BillA Posted February 24, 2006 Posted February 24, 2006 Since I frostbit my toes this weekend and we're heading for colder climes in April, I'm thinking I'm going to be needing some new footwear. I've got a pair of the yellow Koflachs which are super warm, but really really heavy. Anyone know of any good light plastics that climb mixed terrain well and won't compromise my toes? Any advice is appreciated. Quote
JayB Posted February 24, 2006 Posted February 24, 2006 Dang man, sorry to hear about your toes. Hope they heal well. Given any thought to the Vasque Ice9000's? The Asolo Ottomilla's are pretty warm and light, but they're also pretty stiff, so I'm not sure that they'd be all that great for mixed stuff. Quote
Ade Posted February 24, 2006 Posted February 24, 2006 The Ice 9000s are no lighter than any other plastic, but for me they climbed a lot better than by Invernos. Quote
Cobra_Commander Posted February 24, 2006 Posted February 24, 2006 what were you climbing in when you frostbit your toes? How cold was your core temp? You were out for a long time in some cold conditions. Quote
Alpinfox Posted February 24, 2006 Posted February 24, 2006 Intuition liners are supposed to be the lightest AND warmest things you can put on your feet. Get some lightweight plastic shells and you are set. I've heard good things about the Lowa Civetta as a lightweight plastic shell that climbs well. Never worn them personally though. I've seen several pair at Second Ascent here in Seattle. You could check Next Adventure down in PDX (that's where you are from right?). What sort of rehab are you doing for the piggies? Circulating hot water baths? Quote
BillA Posted February 24, 2006 Author Posted February 24, 2006 I was wearing the Scarpa Freney XT. My core stayed fairly warm with my big parka, but all I had on my legs were a pair of medium weight long underwear pants, another pair of light synthetic pants and my softshell pants. I was absolutely kicking myself (literally) all night for not throwing insulated pants in. Anyway, as far as rehab goes at this point I'm making sure that I don't accidently cause any trauma to the tissue since they're still numb and I'm taking antibiotics. Other than that I think it's pretty much a time issue. Since they've blistered already, no more soaks. Thanks for the boot recommendations, the Ice 9000's sound pretty sweet. Also plan on checking out the Civetta/Intuition option. Thanks again! Quote
underworld Posted February 24, 2006 Posted February 24, 2006 Intuition liners are supposed to be the lightest AND warmest things you can put on your feet. Get some lightweight plastic shells and you are set. I've heard good things about the Lowa Civetta as a lightweight plastic shell that climbs well. Never worn them personally though. I've seen several pair at Second Ascent here in Seattle. great combo!! i've got this now for a while and those boots do climb good. they have fairly small footprint so they aren't as clunky. (actually have to size down my crampons from my leathers (scarpa cerro torres)) good luck Quote
willstrickland Posted February 24, 2006 Posted February 24, 2006 Intuition liners in a pair of Scarpa Alphas. My feet tend to get cold pretty easily, but never in these, even up here. They're also a good pound or more lighter than the Scarpa Invernos I had prior to these, and they have a lower profile and climb better as well. The key is the thermoform liners (Intuition or equiv., which are WAY WAY overpriced IMO). Good luck. Quote
Alpinfox Posted February 24, 2006 Posted February 24, 2006 The key is the thermoform liners (Intuition or equiv., which are WAY WAY overpriced IMO). Hopefully your size? Size 8, 9, or 10 Intuition liners $30. Quote
BillA Posted February 25, 2006 Author Posted February 25, 2006 Damn, unfortunately I wear size 11.5 or 12, that's a good deal... Quote
Dan_Miller Posted February 25, 2006 Posted February 25, 2006 (edited) I ran across these the other day whilst surfing the web. La Sportiva Spantik with Fast Lacing System 38-47 by half PU Tech Coated Breneke Ceracom, molded TPU backstay, PE microcellular insulating form, Lorica 5 mm thermal structure carbon fiber w/ thermo alumimum TPU dual density Micropore EVA Vibram Montagna step-In compatable Micro-perforated Thermo-formable PE w/ water-repellent Lorica w/ Antiacqua aCoating 5 lb 1 oz A,E 650.00 Purportedly, per La Sportiva's and Alaska Mountaineering (www.alaskamountaineering.com) and Hiking's web sites they are quite toasty, reasonably light and precise climbers. They may just be worth a 'look see.' A little quick research reveals that Telemark Pyrenees has them for: 358.70 EUR Euro = 426.010 USD United States Dollars Anyone have any more info or personal experience with these quite pricey bad boys? Edited February 26, 2006 by Dan_Miller Quote
andrewbanandrew Posted February 26, 2006 Posted February 26, 2006 Andy Kirkpatrick did a review of em. Check psychovertical.com Quote
Jedi Posted February 26, 2006 Posted February 26, 2006 I have a pair of Alpha's with Intuition liners. They weigh 74oz Size 9. They are a snug fit so they climb GREAT. BUT, if it is cold out, my feet get cold easily. Should have a 9.5 for cold days. I tried the Spantik on last weekend. They only had a 43 (size 10) in stock. A 42.5 would be a better fit but I did not have a good insole in the 43 so I dunno. The laces are wicked thin. One handed lacing, on cold mornings, with gloves would be nice with these boots. I reallly like the boot and at 81oz, it looks like it my next boot. The Ice 9000 are about 11oz heavier (listed weight) but A LOT cheaper. It's all about the fit so I'll have to see. Scott Backes wore the Ice 9000 to the summit of Denali, with no overboots and had no problems so they be pretty warm. Granted, the weather was probably pretty good (Denali good). I think Mt Gear has them only sale real cheap. Andy seemed to like the Spantik http://www.lyon.co.uk/outdoors/showitem.asp?Id=445 I have a buddy who recovered from frostbite on his toes. It took a while but years later, he really does not have any issues when ice climbing. Jedi Quote
marcus Posted February 26, 2006 Posted February 26, 2006 If you're rich: LaSportiva's Spantik is hella warm, and much lighter than their Nuptse. It climbs mixed terrain as well as any double boot can - better than the Koflach or Vasque boots. If you're on a budget: Intuition liners are the way to go, though you'll need a slightly smaller shell. What size are your feet? I have some ~12.5 US Koflach Verticals available... Quote
Nick Posted February 27, 2006 Posted February 27, 2006 Amen to the Scarpa Alphas. I have the original, slightly heavier, liners and these are warm light boots that climb well. Warm enough for the Cascades anyhow. You can walk a long way in them as well. Drinking a lot of water is also important to avoid getting frostbite, particularly on multi-day trips. Quote
BillA Posted February 28, 2006 Author Posted February 28, 2006 The Spantik sounds sweet, thank god for prodeal though...anyone know if any shops in Portland carry them? Quote
kurthicks Posted February 28, 2006 Posted February 28, 2006 The Spantik sounds sweet, thank god for prodeal though...anyone know if any shops in Portland carry them? that's unethical for a few reasons. shame on you. Quote
BillA Posted February 28, 2006 Author Posted February 28, 2006 Come on now! What is one supposed to do? I might not even be able to prodeal them... Quote
kurthicks Posted February 28, 2006 Posted February 28, 2006 order them from REI, if they can get them, and return them once you find a size that fits... oh, I'm not 100% satisfied. Quote
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