N Ridge Stuart

[Kalun_D]

Has anyone done the complete N Ridge of Stuart recently? Was wondering if it's snow free yet.

thanks, regards, Kalun D

[DPS]

[This message has been edited by danielpatricksmith (edited 07-10-2001).]

[This message has been edited by danielpatricksmith (edited 07-10-2001).]

[Lambone]

Hey yall...

I was wondering if anyone had recomendations for footwear on the North Ridge?

I am thinking about light hikers w/strap-ons and carrying light climbing shoes. Its that or do the whole thing in my big ass boots.

What have you had luck with, or what sucked?

Thanks, matt

[Gerg]

I don't think a strap-on will help you climb Stuart. Maybe a 00?

[This message has been edited by Gerg (edited 07-10-2001).]

[erik]

bone,

if you use strap on crampons you should be cool, but i don't think that your special toy should go into the b/c. though you might use it to protect the gendarme offwidth.

and the ligtest boot, that your crampons will fit work best....and of course rock shoes...make you climb supa' fast.

[Lambone]

Funny.... I guess it would be pretty hard in a cast too!! I think I'll leave the 00 behind...

[Gerg]

They put me in a hard bottom shoe, not a cast. It too is just a strap-on. Think I could get someone to put some sticky rubber on it?

[Kalun_D]

lambone

""I was wondering if anyone had recomendations for footwear on the North Ridge?""

Going to use the same thing that I did on NE buttress of Slesse. "guide almighty" rock shoe/hiker in one. 2 little pieces of blue insolite pad stuffed in the heels (tighter fit) for the technical stuff(up to 5.9). Pull out the foam for the trail. No axe no crampons. Short stick carved to a point will get to the base (and left there).

 

[bobinc]

Matt-- when we did that route yrs ago in Sept, I recall we didn't really need crampons. An ultralight ice axe sounds a little better than a sharpened stick... but you should be fine as long as you're a good judge of wood. I like the Guide Almighty idea; something like the Garmont Kevlar Climber would also be great.

[verticalturtle]

Without an axe (2 actually) and crampons my partner and I would have missed out on a cool 3 pitches of ice variation to the upper ridge.

Something to think about...

[Tod]

I doubt there is much snow at the base of the North Ridge proper. With how soft the snow has been, you probably won't need an ice axe or anything for your feet other than Regular hiking shoes or boots.

I believe that when I went up there we were just wearing light hikers and brought rock shoes for the steeper sections.

I like the idea of the "guide almighty" rock shoe/hiker in one....

Tod

[none_dup1]

I was up the W Ridge Sunday. I did not see any snow on the upper N Ridge. I saw someone summit solo via the N. Ridge but I was still just approaching the summit block so I did not speak with him. I had to cross very little snow on the W. Ridge. I wore low top hikers and used my ice axe to descend the snow at the top of Cascadian colour. The snow on Cascadian colour was soft enough to arrest using your hands if you don't want to carry an ice axe. Solo, car to car, one day.

[Kalun_D]

Success on complete N ridge of Stuart. Not willing to repeat. Extreme mental testpiece (for me anyway). Right from the start it was bad sign city, the altimeter read 6660 at the base (I'm not making this up). Teetering blocks and chopper flakes, all sizes, on more than 1/2 the pitches, although the rock on everything above mid 5th was generally sound and good pro . 7th pitch on direct start got to the belay and didn't like it because it included a 500lb loose block so belayed off route to the right. Jim led up and the rope kicked a head sized rock loose and it smashed right on the loose block, which luckily for possible parties below remained in place. Choice bivy where regular route meets ridge, perfect sunset. Mountain rats hopping on bivy sack all night (2hrs sleep). 1/2 hour after we started from bivy, rain started 2 ridges over east and north, and it was dumping in the icicle. I wanted retreat, Jim wanted to continue, I decided what the hey, besides we'd just passed a nice cave. Rain stayed close for 3 hours and brushed us on the 4th pitch off the bivy but then finally receded northwards (sigh of relief). The gendarme was best, guide almighty's were just good enough. The belay above the 2nd pitch had a gigantic detached flake right above it. I didn't notice it till Jim pointed it out on lead, luckily he was able to climb around it. We summited about 2pm and signed the register.

