remlec Posted September 30, 2002 Share Posted September 30, 2002 I was wandering on Garfield (south route)this weekend and noticed the summit register had several claims of 2 3/4 to 3 hr car to summit. True? Should I just cave in and toss out my hikers now? It took me ... considerably ... longer. Also, any knowledge of the south face? Pete Doorish has a multi day 5.9 just right of the south ridge also noted in the register. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Posted September 30, 2002 Share Posted September 30, 2002 In September 2001, I climbed the South Route with friends Andreas, Greg, and Sean. We climbed fairly fast, and managed 5:20 car-to-car. I believe that it was 2:45 car-to-summit, but it might have been 3:00. Andreas, Greg, and Sean all had approach shoes, but I was in Makalu's, so no need to toss out your hikers! Â When we were looking in the summit register, we noticed a guy who had soloed the South Route several times (I believe it was Steve something), and had mentioned that he had done some of the flagging (thank him if you find him!). If I remember correctly, his car-to-summit time was 3:15 or 3:30. Â While driving away, we saw some guys standing on the side of the road, looking up at Garfield, and we stopped to talk. When I asked if they were checking out one of the Doorish routes, one of them said, "Well, actually I am Pete Doorish." Upon hearing this, one of his younger companions said, "Dude, you're famous!?" Â I went back the next weekend, with friend Mark, to try one of the South face routes. This time we got veritably spanked. We got about 2/3 of the way up the Central Gully (not even to the "base" of the climb), before giving up and making several rappels on the way down. The Central Gully was characterized by flat sections interspersed with fifth class steps. I've since wondered if there was any snow in it when Doorish did his routes (possibly burying some of the steep steps). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
remlec Posted October 1, 2002 Author Share Posted October 1, 2002 Thanks. Been scopin the route a couple of years before I knew about it and thought I could see a line. Just not sure if my partners could handle it. You've probably confirmed it but it's one awesome hunk of rock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CascadeClimber Posted October 1, 2002 Share Posted October 1, 2002 The two Doorish routes are in the updated CAG V1. Â Three hours to the summit. Damn. That is flat-out hauling ass. Nice job Colin & Co. We took eight hours and didn't dawdle, though we had some route-finding issues. Did you play in the 'dirt gully' or climb the rock to the right? Â -Loren Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backcountrydog Posted October 1, 2002 Share Posted October 1, 2002 i did the standard (south) rt a couple years ago in just over 5 hrs solo, round trip. that was hanging out on top enjoying the incredible views for half hour or so too. the 'hazardous enigma' wasnt quite what i thought it would be. there were other sub 3 hr summits from wht i remember too. i havent read too many summit register entries that i ever doubted...none in fact. ever known anyone to chant falsley in a register?? id go up there again to climb that leaning tower. real cool looking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CascadeClimber Posted October 1, 2002 Share Posted October 1, 2002 I suspect some the hazardous enigma value has been mitigated by liberal use of flagging tape and a pair of loppers. Â Did you solo down the gully or rap? It looked nasty loose to me, but maybe not? Â -Loren Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted October 1, 2002 Share Posted October 1, 2002 Whatever dude. It was hard. Now it's easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backcountrydog Posted October 3, 2002 Share Posted October 3, 2002 if u referring to me... that climb was definetly harder back in 'the day'. i was just a little disapointed that it wasnt harder. i didnt use a rope, the chimneys are an easy downclimb with good holds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeadam Posted December 3, 2002 Share Posted December 3, 2002 I recently was told about a new 24 pitch bolted route on the west tower reputed to be in the low .10's. The engineer was LW. Does anyone have information about this route? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted December 3, 2002 Share Posted December 3, 2002 If that's true I'll bet there's been some hazard removed from the enigma. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted December 3, 2002 Share Posted December 3, 2002 I heard the same story as Mike. Hey Mike: why don't you go out there and climb it and come back with the TR? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted December 3, 2002 Share Posted December 3, 2002 Good day for it! Probably about 2.5 hours of light left! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klenke Posted January 18, 2003 Share Posted January 18, 2003 Was reading Mr. Beckey's description of the North Route for the Main Peak of Garfield and was curious if any of you posters have been that way. Mr. B says it's a seldom used route. Since these always interest me to some degree, wondering what experiences some of you may have had. He says it's best done in early season when snow covers brush and fills the steep gully leading to the summit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobinc Posted January 19, 2003 Share Posted January 19, 2003 Check with estivate; he's spent a lot of time on that side getting intimate with the brush. Also, I think his website may be helpful: midforc.org or somesuch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klenke Posted January 19, 2003 Share Posted January 19, 2003 Thanks, Bob; some good info and pics in there. You are correct about the site name. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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