Keeping Coul

[jrwclimbs]

Anyone been up ANY of the couloirs or faces in the Colchuck/Dragontail vicinity in the last 2 weeks? Also, any beta on topping out of Col's NE Couloir?

Thanks

 

Jeremy

[DPS]

NE Couloir beta: Near the top when the couloir forks, go left. Here is a good description:

 

http://www.mountainwerks.org/alexk/climb/TRNEButtressCouloir.htm

[Cpt.Caveman]

Watch for warming trends.

[MountainMan]

I was in the Colchuck Col this weekend 18MAY02 ... conditions were very soft ... camped at 7000' and got rained on. I climbed to the col with snowshoes on -- no crampons needed. I don't know what kind of information you're looking for, but if you were to head up there now (aside from ordinary mountaineering obstacles) I can't see anything preventing you from summitting.

 

DEFINITELY bring snowshoes for the approach .. I postholed up to my neck several times on the approach (even with snowshoes).

 

[ 05-23-2002, 02:42 PM: Message edited by: MountainMan ]

[JasonG]

Dan-it looks like from drawing on the link that you didn't go all the way to the very top of the main couloir on your first try (left a bit below the summit). Or am I looking at the drawing wrong?? Last year I was on the summit and looked down on the rock step immediately below the summit (I didn't think it looked too bad at the time). But, it sounds like you guys had a hell of a time trying to get past it. I guess I'm wondering if I was looking at the same rock step that thwarted you guys. My only reason for being so particular (other than I'm a dork) is that I'm thinking of heading up there this weekend to give it a go if things get cold and freeze. Thanks.

[jrwclimbs]

Heinie!? Will Hans be there, too, or the wife to be?!?!

[Alex]

Dan-it looks like from drawing on the link that you didn't go all the way to the very top of the main couloir on your first try (left a bit below the summit).

 

Basically, high on the face all the couloir options run out. We followed the path of least resistance initially, but even that necked down and got pretty damn steep and ended it a 10-15 ft sloping rock chimney. Not alot of positive holds there. With a little more snow it might have been casual, but it was bare and not easily passable. We didnt see any easier way from that point, though with less snow and perhaps some rock shoes some of the options would be completely probable.

 

But, it sounds like you guys had a hell of a time trying to get past it. I guess I'm wondering if I was looking at the same rock step that thwarted you guys.

 

Maybe so, maybe not...?

 

My only reason for being so particular (other than I'm a dork) is that I'm thinking of heading up there this weekend to give it a go if things get cold and freeze.

 

You might have a tough time topping out. Basically, if you try the way we went successfully, and there isnt any ice over the WI 2+ ice step, you might get shut down. It was very thin ice even in the middle of winter, I dont know what its like now with a high freezing level. If you try the variation that we initially backed off of, you might get higher, but its hard to say. Certainly with drier rock and no crampons on you might get past it.

 

Alex

[mattp]

Heinrick -

 

I think that Alex actually mis-marked the photo and that the exit gully we used is actually up and right from that shown by the line on my photo. However, I drew this to his attention and Alex is sticking with his ID of our exit couloir. You'll have to go up there and find out for yourself where the best exit is.

[Matt]

quote:

---

Originally posted by MountainMan:

I was in the Colchuck Col this weekend 18MAY02 ... conditions were very soft ... camped at 7000' and got rained on. I climbed to the col with snowshoes on -- no crampons needed. I don't know what kind of information you're looking for, but if you were to head up there now (aside from ordinary mountaineering obstacles) I can't see anything preventing you from summitting.

 

DEFINITELY bring snowshoes for the approach .. I postholed up to my neck several times on the approach (even with snowshoes).

---

What were the skiing conditions on the glacier like?

[DPS]

Alex, MattP,

 

I am wondering if the exit is not mismarked as well. I think our route is actually not visible in the photo. I thought we topped out farther to the right than what Alex depicted.

[Juan]

Jeremy:

 

Doug Walker and I climbed the NBC on Colchuck this past Sunday. Not as hard as the NE Couloir, but likely safer in warm temps, which we had. A couple thoughts on the above comments:

 

You don't need snow shoes or skis any more. Just take ski poles. The lake is not safe to cross any more, from what we could see.

 

All of the couloirs were releasing this weekend. Pick your line carefully, particularly if it doesn't freeze.

 

We didn't need crampons, and neither did I when I did the same route two years ago. Take them, but you might not need them. Two tools are helpful for plunging.

 

There is plenty of rotten snow; sometimes you have to fish around for something to stand on.

 

Have fun and be safe.

 

John Sharp