicing a different view. Completely agree that miss information in the wrong place is poor form. If he drops things like this on other routes that more people would try, yes it deserves criticism. I'll maintain however that a 13d trad climb has a VERY VERY limited audience and said audience wouldn't drop a lot of $$ on wide gear without further info (which, since trotters 04 climb is pretty available). This would be like beta on trench warfare saying 5.12d "The notorious 4+ inch offwidth roof crack. 40 feet of kick-throughs and fist stacks lead to a rest before the final section of... more of the same. Pro: lots of RPs oh and maybe some big cams. Classic."

[texplorer]

Here we go again. . .