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chesterboo

Success Cleaver

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Considering this trip in June. Has anybody done this route and have information to share? Pics? I have read Becky's description as well as Mike's book. My search for trip reports is sparse. Seems like a long route and allot of work and just wondering if it is a worthwile undertaking. In past I have done the ID, DC and Emmons routes. Thank you for any information you folks may have. Jeff

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It is a long route and I think the principal reason people climb it is because it avoids glacier travel. I've known more than one climber select it for a solo climb for this reason. Later in the year, it has miles of scree.

 

Even at this time of year, I'd opt for something else. The Kautz Cleaver, just to the right, looks like a miniature Liberty Ridge and I've had my eye on it for a long time. For a longer, scenic route, I'd look at Tahoma Glacier. Tahoma Cleaver, too, looks like a good route that is rarely climbed.

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Thanks Matt, It just seems that reading Mike's book makes it sound like a neat alpine environment, devoid of crowds and with some cool exposure.

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It would definitely give you the feeling of being high up for a long time and it is one of the most prominent features on the mountain. I bet camping along the ridge would be pretty cool.

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I agree with Matt... I have looked at the ridge for a while now with the intention of attempting it solo sometime I can't find a partner for a trip. I think it looks like a pretty amazing route, and like you said, I think it would be pretty quite up there in terms of crowds. Chesterboo, you should go climb it, but don't post a tr cause then people may find out that it's cool! cantfocus.gifbigdrink.gif

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I may just do that sweatonliquor Last year coming down from the DC route I ran into a pair that just finished the cleaver and carried over. They were not too interested in talking about it or they were just really tired. That was in mid August.

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nobody has ventured up this cleaver lately? The lack of response makes me wonder about the route.

 

Patience... Patience...

 

People on this board seem to think that non-standard routes on Mount Rainier get climbed (or even attention) during the winter and spring (like neoday2 who was seeking specific/detailed info on Liberty Ridge). This is RARELY the case, as climbing ANY ROUTE on Rainier from Nov-through April is a HUGE endeavor for most parties, even stout ones. In 17 years, I can't recall anyone climbing either LR or SC in the winter or early spring... but my memory may be off, as I also thought the Federal Way REI was still open. grin.gif

 

To give you a sense of things, only 5 souls have summited Rainier since Nov 1 2005.

 

If your trip is in late June, you may get better research in early June. And if you don't get any info... oh well. I think that part of the joy in climbing is the exploration of the unknown (or at least the unknown to you). That said, Success Cleaver IS a great route and it sees FEW attempts. As Sweatinoutliquor said, GO FOR IT!

 

Mattp's suggestions are also great... BTW Matt, KC is definitely an early season route. Other than a little bit of glaicer, it's a lot like Success. You'll fly up it, it's not as tough as Lib, but certainly looks that way.

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To give you a sense of things, only 5 souls have summited Rainier since Nov 1 2005.

 

What a cool stat! A big thumbs_up.gif to you 5, and another thumbs_up.gif to those who have made the wise descision to let the mountain do it's own thing this snowy winter! Sorta chompin at the bit here, but I cant help thinking that the mountains need all the snow they can get.

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Thanks Mike, When I was saying that I did not think anybody had been up the SC 'lateley' I was kind of refering to within the last few years not this last winter. I tried to google some previous trip reports of that climb and did not find any. Oh well, it just adds to the intrigue for me. It looks like a good line. Do you think June is the best time? Can you go in from the west side road or should we go in at Kautz creek? smile.gif

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I've done this route only once, in early July of 2003. As you can see from the photos (larger versions available in the gallery), there was quite a bit of rock exposed then. I thought it was a fun objective anyway, and it should have more snow in June. We went in from the West Side Road and took three days. It really is a long route, with super cool views and few people. Worthwhile for sure!

 

Looking up the Cleaver from the top of Pyramid Peak

5292scleaver-med.jpg

 

Ridgecrest on left, Success Couloirs ahead and right

5292scouloirs-med.jpg

 

My dad carrying too much gear and pausing for a look down

5292chossfestival-med.jpg

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thanks Pandora for the pics. looks to be interesting route. what is the highest point you think you could carve out a platform for a small 2 man tent.

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thanks Pandora for the pics. looks to be interesting route. what is the highest point you think you could carve out a platform for a small 2 man tent.

 

Somewhere around 12,000'! It has been years, but when a partner and I climbed the Middle Finger on the Success Headwall we wound up camping near the top of the ridge. There are much better spots lower, say 10,000'

 

A note for Mike Gauthier - BTW, it's the Middle Finger, not the Central Couloir. smirk.gif

 

Jim

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thanks Jim, I was thinking around 10,500 was the last 'campground'. I did say that we wanted a flushing toilet didn't I. I heard that the restrooms at 10,500 were always kept clean with tissues, perfumes and mouthwash.

Seriously though, thanks for the beta. Jeff

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Jim,

Ken and I talked about your climb, I don't recall any mention of it being called the "Middle Finger," but thanks for pointing this out... It's easy to fix. grin.gif

Chester, you can carve out some nice bivy spots between 9,500 and 11,200. Yes, you could get something higher, but it's a lot more work to haul your equipment that high... And if you're doing that, you might as well take it to the top! thumbs_up.gifgrin.gif

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Jim,

Ken and I talked about your climb, I don't recall any mention of it being called the "Middle Finger," but thanks for pointing this out... It's easy to fix. grin.gif

Chester, you can carve out some nice bivy spots between 9,500 and 11,200. Yes, you could get something higher, but it's a lot more work to haul your equipment that high... And if you're doing that, you might as well take it to the top! thumbs_up.gifgrin.gif

 

How is this route to downclimb?

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Jim,

Ken and I talked about your climb, I don't recall any mention of it being called the "Middle Finger," but thanks for pointing this out... It's easy to fix. grin.gif

Chester, you can carve out some nice bivy spots between 9,500 and 11,200. Yes, you could get something higher, but it's a lot more work to haul your equipment that high... And if you're doing that, you might as well take it to the top! thumbs_up.gifgrin.gif

 

It sort of started out as an joke/unoficial name, but kind of stuck after we got done. Ken was probably just being modest, the name was his, as was the idea to do the climb.

 

Yeah it is a long ways up - and of course we hauled all of our stuff over the top and came down through Muir. Also a lot of work to dig a platform at that elevation, not a lot of room for a tent up that high! Ah but the view! Just watch that first step out of the tent in the morning! ooo.gif

 

Jim

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How is this route to downclimb?

 

It could be downclimbed I think, but it is a LONG route. I think it is better to pack light, carry over and descend either the Kautz or through Muir. Of course that leads to some issues with where to leave the car.

 

Jim

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