We had planned on a west ridge descent but didn't want to put our necks back in the noose so took

the cascadian couloir. Bataan death march time. Got to the bottom of the couloir (5000ft descent) and

was at the end of my endurance (2 hrs sleep at bivy, only 1 power bar all day, and over the hill). Still had a 2000ft climb over longs pass and back down to the trailhead. I wanted to bivy again, but Jim wanted to go back that night, apparently afraid he was going to turn into a pumpkin. When we made it to the car I felt like one of those ironman triathletes that collapses at the line. Apparently the rangers do give out 50.00 tickets for not having a trail pass...oh well.

The route is in great shape, didn't have to cross any snow on the climb although there is small pockets of snow here and there including the bivy where the regular route joins. The upper section bypass around the gendarm has some snow and wet rock but did look doable. The approach and descent snow was just right for kicking steps, crampons would have just balled up, hardly even needed the stick I took to the base. The direct start makes the climb quite a lot harder. It's 12 pitches with 1550ft vert gain compared to the upper 15 pitches with 1200ft vert(from where the shortcut joins) . Nelson shows 18 pitches, regular route to summit but we did it in 15 with a 60m rope. We hauled the 2nd pitch from the base (squeeze slot) and the 2 gendarme pitches. It was easy hauling as they were steep, clean, and less than 30m. Several good bivies all along the route. I would say it would be good to be confident in your simul climbing abilities. We were not and it slowed us down somewhat. The biggest pro we had was a 3 camalot and it worked on the off width above the gendarme (1 good fixed piece also). We both were able to fist jam this ow. We never saw the 4" cracks (Becky) on the lower section, we may have done a "variation" for a couple of pitches.

 

[Lambone]

Nice job Kalun, congradulations on a successful climb! Thanks for the beta.

How come only two hours of sleep? Was it cold, or were the picas botherin' ya? Take it easy! -Lambone

[Billy]

Kalun D-

Which approach strategy did you use? In from the south? And how long was the whole trip?

[Kalun_D]

Lambone,

Thanks for the congrats. Laid down for 8hrs but only 2 hrs. sleep cause

too old to get comfortable on a thermarest

mosquitos whining

rats and picas jumping on bivy sack

stress/adrenaline

bivied on the summit a few years ago. I think there's a hierarchy. First come the rats and after they're satisfied there's no food then come the picas. This time I didn't bother trying to nail them with rocks.

I was never cold although my partner was a little, he forgot his polypro bottoms.

I damn sure am taking it easy for at least a week.

 

[This message has been edited by Kalun D (edited 07-13-2001).]

[Kalun_D]

Billy,

approach from south, Teanaway Rd. over goat pass and across and under the stuart glacier to base of ridge

left trailhead 5:30am wed back to car 10pm thur. Too much vertical footage, not enough time. When your mind makes a promise that your body can't keep.

[Billy]

Kalun D-

Sounds like you did well! So, where were the bivies? Did you make it in to the base and then climb all the way to the notch in one long day? Then do the upper ridge and descent and the hike out in a second long day? If so.. you are man!

[Kalun_D]

Billy, the best bivy's were at the notch, about 6 to 8 , some still snow covered. Ours were on west side of ridge so evening sun. There were several good bivy's all along the route including a good cave about 3 pitches above the notch.

day 1 depart trailhead 5:30am wed to base of ridge and climb 1500ft to notch bivy by 7pm

day 2 depart bivy 6:30am climb 1200ft to summit by 2pm down cascadian couloir to car by 10pm

I would NEVER do this in 2 days again. Both times I climbed Stuart before I took 3 days. I should have known better. It makes the difference between enjoyable and sort of like fun but not. My partner wasn't hurting like I was though, so I guess it depends on your conditioning.

[This message has been edited by Kalun D (edited 07-14-2001).]

[Billy]

Kalun D-

Did you need boots/ice axe/ or crampons to get down the Glacier? Was that a big deal or no problem?

Also- were you able to get water from snow patches all along the way?

Thanks!

[Kalun_D]

Billy, approach and descent snow was casual,one pair of shoes the whole way, 5.10 guide almighty. no axe or crampons. pointed stick picked up along the way on the approach although didn't really need, found another smaller stick at the summit for the descent again didn't really need. Got lucky and found a small pool below a snowpatch the evening of the bivy, scooped water with the cap of water bottle, got 3 qts, pool was gone in the morning. wouldn't count on it. There will probably be snow pockets along the route especially at the notch bivy for at least a few more weeks.