Sleeveless Posted May 21, 2002 Posted May 21, 2002 Current route conditions on Prussik? Is rock clear of snow? etc .. TIA [ 06-05-2002, 11:05 PM: Message edited by: Sleeveless ] Quote
Skisports Posted May 21, 2002 Posted May 21, 2002 Summited the west ridge this past friday, some of the cracks have snow on them and there was snow mainly on the 2nd to the last pitch... When you rap off there is alot of snow on the way back if you have very icy conditions might considered bring an ice ax to the top. Couple of us almost pitched do to the shear ice and semi-steep slope Quote
Sleeveless Posted June 5, 2002 Author Posted June 5, 2002 Any one been up W Ridge recently? If so, how's the route conditions and approach? TIA E Quote
TimL Posted June 5, 2002 Posted June 5, 2002 Anybody been up the S. Face yet? Is there still a lot of snow on the descent? Quote
Highlander Posted June 11, 2002 Posted June 11, 2002 Just to bring this to the top. Anybody been up Prussik or in the area lately. If so how does the South Face look. Quote
Greg_W Posted June 11, 2002 Posted June 11, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Highlander: Just to bring this to the top. Anybody been up Prussik or in the area lately. If so how does the South Face look. Hey Highlander, aren't you supposed to be molding young minds? Is this what we get with our tax dollars: teachers cruising the 'net during school hours? Greg Quote
Highlander Posted June 11, 2002 Posted June 11, 2002 Greg, this is my planing period, so I am planning climbing trips. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 11, 2002 Posted June 11, 2002 It looks like bomber granite. Even better than Yosemite Granite You'll die in the chimney I certainly know some people have been climbingon the West Ridge as of a month ago though [ 06-11-2002, 09:45 AM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ] Quote
erik Posted June 11, 2002 Posted June 11, 2002 i talked to some dude on sunday who said he climbed the s face last(?) week or the one before. said it was great fun!!! who care what conditions are, i bet you can still climb it. aid on baby!!!! Quote
Greg_W Posted June 11, 2002 Posted June 11, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Highlander: Greg, this is my planing period, so I am planning climbing trips. Speaking for this taxpayer, I think that is an admirable use of your time. Hope we can hook up and I can benefit from your "planning period." Greg Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 11, 2002 Posted June 11, 2002 quote: Originally posted by erik: i talked to some dude on sunday who said he climbed the s face last(?) week or the one before. said it was great fun!!! who care what conditions are, i bet you can still climb it. aid on baby!!!! I care what the conditoins are. I dont want to climb in fucking snot covered rock aka water running down cracks that are rated 5.9 OW or chimney. I hate aid climbing. Did I mention that? Duh Quote
erik Posted June 11, 2002 Posted June 11, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Greg W: [/qb] Speaking for this taxpayer, I think that is an admirable use of your time. Hope we can hook up and I can benefit from your "planning period." Greg[/QB] wait 9 months!! Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 11, 2002 Posted June 11, 2002 What if I wanted to climb the Beckey Davis How are you going to aid the 5.8 no pro chimney on that Quote
Greg_W Posted June 11, 2002 Posted June 11, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: What if I wanted to climb the Beckey Davis How are you going to aid the 5.8 no pro chimney on that Pull a David Blaine and levitate up it. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 11, 2002 Posted June 11, 2002 There is a variation out right but I wanna send the no pro chimney that Beckey and Davis did Quote
erik Posted June 11, 2002 Posted June 11, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: What if I wanted to climb the Beckey Davis How are you going to aid the 5.8 no pro chimney on that how to aid a chimmeny with no pro by erik part one: partner selection a. you want a small one b. you want one that doesn't know any better part two: the climb a. you divide up the pitches b. if that doesn't work(multiple suckiness) offer to lead them all c. place partner securley in chimmeny, girth hitch them and climb as per chockstone technique. body jam again and repeat process. this might not work for all partners, especially ones bigger or meaner then one's self. tough sometimes a partner with a substantial beer gut also makes excellent fixed gear as well. also with the orientation of the s face it recieves more direct sunlight and therefore should be snow free much quick then say the back side aka: the north face would be... Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 11, 2002 Posted June 11, 2002 That's called trying to see conditions from your couch. Although I can agree with the logic. I have gut jammed that chimney. It's fun. There actually is one peice to get but it's behind an expanding flake that will probably pull out if you fall on it anyway Quote
Dru Posted June 11, 2002 Posted June 11, 2002 How To Aid Up a No Pro Chimney. 1) take a large selection of horsecock. 2) at base of chimney, size up horsecock. if it is big enough, 3) use it as tied off tube chocks in the chimney 4) if it is not big enough, use it as snafflehound bait 5) whjen you have caught about 20 snafflehounds, harness them up using prussik cord 6) send your snafflehound dog team up the chimney and get them to pull you up. 7) eat horsecock (share some with snafflehounds if you used them) and continue climbing. 8) write gapewad TR about your mastery of chimney climbing and how you were scared of cougars carrying all that horsecock around with you. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 11, 2002 Posted June 11, 2002 I would bait the snafflehounds with cheese. Make sure it is 3 weeks old Quote
Greg_W Posted June 11, 2002 Posted June 11, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: ...use it as tied off tube chocks in the chimney... Would that be a "tube-steak chock" or a "tube-steak tube chock" or just a "tube chock"? Quote
Greg_W Posted June 11, 2002 Posted June 11, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: If you find horsecock booty is that 'tubey'? Only if you find some 'lubey' along with it! Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 17, 2002 Posted June 17, 2002 Prusik Peak is in fine shape. A little snow getting in there and some on the descent. Routes are snow free. S Face climbed and West Ridge soloed by texan I prusiked to the top of the monument again. Pretty fun. Quote
Crackhead Posted June 17, 2002 Posted June 17, 2002 I hear that the south face is a sandbag... is this true? I've done the west ridge, and the south side looked over hanging from above. Quote
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