jasonbloker Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 ok al need some input here I have gone up hood southside sevral times by my self but I want to start doing more technical stuff and some rope team stuff so I would love to get some input on equipment I need for a starting rack and recomended ropes....I have a seat harness do you recomend a chest harness as well? have a mountainerring ice axe what do you sugest in the way of an ice tool? have sabertooth crampons... any slightly more technical routes you can sugest that would be a big step up from the south side of hood? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriznitch Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 grab some glacier gear and a partner and start thinking about routes like: -Mazama Glacier (Adams) -Emmons (Rainier) -Leuthold Couloir (hood) -Sunshine (Hood) -Baker plus you are prolly ready to solo these with minimal gear: -Thielsen -Broken Top -South & Middle Sis -Adams south side -St Helens Then when you get good try: -Mt Jefferson (JPG) -Kautz Glacier -North Sis -North Cascades! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweatinoutliquor Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 For a second tool get something with a hammer rather than an adze. If you think that there is a chance that you may at some point want to get into more technical ice climbing, then consider getting the hammer version of a nice tool set (example petzl quark or aztar with hammer). It's gonna be more expensive for a nice technical tool, but then if you do choose to try some 2 tool climbing, you only have to pay for the other one, rather than a whole set. Chriz's route suggestions are great! Lot's o' people say that curved shaft tools aren't idea for alpine stuff cause the shafts don't plunge as well as a straight tool, but I have found that my quark plunges quite well, and in general, if I'm climbing softer stuff where I'm doing a lot of plunging, the second tool isn't out so much. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtveld Posted January 28, 2006 Share Posted January 28, 2006 (edited) Before you get out onto some of the glacier routes mentioned above (great list BTW), you should get some basic glacier travel instruction beforehand. Not sure what is available in PDX these days, but the parks & rec program might have a cheap option as do guide services if you have the $. Same advice for getting started on rock - start with some expert instruction. Mentors are great too if you can find one. Edited January 28, 2006 by curtveld Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 did you see sandpounders post on this thread? Moe Zammas Mazamas are a great place to figure out how to be safe. Sounds like you may want to skip the basic class and do the intermediate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonbloker Posted February 3, 2006 Author Share Posted February 3, 2006 yeah and thank you all for your input very helpful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted February 3, 2006 Share Posted February 3, 2006 Don't overlook the possibility of buying a used ice tool at a great savings. You'll pay a premium for whatever folks are thinking is the shizzle right now, but just about any ice too with a hammer head will be sufficient to hammer in a picket once in a while, scratch you way over a bergschrund, or lean on in an icy gully somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skykilo Posted February 4, 2006 Share Posted February 4, 2006 That's good advice Matt. I also recommend straight-shafted ice tools if you find them for sale used. They're a very nice compromise between performance of today's true ice gear and the benefits of being able to plunge the shaft of the ax to greater effect (which it is so often nice to do in the Cascades). Now I have a small question, Matt. Would you ever say 'shizzle' in conversation? I'm just curious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squid Posted February 4, 2006 Share Posted February 4, 2006 fo' shizzle, my dizzle. Matt-p is OG, he's down with OPP, comin' to ya straight outa' Wedgewood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted February 4, 2006 Share Posted February 4, 2006 life begins at 10,000 feet... Only a 1100' odd feet of life in Oregon eh? Do you just want to climb volcanos? Cuz here's a little secret for you: walking up volcanoes gets really old really quickly. It might impress your parents and your cubicle-mates, but the thrill fades pretty quickly. Look into learning some rock climbing skills and get some gear and then combine mountains+technical climbing. It's fun. Real fun - but your parents and your cubicle-mates won't be impressed because they have never heard of Mt. Stuart, Mt. Goode, Liberty Bell, etc. If you don't have any friends that do it, and that can teach you, then one of those groups might be an OK way to start. Here is another factoid: The best alpine climbing in Oregon is in Washington. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.