Xcott Posted May 28, 2002 Share Posted May 28, 2002 Trying to figure out how big a group of medium-to-experienced climbers can efficiently get up this route in the second week of July. Beckey's info on this one is a bit thin, and after reading the entry in "Selected Climbs" Vol. 2, I'd like to appreciate any input on these questions: - Just how sharp does the team need to be to simul-climb all of the first 4 pitches? 5.??, gotchas, exposure, whatever. - On the south face rappel route, "Selected" say "2-3 easy rappels". What makes the difference; a 60m vs. 50m rope? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted May 28, 2002 Share Posted May 28, 2002 CLIMB IS REALLY LEDGY YOU COULD PROBABLY GET LIKE 100-150 PEOPLE ON THE ROUTE AT ONE TIME.....THE CRUX IS TRIVIAL....... DONT RAP THE S SIDE ROUTE....HEAD W AND DOWN CLIMB...... DONT RAP THE S FACE ROUTE...... ROUTES TAKES LIKE 30 MINUTES..... IT IS VERY FUN WITH SOLID ROCK, CEPT IN THE APPRIACH GULLY....WATCH DOES FINGERS... BETTER OPTION IS TO START FORM LAKE AND LINK ALL 3 SUMMITS IN A DAY....MUCH FUN LIKE 6 HRS RT FROM CAR WITH A PHAT LUNCH..... ENJOY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted May 28, 2002 Share Posted May 28, 2002 This peak suffers from Gumbyitis. Everything including descents are easy and obvious. Go fer it. [ 05-28-2002, 09:44 AM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alasdair Posted May 28, 2002 Share Posted May 28, 2002 climbed this route with someone with very little experience last summer in close to zero visiblity and rain and had no problems. More importanly there was no one else on the peak, not even mountaineers groups. If you have climbed the tooth you can climb this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PDXClimber Posted May 28, 2002 Share Posted May 28, 2002 my wife and i had fun on this route as it was one of our first alpine climbs. avoid going right on the first pitches to a set of anchors up traverse on right - this will give you more excitement than you might want... fun ridge climbing and crux is easier than it looks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xcott Posted May 31, 2002 Author Share Posted May 31, 2002 Thanks to all for your advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted July 5, 2002 Share Posted July 5, 2002 looking for current beta, and "hints" for making it a solo event. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highclimb Posted July 5, 2002 Share Posted July 5, 2002 go for it...the route is very straight foreward and if your comfortable with your abilities at that grade i am sure youll have no problem....crux is not commiting...its about 7-10 feet high. for the rest of the ridge its low 5th class....but this route is really fun. really fun...i am never going up the south face again...but shh dont spread the word to the mounties. Aidan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted July 6, 2002 Share Posted July 6, 2002 thanks! also ... how's the snow? for the descent, should i bring a rope to rappel out? about how long of a drive is it from seattle? where might i camp if i drive down the night before? what can/"should" i do the next day if i'm not ready to go home yet? thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted July 6, 2002 Share Posted July 6, 2002 quote: Originally posted by thelawgoddess: what can/"should" i do the next day if i'm not ready to go home yet? West Ridge of either Stuart or Sherpa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted July 6, 2002 Share Posted July 6, 2002 quote: Originally posted by thelawgoddess: looking for current beta, and "hints" for making it a solo event. As someone said earlier, the route has lots of ledges. There are many spots that if you fell you wouldn't ride the range (but you'd be pretty messed up). And lawgoddess, if you do chose to solo, downclimbing the south face is quicker than downclimbing from the west (I've done both with the stopwatch running.). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headmasterjon_dup1 Posted July 6, 2002 Share Posted July 6, 2002 Snoop's got it right. Link up all three (East, North, and South Ingalls) Peter Croft style (in fact this is the original ridge traverse that started his ridge fix!) As of June 20th there is much snow above 4500ft, and the lake is frozen over. Bring skis if you don't mind the xtra weight and ski the excellent corn below the south peak. Or enjoy the long glissade back to camp. And beware of speeding soloists! quote: thanks! also ... how's the snow? for the descent, should i bring a rope to rappel out? about how long of a drive is it from seattle? where might i camp if i drive down the night before? what can/"should" i do the next day if i'm not ready to go home yet? thanks again! You should be able to downclimb the South Ridge if you're comfortable soloing the East Ridge. 1.5 hrs from Seattle. There's maybe 2 FS Campgrounds up the Teanaway River Valley, also a private Campground, and many pull-outs along the road. Paraglide back over the Crest riding the thermals to Seattle and touch down in Lake Washington near Madrona Beach, where a handsome young lifeguard will rescue you. Climb mountains, and get their good tidings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headmasterjon_dup1 Posted July 6, 2002 Share Posted July 6, 2002 doops! [ 07-05-2002, 11:55 PM: Message edited by: headmasterjon ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted July 6, 2002 Share Posted July 6, 2002 quote: Originally posted by headmasterjon: [...] Link up all three (East, North, and South Ingalls) Peter Croft style (in fact this is the original ridge traverse that started his ridge fix!) [...] You should be able to downclimb [...] ooh, you don't know how much i DETEST downclimbing!!! but thanks, everyone, for the suggestions and whatnot. i'm definitely going to consider going croft-style. i'm pretty psyched for my impending adventure! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted July 6, 2002 Share Posted July 6, 2002 just curious if any of you have gone in through esmerelda basin to the pass that overlooks lake ann and gone over to ingalls from there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis_Harmon Posted July 7, 2002 Share Posted July 7, 2002 Don't go up there! It is too high and you will fall off and die and your mother will cry. Dennis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted July 7, 2002 Share Posted July 7, 2002 if i have to die somewhere, i guess there could be worse places. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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