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Stuart/Dragontail Conditions?


TimL

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NolanR, Dru and all those other curious males,

Maybe you could ask CC-Admins to make a rule that require all those whom state themselves as females lift their skirts before entering the forum. I mean, whatever would women want in a Climbing forum. We all know that girls can't climb... right? rolleyes.gif

[This message has been edited by Lhotse (edited 05-27-2001).]

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Donna, are you going to take this crap? Can you believe what this A-Pipe just said? Guess he never heard any of the Cirque Expedition stories, 'bout how Donna was "sending the sickness" day after day, in the worst conditions (iced-up, loose, polished rock with not a real crack system anywhere). Then, after an alpine start and after a taxing day on the sharp end of the rope, she'd return to camp and make sure nobdy got any sleep, if you know what I mean. With the train of climbers rolling through her tent each night, Donna became known as "the Alpine Express". I don't think Donna's mother would have been very proud of the way she made herself everybody's girlfriend. And by the way, Donna, tell your mother to stop calling me.

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Hey, "pope"! You are a L-O-S-E-R!!!!!

It's about time you acknowledged my contributions to your stupid expedition, but the only "Alpine Express" I recall was your routine of heading for your tent when there was work to be done. Let me see, "high-altitude headache" (which didn't keep you from blasting your boom-box at high decibels), "lethargy" (i.e. hang-over) and "stomach cramps" (probably from drinking the water you made from snow next to a previous expedition's latrine). As for my mother calling you, she wants the cookware and two folding chairs you "borrowed" from her, or just send her $100 for replacement costs and I promise she'll never want to call you again.

As for you Iambone, thanks for the warning! It might be wise for me to hold back from the Stuart Range this summer just to avoid you. A lot of people on this list seem to like to accuse people of being "elitist". In your case, Mr. Bone, you seem to think "dorks" and "fools" don't belong in the mountains. Therefore, you either fall into one of those two categories and should stay home, or you are sufficiently arrogant, experienced and self-confident to refer to strangers you have neither met in the mountains or elsewhere as such. (Are you still in high school?)

Whatever....

- D.

 

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On Saturday, May 27, the upper portion of the Stuart Glacier Couloir was significantly melted out. A lot of loose rock was exposed that I believe would not normally be exposed for a few more months. A few large blocks that fell leave me wondering if I have to retire my rope. For those wondering about the North Ridge, it still had a bunch of snow on it; give it another couple weeks.

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Lhotse,

Girls can't climb? I never insinuated anything like that. I just wish I saw more of them in the mountains. As for this website, it's mostly mindless entertainment, it's just interesting to get a different perspective from female climbers. We're at at least 3, and counting...

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Got good veiw of entire N Ridge Stuart on Sunday 1-3-01 from high on 8-mile buttress. Could see from Gendarme to the very toe of ridge, the summit was in clouds. Still quite a bit of snow hanging on ledges. The long low angle slabs E side of ridge between the 5.7 pinnacle to the base of gendarme are completely loaded to ridge line, though there is a large fracture in the snow field I didnt see three weeks ago. Looks like its starting to break up. The standard rap gully right to avoid gendarme is all snow. It looked like the upper mounatin got a slight dusting at the weekend.

Dave

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The Ice Cliff Glacier was in excellent condition on Sunday, June 3. It has actually benefitted from the small snowpack, because there is a lot of ice to be climbed (like a normal August), but the bergshrunds are still easily crossed (like any spring). We went up the far left side of the glacier, and I would rate it AI3. The Couloir to gain the ridge crest was actually the best snow climb I have ever done, as about 500 ft. of 50-60 degree perfect neve. I would reccomend taking four ice screws, three 2 ft. pickets, and two just-in-case pins.

By the way, the entire north side of the mountain has a bunch of snow on it (and some ice also formed in the last few days), so an attempt on the north ridge would be premature I think.

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