LhotseDreems

Awesome.... great TR and photos! Enjoyed it, thanks for sharing!

Awesome! .. great shots and great TR Enjoyed reading about it. I've been looking to do this for sometime. But, I couldn't find a partner. Who needs a partner when you can do it solo? Right on!

It's called a search engine... Awesome work SAR/MR you guys are rockin' it I hope that the other two are merely missplaced at the moment and will come home with a helluva story soon. My sympathies to the James family.

I work in the apartment biz. Send me a PM if you want a some help. There are good locations in that price range all over the King Co. area.

"Will do MattP, but when there is partner a route, I will be there. What else is right there that is cool. Cause Serpentine will be one of the two we are there. So speak or forever hold you peace." What!? I want some of whatever it is you're drinkin'! I think there was a question in there.. somewhere. Colchuck has some good routes. Then there always is Colchuck Balanced Rock. I'd recommend a Beckey guide or one of the Nelson books. I liked Serp Arete - a little chossy towards the top, but over all a satisfying route. Maybe not a "classic" but it was fun, nonetheless. Now Backbone looks like it maybe in the "classic" catergory - haven't been on it, but it's a gorgeous line.

Thanks CK - i appreciate the beta.

CM3 - Thanks for the beta, nice day in the hills! Quick question... did you notice what shape the N. Face of Buckner was in? And how the North Ridge of Forbidden looked? Thanks!

Thanks for the beta guys. Quick question, anyone notice what shape the N. Face of Buckner is in? Oh, one more Were there avy's coming off the N. Ridge? Thanks! (and if you feel like answering questions, what shape was the approach in? Thanks!)

I agree, SK, i like mine better too! Thank you! What's up with this horsecock thing? You bunch of sicko horsecock lovers. OK - "when in Rome..." right? So, what qualifies one as "horsecock lover"??

Thank you SK, exactly. Sayjay, i actually appreciated your post about female climbers. Thanks for the brew And apparently my "Harem" comment wasn't looked upon as humor as intended... my sincere appologies RURP - you remind me of a grouchy (climer) grandpa like figure, i rather like the mystique and think of you fondly typing away... with a large grin on your face. I would now like to point out the fact that you didn't really disagree with anything i said, you seemed to enjoy clarifying it. Nice job with that. And at what point did i say i was a feminist??? I just don't like when people label *all* things one way when clearly there are going to be exceptions to the rule. But, i have to say the "RURP HAS SPOKEN" thing has gotta go, who do you think you are? Jesus, God... greater?? While i appreciate what Rurps can do, i hardly hold them in such esteem. -Lhotse has ceased speaking.. for the time being-

At the risk of sounding out of the loop.... i've noticed there are some new Member Status titles going on, boys..... and i'm mystified. Most of them are obvious enough. But, i'm not sure what I am. I tried some guess: Hellion Climber Lover - which would fit, i suppose the title is a little unweildy however. Hard C*** Lover, sure it works for me, but some of the others may be offended. ... maybe i should stop now.

I've gone back and forth feeling agitation by some peoples reactions (particularly the feminist comments.) and agreeing with others. I can see valid points in nearly everyones posts (other than the feminist comments...) And i'd like to say, Lambone, i've never met ya but am very glad you and your harem are alive and well. I'm sorry that this sh*t happened, and that you are being put front and center. I'm happy that people (very much myself included) are using this as a learning experience... i'm frustrated at some of the mudslinging. My take, as a female ... and as a climber that goes climbing with almost exclusively her boyfriend (see post entitled "LETS GO CLIMBING!") is that Lambone had personal feelings involved and made a decision, and a wise one. Even if he didn't pull the c-phone out and dial the digits. Would all you wankers (as you seem to enjoy calling yourselves) rather be sitting around saying "Too bad Lambone hadn't had his cel phont..." or Matt having to deal with someone elses, less experienced, death. Who's to judge him, were you in that exact situation?? It's easy to point fingers, isn't it. And to think, Matt, you didn't scare your fiance away, either. I think you took a difficult situation and made the best desicion available. But, i do have to ask. Who pays for the rescue? Lambone, you slapped with the sightseeing bill?

------------------------------ The Tooth is a very fine sub-alpine climb. It should be enjoyed by everyone. ------------------------------ ... and is.

Hi there, I've decided to ditch my shell in search of some new climbing partners. I don't have any plans for the weekend and would love some idea's. I'm pretty sorry on rock at the moment, but with a few sessions at a crag i'd get back to 5.10 sport leads, 5.9 gear and i'll follow at about .11... some might consider this sorry, but, 'eh, we do what we can. My favorite being alpine rock (no, not the damn Tooth!) ... Vesper might be fun for a day trip this next Sat. or Sun. So, if this sounds at all interesting lemme know. I'd love to find other female climbers interested in alpine climbing and maybe someone interested in a week long BPing trip. Email me at LhotseDreams@attbi.com Thanks!

Some friends got to high camp via the White River approach... they turned around there as the route itself was in pretty bad shape.

LawGoddess, We rapped U-Wall, and i would not recommend it to a friend (i'll assume you're a friend ... i'd take *any* other choice. The route traverses making it just about impossible and excedingly scary, not to mention expensive. You'll end up leavin' some gear. Fun route, tho. Have a good time

Dave, i think we went up similar to how you guys did it (Nelsons Guides instruction, to the right. BTW, was it a typo his book called it the "East Butt" as opposed to the "NE Butt"?) however there was only a snow finger going up to a large (200ft?) waterfall. We bushwacked for a couple of hours finally imerging to wet slabs (4th class) and more waterfalls. Bivying a little too low, in hindsight, we started up (scrambling through some more wet slabs and mud, we may have gone too far to the right?) and took too long to gain the glacier we decided to be prudent and turned around. We wouldn't have had time to top out and get back down, considering we don't know what the decent conditions were going to look like. (I think this turned out to be a lucky turn in fate, as my headlamp pooped out and wouldn't start the rest of the trip.) We hiked in from Bridgecreek as well... i wouldn't have guessed it would be so expensive to go in from Chelan, but there's a lot to be said for beer at the end of a long trail! But the extra 10mi. adds on some beautiful wildflower hillsides... bears... blisters... something to be said for that too.

Hey there David (or anyone who has topped out on Goode) just out of curiosity i was wondering how you finished the approach. After you cross the N. Fork of Bridge Creek how did you get up the slabs? We went up there and got hosed.

I didn't do a damned thing to prevent blisters this weekend.... and i recommend against this method. I'm with you alison! My feet look like filet mignon, plus i got some interesting looks limping into the General Store to pick up munchies... barefoot.

Hey There, Anyone have some good beta on the complete N. Ridge of Stuart? We have the raw info i was just looking for any little key bits you may have learned the hard way. Thanks!

The digital camera we have {Canon Elph S110) is so far really cool, no problems with it at all. I think my favorite aspect is that you can hook it up to the TV and use it to show your pictures... no need for slides anymore. It's especially cool on the larger TV's

Hey, thanks Smoker. You are truly the last "nice guy". You'd be nicer if you'd go get 'em for me.... Lani

John, No, we're from Renton. .. someone else loose their poles, too?? Glad that your shoes stayed there We think we saw the dudes that took 'em. They were just wondering around looking very out of place, but being on the 2nd pitch we weren't in a good position to do much. Thanks. Lani

Dan, Thanks for sharing in our pain, Nick wants to know if he can now borrow some poles for next weekend?? We did the Face, and it was actually a good time. I particularly liked the mixed traverse on the 3rd pitch, but most of the "fun" was left up to my partner. Hey, thanks for breakin' in the trail

Hey guys. Just some info. Yesterday while climbing Chair Peak we left our poles in the bowl just below the switchbacks up to the notch, we'd pick 'em up on our way down. Well, when we got back, they weren't there anymore. Man, that really sucks. We didn't leave 'em there haphazardly either, rather in a neat pile awaiting our return. If you have heard of anyone scoring some poles (we assume they were not climbers) please ask them to return them. LhotseDreams@aol.com Also, it may be a good idea to watch where you ditch your ski's and stuff from now on.